लक्ष द्वीप की मेरी यात्रा विवरण diary दिनांक 05 अक्टूबर 2007

लक्ष द्वीप की मेरी यात्रा विवरण diary दिनांक 05 अक्टूबर 2007

लक्ष द्वीप की मेरी यात्रा विवरण diary दिनांक 05 अक्टूबर 2007

लक्ष द्वीप अनुपम है परन्तु अरब सागर के इन छोटे छोटे सुंदर कोरल ( प्रवाल ) द्वीपों के बारे में भारत की मुख्य भूमि में

तथा अन्य देशों के लोगों को बहुत कम जानकारी है .

60 वर्ष की मेरी आयु पूरी होने पर 31 मई 2007 को भारतीय स्टेट बैंक की तेल भवन शाखा देहरादून से सेवा अवधि समाप्ति के कुछ समय बाद ही 18.09.2007 से 25.10. 2007 तक की मैंने केरल प्रदेश की यात्रा प्रारंभ की और 20.09.2007 को एर्नाकुलम पहुच कर कोच्ची समुद्र तट से 2 दिनों की कठिन समुद्री यात्रा करके भारत देश के केंद्र शाषित प्रदेश लक्ष द्वीप के मुख्य द्वीप कवरत्ती पहुच गया . वहां भारतीय स्टेट बैंक की कवारत्ति शाखा के मेनेजर तथा अन्य स्टाफ का मैं मेहमान बन कर रहा और रमजान के महीने में भी केरल के सभी व्यंजनों का लुफ्त उठाया . उप राज्यपाल के सचिवालय ने वहां का एक अत्यंत आकर्षक व स्थानीय दर्शनीय फोटो वाले कलेंडर उपलब्ध करा दिया था जिसे देख कर कवारत्ति द्वीप व समुद्र तथा उसके lagoon and coral reef को समझने में आसानी हो जाती है. लक्ष द्वीप की इस यात्रा को सफलता पूर्वक संपन्न कराने में श्री ए बालाकृष्णन ( Secretary to Administrator Laksha Dweep Administration ,कोच्ची ) तथा भारतीय स्टेट बैंक के

श्री राम कुमार तिवारी ( चीफ मेनेजर एन आर आइ शाखा कोच्ची एर्नाकुलम )

श्री के कुरियन कोशी ( ए जी एम् ओवेर्सीज शाखा कोच्ची ),

श्री विनय कुमार ( प्रशानिक अधिकारी स्टाफ प्रशिक्षण केंद्र कोच्ची )

श्री प्रथेश एम् बी ( शाखा प्रबंधक कवारत्ति शाखा ) सभी अधिकारियों व स्टाफ का सहयोग रहा है .

अरब सागर मनोरम होने के साथ साथ भयावह भी है .

दिन में जब चमकीली धूप खिली हो तो समुद्र शांत दृष्टीगोचर होता है . नीले नभ के नीचे समुद्रतल पर खड़ा मानव संध्या काल होने पर जल निधि के लहरों के ऊपर से होकर आने वाली वायु का सुखद संपर्क पा कर नैसर्गिक असीम आनंद का अनुभव करता है.

परन्तु समुद्री तूफ़ान अथवा झंझावात आने पर उसी सागर के झोंके कुछ ही क्षणों में रौद्र रूप में हो जाते हैं . वर्ष के उन दिनों में जलनिधि प्रायः अशांत एवं विक्षुब्ध रहता है . उन दिनों वह अपनी विनाश

लीला का परिचय देने लगता है.

अभी हाल तक अपरिचित एवं उपेक्षित ये द्वीप अब अरब सागर में सौंदर्य स्थलियों के रूप में प्रसिद्ध

हो गए हैं . मेरी जानकारी के अनुसार तत्कालीन भारत के युवा प्रधान मंत्री राजीव गांधी जी ने सपरिवार ( पत्नी श्रीमती सोनिया गाँधी,पुत्री प्रियंका गाँधी,पुत्र राहुल गाँधी ) भारत के मनोरम लक्ष द्वीप में छुट्टी बिताने के लिए प्रवास किया था . वे एक अनुपम द्वीप बंगारम में ठहरे थे .

बंगारम को सुरम्य प्रवाल द्वीप होने के कारण अंतर्राष्ट्रीय पुलिन आश्रय ( बीच रिसोर्ट ) घोषित किया गया है . This inhabitated Bangaram Island has been declared as International Beach Resort in India. भारत से अधिक विदेशी सैलानी इस द्वीप पर बहुधा आते हैं .

चतुर्दिक प्रवाल भित्ति ( कोरल रीफ ) तथा समुद्री झील ( लगून ) से घिरा बंगारम आकर्षक तथा समुद्री खरपतवारों ( सी वीड ), सैवालों और बड़े बड़े पत्थरों से सर्वदा मुक्त है . यह सर्वोत्तम प्राकृतिक तरन ताल ( नैचुरल स्वीमिंग पूल ) तथा जल क्रीडाओं ( वाटर स्पोर्ट ) के लिए अत्यंत उपयुक्त अक़्युइरिउम है, जिसमे कई प्रकार की दुर्लभ रंगीन मछलियाँ देखी जा सकती हैं .

