Matheran Hill station near Mumbai

The above image is of a panoramic view of M A T H E R A N Echo Point

Sushil Ojha (63) of Dehradun Travels from Nashik to Matheran hill Station near Mumbai

On 22nd Sept 2010(Wednesday)

It was very auspicious day of Ganesh Murty Visharjan.

05:00 am : Started by car self driven by my son-in-law Sgt Peeyush Mishra from his residence at Air Force Station Ojhar MIG to near by Ojhar town SRTC bus stand.

05:30 am : Travelled about 25 km by state bus (fare Rs30) from Ojhar reaching Nashik Rd railway station by 06.25 am and from booking counter, purchased train ticket, Senior Citizen fare Rs 38, to travel 134 km to Kalyan by 07.00 am super fast Panchvati Express

07:10 am : Unlike on other days, today being Holiday, there was no huge rush of daily passengers travelling / commuting to Mumbai by this super fast train from Manmad. Over a cup of coffee, offered by co- passenger, also going to Kalyan to see off his Thane based daughter, grand daughter and son in law flying to US, we exchanged information about each other. He was a Chemical Science post graduate running his own small scale industry in Nashik supplying dye to Mumbai and other states.

Thus I reached Kalyan Rly Stn by 09:30 am

09:48 am : We walked together to the booking counter, stood in our queue, purchased our respective local train tickets ( fare Rs 9 for my ticket to Neral stn ).

10.00 am : Travelled 33 km from Kalyan to Neral by CST Mumbai- Karjat local train.

10.35 am : Reached Neral Stn after passing through Vithalvadi,Ullasnagar,Ambarnath, Badlapur, Vangari, Shelu. After Neral, next and last station was Karjat(on Pune route)

Curious to experience the toy train here, I made a round of Neral – Matheran meter gauge hill railway station and noticed the following time table displayed near booking window:

Train No.

Neral

Matheran

Train No.

Matheran

Neral

601

07.30

09.30

602

07.00

08.45

603

08.50

11.10

604

09.45

11.25

605

10.15

12.10

606 $$

13.40

15.20

607 $

12.15

14.05

608

14.45

16.25

609

17.05

19.00

610

16.25

18.10

$ only on Sat, Sun and holidays $$ Daily

Reserved seats 30 ( fare Rs 35 ) Unreserved seats 60 ( fare Rs 20 )

NB : Contact Station Manager for train timings during Monsoon season

I checked my watch and today being a holiday, started waiting for next train at 12.15 but in the mean time, just casually walked into the Station Manager’s cabin and was sadly surprised to find out that services of this hill train remain closed during Monsoon from 15th June to 14th October. However, he was very helpful in explaining the train schedules and how to book tickets wef 15th October. He also suggested that once I have come here, I must experience the road travel also. So I walked up to the nearby Taxi stand.

11.15 am : Occupied in Maruti Van taxi, front seat and paid Rs 60 as against Rs 120 fare for two passengers because one local Muslim youth sat between me and taxi driver.

During interactions, this co passenger apprised me that on this hill station, the hotel accommodation is not available to single persons. However, he suggested his relative’s Muskan Cottage, where by giving his reference; I may be accommodated @ rentals 300

11.35 am : After just 20 minutes up hill drive seeing scenic beauty- point views- water falls-deep valley below looking Neral town.

The uphill ghat road had hair pin turns at steep heights, where I saw mandatory sign boards for the drivers to use 1st gear only. Our taxi driver also kept changing to 1st gear every now and then.

A view of hair pin ghat road Matheran

Matheran is connected to the town of Neral which lies at the base of the hills. A tar road connects Neral to Dasturi Naka which is 9 km (5.8 miles) from Matheran.

11.45 am : After reaching Dasturi Naka parking place and paying entry fees Rs 25, I traversed carrying my back pack luggage in bag, through thick forest roads from this point towards Matheran hill by walk

. Matheran Entrance

Some others had hired coolies / ponies / rikshaws-hand pushed & pulled by total 3 men

After a short walk I noticed that some others were taking the railway track side and few were

on katcha road. I also chose to walk along rail track under shady trees, taking rest sometimes. A view of Dasturi Naka

Matheran is an eco-sensitive region, declared by the Ministry of Environment and Forest, Government of India. It is one of the few places in the world where vehicles are not allowed, which makes the place different from others. Matheran takes you over a hundred years back in time when there were no vehicles.