कवरत्ती इस प्रदेश का मुख्यालय है तथा इन द्वीपों के मध्य में स्थित है . यहाँ द्वीप के पश्चिमी ओर

स्थित समुद्री झील ( लगून ) बहुत मनोरम है . यहाँ इस केंद्र शाषित प्रदेश के उप राज्यपाल कार्यालय के अतिरिक्त सभी सरकारी कार्यालय , अस्पताल,स्कूल स्थित हैं .कवारत्ति का इन्दिरा गान्धी अस्पताल पूर्ण रुप से सुसज्जित रेफरल के रुप में विकसित किया गया है . 1976 में कवारत्ति में प्रथम आयुर्वेदिक औषधालय क़ी स्थापना लक्ष द्वीप क़ी चिकित्सा सेवा के इतिहास में महत्व पूर्ण घटना है . यहाँ के द्वीप वासी चावल के लिए मुख्य भूमि पर निर्भर रहते हैं .समुद्री मछलियाँ तथा कृषि के क्षेत्र में नारियल यहाँ का मुख्य उत्पादन है तथा इन् द्वीपों की अर्थ व्यवस्था का प्रमुख आधार है . अन्य सभी सप्लाइज मेन लैंड से आती हैं . डीजल जेनेराटर सेट से पूरे द्वीप को 24 घंटे पॉवर सप्लाई की जाती है . पीने का पानी केवल आवश्यकता अनुसार समुद्र के नमकीन पानी को मीठा पानी में बदल कर सड़क के किनारे नलों से दिया जाता है . कवारत्ति द्वीप में सीमेंट क़ी सड़कें हर घर के सामने हैं . इन सडकों पर कुछ कारें,बसें, आटोरिक्शा,मोटर साईकिल भी चलती हैं . इस द्वीप के मूल निवासियों के अलावां भारत की मुख्य भूमि से काफी लोग सरकारी नौकरी के कारण रहते हैं. इस द्वीप में मैं एक होटल (अल बी ,फोन 0486 262579 ) में ठहर कर एक हफ्ते तक पूरा द्वीप पैदल ही घूमा था . द्वीप की लम्बाई लगभग केवल 5 Km तथा चौड़ाई लगभग 2 km हैं . यहाँ चोरी जैसे अपराध भी नहीं होते हैं . सभी द्वीपवासी बहुत धर्मपरायण सीधे सच्चे व बहुत ईमानदार तथा हेल्पफुल हैं . रमजान के दौरान किसी भी जगह खाने पीने की चीजें नहीं मिलाती हैं . सब्जियां और फल की सप्लाई जब भी आती है सभी को उचित मात्रा में ही खरीदने को मिलती हैं .

वर्ष 1956 में यह केन्द्र शाषित प्रदेश बना तथा 1973 में इसका नाम लाकादिव एंड मिनिकोय से बदल कर लक्ष द्वीप कर दिया गया . अगत्ती द्वीप में एक छोटा हवाई अड्डा भी कम कर रहा है.

पक्षियों का द्वीप पिट्टी एक निर्जन द्वीप है जहाँ घास भी नहीं उगती है . यह मूंगा द्वीप वनस्पति विहीन तथा बालुकामय है .कवरत्ती से 24 किलोमीटर नोर्थ वेस्ट तथा अमिनी से 35 किलोमीटर साउथ वेस्ट पर है .अगत्ती तथा बंगारम से भी निकट पड़ता है .पिट्टी में एक ऊँची समुद्री चट्टान है जिसके दक्षिण भाग में बालू का ऊँचा भाग है. इस द्वीप को दूर से देखने पर निर्जन लगता है परन्तु नजदीक पहुचने पर पक्षियों के झुण्ड दिखाई देते है. ये टर्न पक्षी क्रेस्टी सूटी टर्न तथा फिलिपीन नोडी लगभग 40000 किलोमीटर से उड़ कर आते है

सुहेली पार या सुहेली द्वीप विश्व के सबसे सर्वोत्तम सागर पुलिनों ( सी बीच ) में से एक है . इस द्वीप के चारों ओर शांत समुद्री झील ( लगून ) का क्षेत्रफल लगभग 100 वर्ग किलोमीटर है .यह लक्ष द्वीप की सबसे बडी समुद्री झील है. जहाज के डेक से उड़न मछलियों (फलयिंग फिश ) का दृश्य देखने लायक होता है . लागून की तली से मूंगे बटोरना बहुत प्रचलित है . प्रवाल पुष्प (कोरल फ्लावर ) या सूरजमुखी (सन् फ्लावर) कोरल सबसे लोकप्रिय हैं.

गहरे समुद्र मे जाकर टूना मछली ( टूना या बोनिटो) जो कि समुद्र कि चिकन या मुर्गी कही जाती है , पकड़ना एक व्यवसाय है जो कि अन्तर्राष्ट्रिय बजार मे अत्यधिक demand मे है . प्रोढ़ टूना मछली आधी मीटर से अधिक लम्बी, चिकनी व चमकीली होती हैं. लक्ष द्वीप के जल में कछुये व शार्क भी हैं

एक जन श्रुति के अनुसार केरल के अंतिम राजा चेर्मान पेरुमाल ने इस्लाम धर्म अंगीकार कर लिया और मक्का के लिए प्रस्थान कर दिया . केरल के अनेक राजाओं के निर्देश पर कई हिन्दू उनकी खोज में चल पड़े . इस अभियान दल के सदस्य समुद्र में घिर गए और जहाज ध्वस्त हो जाने के कारन उन्हें बाध्य हो कर इन द्वीपों में बस जाना पड़ा .

चौदहवीं शताब्दी में एक अरब फकीर उबैदुल्लाह ने, जिसे इन द्वीपों में मुम्बे मुल्लाक्का कहा जाता है,इन लोगों को इस्लाम धर्म में शामिल कर लिया .

उन दिनों आवागमन का एक मात्र साधन स्वदेशी निर्मित छोटा जहाज " ओडम " था

अब यहाँ के सारे निवासी मुसलमान हैं जिन्हें अनुसूचित जन जाति की श्रेड़ी में रखा गया है . इनमे से अधिकतर सुन्नी मुसलमानों के शफी वर्ग में हैं . वहाबी तथा अहमदिया अल्प संख्यक हैं .

मिनिकॉय तथा अगत्ती द्वीपों में वहाबियों की संख्या ज्यादा है . अहमदिया केवल कल्पेनी द्वीप में हैं

कोया सबसे ऊँची जाति मानी जाती है . वे ओडम जहाजों के मालिक तथा जमींदार थे

मेलाच्चेरी सबसे नीची जाति मानी जाती है . ये कोया लोगों के नौकर होते थे .

कवारत्ति द्वीप की बहुत बडी विशेषता है कि यहाँ पर कुत्ते तथा साँप नही हैं . कुछ कौये देखे जा सकते हैं जो की मुख्य भूमि से लाए गए हैं क्योंकि अहमदिया मुसलमानो के लिए कौये शुभ माने जाते हैं .

Sushil Ojha (60) of Dehradun as pillion with Pradip Tiwari (30) on his Enfield Bike after he alone whole night driving from Chandigarh

MANALI TO LEH

15.07.2008 TO 17.07.08

Caretaker of Lahaul Spiti house Manali flanked by Pradip Tiwari (left) and Sushil ojha (right)
Pradip Tiwari at Hidimba temple Manali gate shot with a white rabbit in his arms
Sushil ojha in thinking pose at Hidimba temple Manali
Pradip Tiwari at Hidimba Temple Manali
Sushil Ojha at Hidimba temple Manali
Starting from Manali
At Rohtang pass it was already cloudy evening
Night stayAt Keylang at the residence of DPRO Mr Raman Sharma,PCS
with six other bikers from Punjab(on their two bikes and one scooter)
At Barlachala
At Sarchu

At Khardungla ( world's highest motorable road)
Pradip tighting the luggaage on bike

Manali : 15 Jul 08 (Tuesday) Hotel Raj Palace,Manali(Distt Kulu)Himachal Pradesh

05:30 AM

It was drizzling. Got up. After tea without sugar ,walked out of hotel. Unlike in shimla where the roads out side the hotel were deserted till about 08:00 AM except the morning walkers, here in Manali , there were lot of tourists on the Mall Road and on the Bus / Taxi stand. This is very busy Inter State (long distance) Bus Stand. Saw the distance /fare chart from Manali

to Rohtang : 51 KM (Bus fare Rs 50 and shared taxi fare Rs 100 per pax)

to Keylang : 115 KM (Bus fare Rs 110 )

to Leh (J&K) : 474 KM (Bus fare Rs 585 and shared taxi fare Rs 1100 per pax)

Keylang to Leh : 385 Km (Bus fare Rs 475) only one bus departure 2 AM(15 hrs journey )

07:00 AM

Rain had stopped. After fresh up in hotel room, again walked on the Mall Road which is quite small as compared to the Mall Road in Shimla.

08:00 AM

Chanced to see an young man of about 30 ,on his Royal En Field Motor Cycle, well equipped like any long distance road traveler. He was trying to shoot through his high tech camera. The curiosity in me took closer to him when he queried about the location of Lahual Spiti Govt Guest House in Manali. I myself also not being a local, expressed ignorance of the place he wanted to know but instead, I was curious to know as to where he was travelling to and that too alone on his Bike. He was Pradeep Tiwari of Reliance Retails coming from Chandigarh driving alone throughout in the night and had just reached Manali and now was on way to Leh. After wishing him happy and safe journey, I walked on the uphill road about 2 Kms to Hidimba Temple said to be of Mahabharat period. Many starred hotels / cottages / tourist house / guest house were seen on this road which had a panoramic view of entire Manali valley. The forest of Pines ,very old and thick trees were worth seeing in the vicinity of this Temple.