The other mode of transport is a 2 ft (610 mm) gauge narrow gauge railway, which links the town to Neral.

Neral also has a broad gauge station which is on the busy Mumbai-Pune route.

Neral is well connected by railway line with Karjat being the nearest Junction.

12.45 pm : Reached Matheran Rly Stn, Main bazaar of Matheran, A few touts for hotels followed but none could manage to get accommodation for me being single traveler. Even the Muskan Cottage also regretted to accommodate me without police written permission. I searched other hotels, lodges, cottages and even the PWD as also Forest rest houses but found either unavailable or unfit. Like this I walked the entire ( M G Road ) Mahatma Gandhi Road (main road) of Matheran and got exhausted.

By this time I was feeling hungry also.

I decided to enter the Hutatma Kotwal Park and sit for a while on one of its benches to eat the lunch packed by my daughter from Ojhar MIG,Nashik. The moment I opened the lunch pack, two monkeys jumped and ran to snatch it from me. I had to leave the park . Then I realized that the whole of Matheran forests and this hill station, its bazaar, park etc was full of monkeys.

Back on the main bazaar road, I noticed a board displaying time table of Govt bus services from Dasturi Naka to Neral and then to Karzat, vice versa :

Bus fare Dasturi Naka to Neral was Rs 20 and Dasturi Naka to Karjat was Rs 25 only

Dasturi Naka

Neral

Karjat

Karjat

Neral

Dasturi Naka

0.700

07.30

08.00

05.45

06.15

06.45

09.30

10.00

10.30

08.15

08.45

09.15

12.15

12.45

13.15

11.10

11.30

12.00

14.45

15.15

15.45

13.30

14.00

14.30

17.45

18.15

18.45

16.15

16.45

17.15

02.45 pm : Tired by now, I almost decided to go back to Kalyan for night stay but I saw near Pen Co-Op Urban Bank branch, a small arrow board of Satkar Cottage, a MH Govt approved lodge. I enquired from the people around there about this lodge. They apprised me that here also no accommodation is given to single person.

After seeking information about the purpose and genuineness of my visit there, one of them, Mr Shinde agreed to offer one room in his Hotel Suyog cottage / Suyog bhojanalaya ( Prop Suhasini Jyotiba Shinde ), opposite Ram Mandir.I was so happy that I did not ask for the tariff and checked in. I found this well furnished room with attached toilet and CTV etc just for Rs300, highly satisfying.

Without waiting any more, at 03.00 pm, first I finished my lunch pack and then after bath took rest up to 04.45 pm. Thereafter, saw the Ganesh Visharjan programme here in Matheran organized by Mr Shinde and his family / friends. I was told that due to erratic power supply, we have to protect ourselves from the mosquito bites. I checked the menu card. Morning tea Rs 8 or coffee Rs 15 is available only after 07.30 am

05.00 pm : Went for evening walk, once again on MG Road. Checked my mobile with a view to contact my daughter Aradhana Mishra but lo there was no Airtel connectivity. I looked for land line STD booth and requested even some shop keepers but their BSNL land line was also down. Luckily at 05.15 pm, spotted an amiable young couple Sandeep Khaire from Kalyan ( e mail address khaire.sandeep@gmail.com ) who shared his mobile No.9967631360 to connect me with my daughter in Nashik.

06.00 pm : At Nariman Chikki Mart, took a cup of espresso coffee for Rs10 and then bought a mosquito coil to protect from mosquitoes prevalent even in hotel rooms also.

I heard Muslim prayer Ajaan coming from a Masjid here. I saw well kept Union bank, Post Office but badly kept Telephone Exchange and Ali Baug Forest guest house

Supply and quality of water was good.

08.30 pm : My tummy was still full, so without caring for dinner (veg thali Rs 50), went to bed and slept by about 09.30 pm after seeing some TV news and other programmes.

On 23rd Sept 2010( Thursday)

06.00 am : Got up in the morning without expecting bed tea, listened to FM radio bhajan programmes on Ganapati Bappa Moriya in my hotel room No 2 on first floor. By about 07.30 am, I walked down stairs only to find that the hotel’s main gate was still closed. On my request, when the gate was opened, I went out in search of tea.