Manali : 15 Jul 08 (Tuesday)

10:00 AM

While returning down hill through short cut road, I again chanced to see Pradeep and his Bike No. DL 4S AK 7839 still unloaded in the premises of some guest house. We saw each other and I entered in that premises. He was talking with the care taker of Lahaul Spiti House where he had prior room booking. I joined to know that he will take bath etc and rest up to 12 noon and there after he will leave for Leh , to day itself. We further talked and then it transpired that he too belongs to Dehra Dun. His father Mr C K Sharma works in Ordance Depot (Raipur)Dehra Dun and has his own house situated at the Shahastra Dhara-Raipur Road Crossing . To give him company even at the age of 61 and with my hip surgical operation in the past , I offered as a pillion rider as an adventure from Manali to Leh which he happily agreed. I left for my hotel to check out by 12 noon by that time after heavy break fast , I visited the Budhist Gompa and SBI branch premises / ATM ,saw pavement sellers of Local variety of Badam/Kaju kernels @ bargained rate of as low as Rs 50/Kg

12:00 noon

With my small handbag, I walked up to Pradeep and found that he was still sleeping in his room. However, hearing my door knockings, he thankfully got up and hurried to take bath etc and got ready but by the time we had tea and he his break fast(bread toast only), it was already about 1 PM. After packing and tying all the baggage on his bike he gave me another spare helmet for my use. I was wearing the only half sweater and the floater sandal in my feet while he was wearing a jeans Bermuda, a full jacket over his body and RedChief leather full boot on his feet. We both tied our helmets and as he also wanted to see Hidimba Temple, we drove uphill road and there he took a number of photographs and video filming up to 2 PM some times also with the help of the foldable tripod which he was carrying in his luggage.

02:30 PM

We exchanged our Mobile Numbers (9897131042 /9915026305) and remembering God, left Manali Mall Road crossing point. The bike meter reading was showing 325 KM and Petrol tank signaling in reserve. The distance board on SH 62 was showing as from Manali

Leh 474 Km,Upasi 424 Km,Pang 310 Km,Sarchu 222 Km, Patsio 162 Km,Baralchala 190 Km

Keylang 115 Km,Rohtang 51 Km, Palchan 09 Km

On the outskirts of Manali valley we crossed bridge over tributary of Beas river. After driving a few Kilo Meters , we crossed a small Petrol Pump at Palchan on the periphery of Manali Town. Per chance suddenly I reminded him about petrol and he returned back.

After filling full tank 12.77 Litres of Petrol for Rs 730.62, we were told that there is no Petrol Pump before Keylang Town (Distt HQ Of Lahaul Spiti).

Palchan : 15 Jul 08 (Tuesday)

A small culvert on the main road in Palchan was under repair and a tractor was crossing through due to which our bike was stuck midway and we were on the verge of falling together with the bike also. As pillion, I was not in a position to get down unless the driver first gets down to allow my getting from front side instead of from back. The driver at the same time also could not get down unless the pillion gets down. The bike had a high rise back rest attachment and all its three sides had loads of baggage tied securely with nylon ropes.

The men on the tractor helped to straighten our bike to enable the bike to move further. This was first taste of adventurous drive to Leh. We drove comfortably thereafter enjoying the sight seeing all around the high mountain till we reached a patch of slippery curve on uphill road where almost all vehicles were getting stuck. Our bike was also stuck in the mud and could move only after the pillion got down and gave a manual push to it. This was the second sticky experience of drive to Leh.

Over all, the road was good with sometimes there were caravan of army heavy vehicles coming from Leh side. HIMANK Border Road Organisation(BRO) personnel and their unit detachment huts / hamlets were occasionally seen on the road sides .Some foreigners were also driving towards Rohtang Pass on their bullet motor cycle with no luggage and some times even without helmet. We cheered each others as we drove on this Hill Road. It was about 4 PM when it started drizzling. As we had nothing with us to protect from rains, we continued to drive without getting too much wet. Then came the famous point of Rahala water fall at 3078 Meters where Bias river was dropping from a hight of about 50 meters and crossing our road. Here it started raining intermittently due to which after covering the bike with a plastic sheet , we stopped for about 1 hour to shoot photos / videos and also play with the falling waters. We took tea bread pakora and butter toast in a make shift canopy covered tea stall and ate mangoes which I was carrying from Jarol 9 Kms before Sunder Nagar on way to Manali yesterday 14^th Jul afternoon (01.:30 PM). Pradeep was so busy in enjoying his shooting spree that he almost took no notice of time running so fast and we had another 100 Km to reach Keylang after crossing the first high range of Rohtang pass.

Rahala Fall : 15 Jul 08 (Tuesday)

05.00 PM

We left Rahala fall point to drive on further uphill road. Upon reaching higher and higher ranges, we saw an almost slopey flat hill top covered with green grass and camping tents /eating points where many foreigners / adventurists were seen trying sky diving. We did not stop here for paucity of time and continued driving till we stopped for a while at Rani Nala –Rohtang Beas Kund (Beas river looking like a small rivulet) and then at thick glacier point on the road itself (once again shooting photos). After half an hour further drive, we reached the top hill point called Rohtang Pass at about 6 :30PM.Traffic on this road was scant now.

Rohtang Pass : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

06:30 PM

We stopped for a while to make mobile calls but could not do so due to no connectivity. It was dusky and all the road side tents were now closed. For some distance the road here was almost flat except few places where the road was crossing ice cold waters flowing down hill from melting glaciers. At one such crossing point called Pagal nala, our feet /shoes and socks were drenched. It was icy cold wind. Remember, I had only half thin sweater and no socks in my floater shoes. But Pradeep’s drenched socks in his wet Boots/feet had to be dried up some how to drive further in the darkness of cold night. Luckily one small tent was open. We stopped here to take tea (Rs20). Pradeep took out his socks to dry by hanging through his hands over the fire flames thankfully made available for us by burning some empty card board boxes. After a while the steam started emanating from the wet socks but to make the situation worse, the heals of one nylon sock got burnt making a big hole in it. Pradeep had only this pair of socks. So, the same wet socks had to be used with the help of left over of plastic wrapper used for packing the bread loaf in that shop. Luckily bright moon night helped us commence our journey on an alien land and unknown down hill road with no body to guide when ever the road bifurcated. But again luckily at all such road bifurcations after waiting just for a while some truck passed by and guided us the right road to reach Keylang. Down side of the road, the roars of fast flowing river was heard in the valley of Lahaul Spiti. Small dwellings were seen at the intermittent places named Koksar,Sishu,Gondhala,Tandi before finally reaching Keylang.

Keylang : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

10:00 PM (night)

When we reached Keylang, it was dead night and not a single person was available to guide us the direction of the Govt Circuit House where Pradeep,through his one of the Govt official friends , had pre arranged for night stay. But no person was visible on road side to be able to guide us to locate the Circuit House and a few guidance were just a guess telling misleading approach road. Somehow we could locate a Hotel in a big high rise premises. Happily it was the Circuit House and luckily the mobile connectivity was traced there to contact Pradeep’s friend in Chandigarh who apprised that now his stay is arranged in PWD guest house which could not be pre communicated due to loss of our connectivity. It was further difficulty in locating this PWD premises but again luck had favoured when few persons were seen night walking towards us. On our asking for required guidance and after knowing our identity they apprised that they are the Govt officials working there with DPRO Mr Raman Sharma,PCS and that Mr Sharma was in fact anxiously waiting for our safe reaching that night. Shortly we reached PWD guest house where we met Mr Sharma at 11 PM. It was a cold night and by that time the PWD rooms were now occupied by some other guests. Mr Sharma took us to his official residence and offered his bed room for us followed by tea prepared by his orderly who soon arranged from nearby Dhaba some Dal fry and Chapaties etc to eat. We hurried to wash ourselves with bucket full of water heated by electric rod. I made phone calls to apprise all concerned that I was on way to Leh and was staying in Keylang that night. Pradeep continued his phone calls even past midnight from out side of the room after I had gone to sleep by 12 night. Raman Sharma, a young administrative officer at Keylang HQ of Lahaul Spiti Distt(HP) shared lots of historical facts and some adventurous experiences /information of once earth quake hit valley and its devastations just a few years ago. Keylang is a smaller and congested place in this valley with all sorts of infrastructural difficulties and supply of basic amenities. Serving here a brave & challenging task for the development of people and places. This young Himachal Pradesh cadre administrative officer had equipped himself with PC and internet connectivity in Keylang to remain up to date.

He told us that on the banks of Chandra Bhaga river,there are ruins of Gondhla fort of the then Negi Kings of Lahaul. There is only one Petrol Pump at Tandi at the confluence of Chandra river originating from Chandra Tal and Bhaga river originating from Suraj Tal.

In J&K this Chandra Bhaga river becomes Chenab river.

Keylang : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

05:15 AM

I Got up but Pradeep and Raman were still asleep. Entered in the kitchen and prepared red tea without sugar. Read some old news papers etc and took bath by 7 AM and got ready. Phone to my son Dr anupam in DehraDun. By this time Pradeep and Raman also got up and with the help of orderly after taking tea etc , Pradeep went out to buy two plastic cans for extra Petrol. There after he also got ready. At about 8 AM,we took out the Bike parked near PWD rest house and passed through the new and good bus stand here with facility of night stay in a private guest house. Then we drove about 6 Km back to IOC Petrol Pump at Tandi on the confluence of Chandra Bhaga rivers. We saw a board here indicating that the next petrol pump is only at Leh about 400 Kms away . In between Keylang and Leh , there is no petrol and no phone connectivity . Filled in the bike full tank and the two cans total 14 liters petrol for Rs 840. Next 120 Kms were in Himachal Pradesh and further 265 were in Jammu & Kashmir State.We enjoyed seeing the confluence in the day time and did filming at and near the petrol pump. The distance board placed in Tandi indicated that

Keylang 7 Km , Jespa 30 Km, Darcha 37 Km, Zing Zing Bar 67 Km, Barlachala (4883 M) 82 Km, Kiling Sarai 94 Km, Sarcha (4253 M) 116 Km, Leh 372 Km

Darcha->Patsia(3679M)->SurajTal(4795M)->Barlachala->Sarchu

Rohtang->Koksar 40Km, Tandi->16 Km, Keylang 8 km, Jispa->23 Km, Darcha->7 Km, Patsio->16 Km, Barlachala-> 31 Km, sarchu-> 30 Km, Leh -. 253 Km

11.00 AM

We left Keylang after break fast (Bread toast,Omlet and Tea) in the office of DPRO Mr Raman

11:40 AM

Reached Jespa where tents were seen available for boarding & lodging

12:00 Noon

Padma (L&B) on the road site where a fast flowing rivulet was crossing our road and where the entire village had perished under infamous devastating Lahaul Spiti earth quake debris. Now pain full view of a barren small island of stones can be seen in place of once a lively village. Here we met 6 young boys from Patiala on their 2 bullet motor cycle and 1 Bajaj scooter. We became a group of 8 driving on our Bikes/scooter to Leh. Bought one bottle of mineral water for Rs 20.