Only one shop had just opened where I could get coffee for Rs 10.

07.45 am : Now in the morning breeze, strolled on Matheran road towards Khandala point and then to Echo point where no body was present except another walker like me. To my great surprise, he was none other that Dr Rachmale Gopinath, heart surgeon of Lilawati Hospital, Mumbai. We talked for about half an hour there. He was staying with his family in Hotel Panorama, which later I learnt that this was the only one 4 star hotel here. He gave his mobile No. 9821341838 and e mail address rachmaledr@yahoo.com

08.15 am : Walked back and saw that number of monkeys and stray dogs are prevalent. A few hens were also seen. Saw some old private houses like Purbal house, BAAR house, Hermitage private property with paddy fields therein. Saw Desh Bhakt Bhau Saheb Raul Marg, Maulana Azad Rd, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Bazar Peth etc

The distance boards were seen indicating:

Echo point 0.8 km, Louisa point 2.3 km, Charlotte lake 1.3 km, Pay master park 0.6 km

10.30 am : Checked out from hotel and walked back to catch 12.15 pm bus from Dasturi Naka to Neral. While walking back with luggage bag on my back, had a close view of the Matheran Railway station and its historical back ground

The Matheran Hill Railway was built in 1907 by Sir Adamjee Peerbhoy and covers a distance of 20 km (12.4 miles), over large swathes of forest territory. This hill railway had been inspected by UNESCO world heritage site officials in the last week of October 2009. The official declaration of its status as UNESCO world heritage site like other hill railways of India like Kalka-Shimla, Darjeeling hill railway & Nilgiri mountain railway will be declared this year of 2010.The heritage status will boost the tourist activities here. Toy train in Matheran

This toy train journey is a visual delight for the tourists with a range of scenes to enjoy. The ascent ( 1 in 20-25 ) begins a little after the Hardar Hills and reaches the Jamnapatti station, where it appears that road and rail have almost come together. They part here, though to meet again a little further beyond the steep slope of Bhekra Kund. The Horseshoe embarkment near the Mount Barry is a captivating scene to look at. The route runs another mile before it enters into the lone tunnel on the way. Emerging from the tunnel, the line zig zags ( 225 curves ) sharply backwards and forward twice. Thereafter, the train crosses the Panorama Point and the Simpson Tank to reach straight to the Matheran Bazaar.

The journey on a 2 feet gauge commences from Neral and covers a maximum of 12 miles in an hour thereby allowing the passengers ample time to soak in the beauty of the surroundings. It is advisable to have your bookings done earlier through internet or by other means as getting tickets for the toy train becomes difficult in peak tourist seasons.

The train passes through122 bridges and the Route covered are:

Neral - Hardal Hill - Jammapatti Station - Bhekra Station - Mount Barry- Panorama Point - Simpson Point - Matheran Bazaar at a height of 805 meters.

11.10 am : While walking by foot through the road in side Matheran and down hill road to Dasturi Naka, saw the display boards of

Shilproop Clinic of Dr Deepak Thanke, Dr Vaishali Thanke (both BAMS)

Rishikesh café, Anjuman Islam property, 4 star hotel Panorama, 3 star hotel Usha Ascot

Sunset Point 1.9 km, Monkey point 1.2 km, Hart point 1.4 km

Garbut point 2 km, Bazar peth 1.6 km, Dasturi Naka 0.6 km

Sakar rest house of RBI Staff Co-op Society Mumbai

Also saw one idle road roller and one or two moving Ambulance vehicles The road inside Matheran Hills.

A road inside the Matheran Town

11.15 am : Dasturi Naka was now 0.7 km. Panorama point was 2 km from here

11.20 am : Reached the Road – Rail track junction point where an arch gate welcomes the visitors to Matheran ( Aman lodge written with yellow paint on a cement board )

11.25 am : Maharashtra Govt Tourism Deptt Resorts was seen here under renovation

11.30 am : Walked through R N Tagore Road to reach the Dasturi bus stand by 11.35 am

12.15 pm : Bus started for Neral ( fare Rs20 ) to reach Jamnapatti by 12.20 pm

12.30 pm : Walked from bus stand to Neral Rly station to wait for local train to Kalyan.