Road to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

12:55 PM

A small crystal clear blue water lake Pradeep Tal on the road side

01:00 PM

Reached Patsio where a small army detachment was stationed and one Tyre-tube repairing shop was seen.

01:15 PM

Reached Zing Zang where pegions were seen sitting flying here and there over the road side wide river with less water the name of which we could not know.

01:30 PM

This place looked like a peace full L&B tents/camping zone with snow bound hill tops.

01.55 PM

Again a much bigger blue lake with crystal clear water and snow peaks all around here.

02:00 PM

Now passing Baralchala Pass (4883M) valley through a very good road with a scenic view of snowy golden peaks. Pradeep was capturing all such heavenly scene spread along side road. We noticed that both Chandra and Bhaga rivers were originating from this valley. Chandra & Suraj Tals both located some where here.

02:45 PM

Here was another terrific hill road driving experience, when all our bikes /scooter got tumbled one by one while crossing an ice cold water channel flowing fast down the snow bound mountain. The water level was knee deep flowing over round boulders resulting into silencers/engines getting filled with water due to which the vehicles refused to kick start. We had to wait for engines/carburetors to dry up. Luckily, one of the Patiala boys was a mechanic also and he helped out and all the vehicles again rolled out.

03:00 PM

Now a few kilometers patch of bad road. Though, L&B camps were seen here.

Road to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

03:20 PM

Now it appeared that we were negotiating worse road at. this place perhaps rightly called Killing Sarai. Here we saw a group of young boys on their bi-cycles coming from Leh side.

03:30 PM

But just after about 10 minutes worse part of road driving experience, we were in expanse of a blue valley , where a number of exotic tents / camps / decent eating places both budget and expensive ones. To save time for this long fascinating journey, we had not stopped any where for eating any thing so far. But to satisfy our hunger, while driving we ate some biscuits and took water. I was feeding him the biscuits into his mouth from the back seat and thus he continued to drive.

03:45 PM

A very good road like a drive way with valley & green grass with beautiful flowers all around / tents along side the river . Swiss cottages / Himalayan Tourist Camp-Dorje(above Rs 1000 per pax) / Standard tents & dormitories for budget classes also. Private local individuals have also raised tents /eatables for economy class.(Rs 100 per bed/Rs 50 per rice plate/tea Rs 8)

We were told that Sarchu was another 8 Kms from here where a facility of Lodging / Boarding was available . This Sarchu place is the last point of Himachal Pradesh State and thereafter next such place is a distance of about 100 Kms at Pang in Jammu & Kashmir State.

04:20 PM

Reached Sarchu with L&B tents here also . Now we were entering in J&K state and all our bikes were subjected to security checks by the Army Pickets stationed here. Now the distance board was showing as under :

Pang 88 Km, Tanglangla 156 Km, Upasi 200 Km, Leh 252 Km

04:30 PM

Unlike our expectations this road in J&K was again very good. Wide river.Some special type of grass land with or without flowers. River side raised banks were looking wonderful due to of different designs every now and then. Only nature could do such a marvelous scenery.

Road to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

05:15 PM

Now we reach up hill road called Gata loop ( good uphill road with 21 loops) which ends at the height of 4667 Meters. Pang is now 41 Kms away.

Road to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

06:00 PM

Reached Nakeela at a height of 15,547 Ft. Pang is now 32 Kms away. Down hill starts but just after 4 Km drive again uphill road where some tents were seen. Pang is now 28 Kms away. Two types of shortcut roads were also seen. One for Gattoos load trucks and the other for local walkers / cattles.

06:45 PM

We were at a height of 16670 Ft. Now there was pick up problem in bike. At one such uphill turning point , the bike stopped and fell as I could not get down swiftly. We were alone on the road and no vehicles could be seen with the night approaching fast . All others Patiala boys had gone faster and there was no mobile connectivity. We summoned strength and despite my hurt leg , pushed our bike up to a height where the road was comparatively flat. Luckily, the bike started after few kicks and we proceeded further to reach Pang.

08:00 PM

Reached Pang where all 6 Patiala Boys decided for night stay. We were tired and needed rest. My physical inclination was for calling it a day. Some local people also forbade us for further journey during night because of some recent incidences of robbery / murder etc. Here we could find 2 more boys from Mandi on bike to Leh . They too were in favour of breaking their journey at Pang.

But Pradeep was some how in favour of continuing the night driving to cover another 100 Km so that he can reach Leh tomorrow morning by about 8 AM to receive his friend at the Leh Airport who was coming to join Pradeep. Seeing his eagerness and adventure filled as he is , I agreed to carry on the night journey as an action filled experience on road to Leh . Seeing to such a decision, the same local people suggested us not to stop our bike any where on the road to avoid any chance of robbery etc till we reach some safe camping site for night stay.

Night hill driving to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

Taking due note of all these developments and without wasting any more time on eating etc, he kick started his bike and we were on the road journey again and that too all alone in night. A few kilometers road was good and up hill reaching on palatue type wide and straight road looking like we were driving on an air strip. The white mountains on both sides of the road gave a feeling that we were driving on a snow bound road. Though I was wearing only half thin sweater but the tightness of the helmet on my head was keeping me warm. We were happy to experience such a wonderful journey till we reached few patches of diversion roads

Night hill driving to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

where it was difficult in the night to locate the correct one. Loaded with experiences of night driving , Pradeep could manage to take correct road with the help of bike head light beams. The real trouble started when the road patches turned in to coarse sand and or bike could not move further. Some how we pushed our bike every time to drive but got stuck in next patch of such type of worst road. There was no traffic, no help what so ever. In one such long patch which looked like unending, Pradeep became apprehensive of possible dangers ahead and decided to stop further on ward journey. By now we had covered about 20 Kms from Pang in about 2 hours and going back to Pang would be costing more than one hour. Re commencing journey next morning from Pang would be further costing us time. We felt helpless and started to look for some sort of night shelter on way back journey despite impending threats of life. In this frantic search, we could spot some hutments at a distance in the darkness of night on the road side. Summoning enough courage Pradeep repeated bike horns to get one of the hut doors opened. When we sought help , we found that they were road labour huts and there was hardly any space for them in such a cold night.

We were in dilemma for some time , when we saw a beam of head light coming from Pang towards us and we waited for this vehicle to reach . On our giving hand signal to stop this vehicle , contrary to our expectations , we found this to be a bike stopping near us. And lo , these were the same 2 Mandi boys who were with us till Pang. They told us that after having their dinner at Pang , they thought that all except them have proceeded for Leh. So they also decided to follow us. It was our happy meeting and then Pradeep shared the experience of bad road ahead. Unmindful of the quality of bad road they said that instead of returning back to Pang , let us proceed towards Leh. Since we were four now, we were ready to face any eventuality. We started from here helping each other guessing for the correct route, hand pushing our bikes at times. The road looked flat but the bikes were facing pick up problem. We continued driving up and up without finding any clue of getting any resting place till we reached the highest point where the icy wind made us shiver. Added to that we developed breathing problem and a short of nausea due to empty stomach since I and Pradeep had not taken any lunch or dinner so far. It was past mid night 12:30 and almost exhausted.

We saw here an unlocked small Temple on a raised plate form . The two bikes were stopped. With great difficulty I climbed down the bike and some how crouched into the temple to find that its floor was covered with green carpet and the pictures of some gods/goddess. I nearly collapsed on this carpet in one corner resting my back on the sides of the two walls. I was shivering and was gasping to breathe. After some time, all three also came in with baggage. I opened my bag and took out the woolen white shawl. This shawl was shared by we three. Pradeep opened his bag and took out his sleeping bag. Out of we four, I was 61 years old but

Night hill driving to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

all others were young men but all were facing similar problem. Pradeep said that his feet were ice cold due to wet socks. I suggested that he should rub his feet so that the warmth of sleeping bag might give some comfort. The two Mandi boys could not bear the shivering cold coupled with breathing problem and decided to continue their journey for rest in some camp. When they wanted some petrol from us saying that their bike was in reserve, I guessed that under the influence of liquor, they were travelling from Pang unmindful of prior filling of the petrol in their bike. Any way, Pradeep offered and asked them to take some petrol from cans. After taking petrol they left and we two passed night in that temple.

Tanglala (17582 Ft) : 17 Jul 08 (Thurseday)

05:30 AM

I could not sleep as I was shivering and gasping through out the night waiting for morning time. At about 05:30 , I called Pradeep but he did not respond. I thought not to disturb him.

06:30 AM

At about 06:30 , he also got up. He said he was feeing giddiness and exhausted. So we rested for another hour.

07:30 AM

At about 07:30 , a crowd of Laddakhi looking women started pouring in this Temple with their Pooja offerings (cash, ilaichi dana, agarbatti,dhoop,flowers) , unmindful of we two strangers with our baggage spread open scattered there. This continued for some time and after that wrapped in my shawl and with my trembling legs I came out of the Temple to see the bright sun light and read that this Temple was erected in 1969 with the endowment fund of the then army unit commanders. Before that a sadhu was reported to be meditating at the same place

In the centre of the two lane wide road in front of this Temple, a cemented plate form was erected with three sides indicating the name of this place, distance, direction etc. The icy wind was blowing like a current. A road side tent was also there containing some resting benches/torn blankets and a notice board that this tented shop remains open from 12 noon to 12 night.

This place Tanglang la at 17582 Ft was the second highest motorable road in the world.

Pradeep also got up and took photographs. Almost all the truck drivers stopped here to pay their Pooja offerings packet of ilaichi dana. One of such packet was opened by Pradeep and we took some ilaichi danas to eat to energise ourselves so that we could drive further.

Tanglala (17582 Ft) : 17 Jul 08 (Thurseday)

08:00 AM

We checked our bike and petrol cans only to find that at least 5 liters of petrol has been taken away by the 2 Mandi boys in the night. We emptied both cans of petrol into the bike fuel tank and packed / tied securely all our baggage onto the bike and left Tanglang la on the down hill journey now passing through a valley which was now protecting us from cold wind. The warmth of bright sun was gradually making us comfortable. The oxygen supply was also increased. So no breathing problem and no pick up problem in the bike. The road some times was bad to worse but because of down hill journey, the driving was now comfortable. Yet Pradeep was still not feeling well. So after a few kilometers drive Pradeep wished to sleep over the road side stones in soothing warmth of bright sun. We stopped our bike and found that my bag had loosened and was about to fall. Luckily we did not loose this bag though one glass item got broken in side the bag itself. Pradeep slept there for some time and I sat down to write down my diary. Some foreigners boys and girls coming from Leh on their bikes exchanged greetings with us basking there.