14.15 pm : Reached Kalyan took lunch and bought latest Rly time table and Tourist maps

14.50 pm : Boarded Jan Shatabdi reaching Nashik by 17.15 pm and Ojhar MIG by 18.30

Some statistical figures about Matheran in Marashtra

Distt Raigarh. Nearest city is Karjat

Area >7 km2 (3 sq mi)

Elevation • 800 m (2,625 ft) in Sahyadri hill range

PIN 410 102, STD 02148, Vehicle Regn No. MH 06

History

Matheran was discovered by Hugh Poyntz Malet, the then district collector of Thane district in May 1850. Lord Elphinstone, the then Governor of Bombay laid the foundations of the development as a future hill station.

The British developed Matheran as a popular resort to beat the summer heat in the region

Matheran (Marathi: Marathi: माथेरान( means forest on head ) is a city and a Hill Station municipal council in Raigad district in the Indian state of Maharashtra. It is a hill station in Karjat Tahsil and is also the smallest hill station in India. It is located on the Western Ghats range at an elevation of around 800 m (2,625 feet) above sea level. It is located around 90 km from Mumbai, and 120 km from Pune. Matheran's proximity to the three Metros makes it a popular weekend getaway for urban residents..

Because of vehicles being banned in Matheran, the place is quite peaceful despite the thousands of visitors coming to visit throughout the year. As no vehicles are allowed in Matheran, one has to drive up to Dasturi Point, 11 km ahead of Matheran, from where you could reach the main bazaar either by foot or on pony.

There are lots of lookout points that provide spectacular views of the surrounding hills and valleys. Matheran has a reasonably dense forest cover.

There are around 38 designated look-out points in Matheran, including the Panorma Point that provides a 360 degree view of the surrounding area and also the Neral town. From this point, the view of sunset and sunrise is breathtaking. The Louisa Point offers crystal clear view of the Prabal Fort. The other points are the One Tree Hill Point, Hart Point, Monkey Point, Porcupine Point, Rambagh Point, and more.

Matheran has been declared an ecosensitive region by the Union Environment Ministry and can be called a Health Sanatorium in itself. The only form of automobile allowed in Matheran is an ambulance operated by the Municipality. No private automobiles are allowed. Within Matheran transport facilities available are horses ( Rs 200 to 250 ) and hand-pulled rickshaws (Rs 300 for three men pullers ).

Matheran lies in an elevated region, enjoys a cooler and less humid climate which makes it popular during the summer months. Temperatures range from 32 °C (90 °F) to 16 °C (61 °F). Matheran has a huge number of medicinal plants and herbs. The town also has a large monkey population, including Bonnet Macaques and Hanuman Langurs. The nearby Lake Charlotte is the main source of Matheran's drinking water.

Languages spoken include Marathi, Hindi, and English. There are a lot of Parsi bungalows. Beautiful old British-style architecture is preserved in Matheran. The roads are not metalled and are made of red laterite earth. There are many "points" (viewpoints) in Matheran which give a panoramic view of the plains below.

On clear nights, the lights of Mumbai are claimed to be visible.

Matheran is also very well connected by road with Mumbai and Pune. Matheran can be reached from Mumbai via Navi Mumbai and Panvel. From Bhiwandi to Kalyan to Ambarnath to Badlapur and continue till Neral there you see one road for Matheran and second towards Karjat/ Khopoli. Go straight on Matheran Ghat Road after a very steep ascent you will reach Matheran's Dasturi naka- a parking place for cars and other vehicle.

A board of warning on Matheran road

11 km After turning left, you will reach the bottom of the Matheran Hill ghat road.

Turn left here and climb 7 km to the Matheran Dasturi Car park.

Matheran Ghat

It is a steep and narrow road but well surfaced for the most part. When you reach the car park find a parking space in the designated area and park your car. The parking entrance fees and daily parking fees need to be paid here.

No vehicles are allowed beyond this point. Matheran center is a 40-minute walk from Dasturi Car Park. Before you enter the limits of Matheran, Matheran Municipal council charges a fees of Rs 25 per adult and Rs 10 for children.

Once you enter, red dusty pathways welcome you to the nature. Porters are available to carry luggage. You can enjoy the walks through the red pathways or ride on horse. Manual 'rikshaws' are also available, each riskhaw is 'driven' by a couple of operators.

From Pune : Set off towards Mumbai on the Pune-Mumbai expressway. Get off the Pune-Mumbai Expressway at the Khopoli exit after passing Lonavla/Khandala and get onto the old Pune-Mumbai road. Approximately 18 km later, you turn right as per a big green sign, in Chouk town. Follow the signs from then on.

One can also exit Pune-Mumbai NH4 at Haal Phata near Khopoli to enter SH 35 which will take you straight to the bottom of Matheran Ghat Road.

Matheran is popular among trekkers.

Dasturi gate (Mathern car park) is approximately 8 km from Neral junction and a beautiful landscape can be seen from Neral itself. Streams cut through the farms. One can follow the road or walk through the countryside along the stream and take the trail used by localites. There aren't direction signs along the trail, so you'll have to take directions from localites or trek keeping the road in sight.

The trail crosses farms, streams, railway track at several places to add to the stunning landscape. Trekkers can rest and enjoy a snack midway at Janmapatti rail station where the road and track meet. There are a few eateries run by localites. Second leg of the trek is difficult than the first as the path gets steeper. Following the road should get you to Dasturi gate after which one has to take the unpaved trail till Matheran Bazaar. All trails in Matheran are well marked and getting around shouldn't be difficult.

Other Attractions

Mount Berry: Mount Berry is a popular tourist destination that is located 5+ km from Matheran. It offers a bird’s eye view of Neral. The major attraction is the slow train that chugs up the hill in the midst of pristine natural beauty.

Matheran peak is visible from here.

King George Point: King George Point is on the major tourist attractions.

Charlotte Lake: Also called the Sharlott Lake. It is one of the most picturesque spots in Matheran. On the right side of the lake, there is the ancient Pisarnath Temple. The two picnic spots Louisa point and Echo point are located on the left side of the lake.

Beautiful Lake in Matheran

Best season to visit this place is monsoon. Tourist can experience the scenic view of waterfalls.

Lookout points: There are around 38 different lookout points in Matheran, from where tourists can view the amazing beautiful valley. The spectacular view of the valley remains in the memory of the tourists for a long time.

Valley Crossing: A very great activity like Valley crossing by a rope can be experienced at Honey(Moon) Point. It seems to be risky and dangerous but it is not as we are tightly held by TWO safety belts and the adventure group conducting this activity does take care of us. You should experience this. Simply awesome!!!

Places of interest

Detailed Map of Matheran

Mountain peak near Lord's Point

There are altogether 28 points, 2 lakes, 2 parks, 4 major worship places and a racecourse to visit inside Matheran. If you want to see all of them then you may need 2–3 days on your feet. One can move around on foot or horseback, but it is recommended moving on feet to take the best glimpse of nature. If you are on Horse back you may not be able to spend your desired time on the points. All the points give a unique view and you can’t miss them. There are many walking paths for a leisurely walk.

Points to see;

Alexander Pt.

Rambag Pt

Little Chowk Pt

Chowk Pt

One Tree Hill Pt

Belvedere Pt

Olympia Race Course

Lords Pt

Charlotte Lake

Cecil Pt (Actually a water fall mouth)

Echo Pt.

Porcupine Pt (Sun Set Pt)

Panorama Point (Sun Rise Pt)

Khandala Pt

Madhavji Garden & Point

Matheran Railway Station

Louisa Point

Mayor Pt

Monkey menace in Matheran

Monkey menace in Matheran
Scared of approaching monkey I could not eat my snacks

One of the Inner roads in matheran

One of the Inner roads in matheran
Morning walks on Matheran inner roads

Greener Matheran hill at its Echo point

Greener Matheran hill at its Echo point
Deep valley down this Echo point in Matheran lies a crystal clear water lake

View from Echo Point at Matheran Hills

View from Echo Point at Matheran Hills
Sushil Ojha with Dr Rachmale Gopinath Sitting together and talking here at Echo Point Matheran Hills

Wednesday, 19 August 2009

I am Sushil Ojha,retired manager SBI

I love travelling and see places meet people

I prefer longer stays amidst nature

I also go for adventurous travels & treks

I have posted some of my travel diaries on my another blog www.geocities.com/sk.ojha2007

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