10:00 AM

Pradeep got up at 10 AM and tied the loosened bag tightly and commenced our journey. Now Rumtse was 28 Kms, Upasi was 60 Kms and Leh 111 Kms away.

10:45 AM

We reached Rumtse within 45 minutes drive. And our road was passing through an Army detachment protected area here as such our entry was subjected to security check. We were eagerly searching for availability some tea & break fast etc and as such spotting the two tents/camps/eating point, we stopped our bike and we dumped into waiting chairs in the warmth of the bright sun in front of these tents.

Rumtse : 17 Jul 08 (Thurseday)

08:00 AM

We washed our hands & face with hot water. During talks with the tents owner, we came to know that our 2 Mandi boys had slept in their tent and left for Leh at about 8 AM. After some time we were served with hot tea, bread with egg omelet, Britania cake followed by hot chapattis and subjee. After eating all this, Pradeep wished to sleep in the warmth of the beds lying under the tent to recoup enough energy. I kept sitting in one of the chairs kept around a high table in the sun. After some time I spread my legs over one of the other chairs and closed my eyes while basking. My entire body was aching due to pillion riding bearing all the jerks during this long & arduous hill journey on bike risking my once operated hip joint. Any further hip damage may now be risky at this old age. So I started thinking of returning by bus instead of as pillion on bike. But to give company to Pradeep was also in my mind, so I was waiting for the other 6 Patiala boys who might be reaching here around 12 noon.

Yes it happened so and all these 6 boys reached here and I signaled to stop them. I shared our experiences of night stay at Tangla La and they shared their experience of night stay at Pang. All of them wanted to sleep due to fatigue arising out of breathlessness in Pang also. When enquired about their return journey with Pradeep, they apprised that they would be staying for some time in Leh. In the meantime energised Pradeepgot up. Now they slept there and we left for Leh via Upasi. The road was very good and almost plane. The drive and the scenery were enjoyable.

Reached Upasi . After crossing one bridge over River Sindhu, the road bifurcated. We took the two lane well maintained road to Leh. River Sindhu was running almost parallel to our road. Small villages/town ships/old Gompas came across us, yet our mobile connectivity could not be restored. Much before Lah there are many army disciplined establishments one after the other, spread on both sides of the wide road. Then came the hill road with sand dust and loose soil giving a look like a desert. It was hotter here. In a road side small market, we stopped at a STD/PCO point to make calls. Pradeep could contact his friend who had already arrived by air in the morning and now he was staying in a hotel. He noted down his address.

02:30 PM

Reached Leh. Saw spacious magnificent administrative buildings and wide roads. We spotted a petrol pump and vehicular traffic like any other Indian cities. When Pradeep was heading towards hotel of his friend, I wished to be dropped near Main Bus Stand of Leh to enable me to make my staying arrangement near bus stand . It would be convenient for me to move around by bus to see in and around Leh.

Pradip with a foreigner travelling alone in his self driven vehicle fully equipped with bed room attached toilet TV and GPS system etc


At Petrol pump near Keylang
Pradip with his Red Chief boot and pair of socks drenched in water while others helped him cross this icy cold water current down hill
seen sitting gasping for oxygen on temple entry door, wrapped in his white shawl and helmet tied on his head, Sushil ojha at 17582 ft Tanglala Pass ( world's second highest motorable road) after passig night in this temple with

At Rumteq tent house having some food after remaining practically food less through out previous day and night.

SUSHIL OJHA, at 60, TRAVELS FROM NORTH INDIA ( Dehra Dun ) to SOUTH INDIA ( Ernakulam /

SUSHIL OJHA, at 60, TRAVELS FROM NORTH INDIA ( Dehra Dun ) to SOUTH INDIA ( Ernakulam / Cochin, LakshaDweep, Kumarakom / Alapuzza back waters Thiruvanthapuram, Kotayyam,Kumili,Thekaddy-Mattupetty Dam,Periyar lake,Munnar hill station,Aluva,Thrissur,Guruvayur temple,back to Ernakulam and then to Nashik in Maharashtra FROM 17.09.2007 TO 25.10.2007

Sushil Ojha from Dehradun travels to Alappuzha
— Venice of the East —
Country	India
State	Kerala

09.10.2007(Tuesday) Travel by train from Ernakulam to Alleppy (Alapuzha)

05.00 am : Got up and got ready while Tiwari family was asleep.

06.00 am : Prepared tea myself and sipped while telephoning to elder son Anurag and elder daughter in law Rashmi. Tiwari family was still asleep in his Ernakulam rented flat.

09.00 am : After break fast with Tiwari family, accompanied him on his bike, up to main bus station. From here, the railway station was at a distance of just 5 minutes walk.

09.30 am : So instead of bus, I decided to take Chennai- Alleppy Express ( Ernakulam to Alleppy fare Rs 19 ). Electric Engines driven trains run on Ernakulam – Alleppy – Thiruvantaram, broad gaugeElectrified track.

11.00 am : Reached Alleppy ( now Alappuzha ) via Kumblam, Turvur, Cherthala stations

Met Mr K. Ajith Kumar, Regional Manager, SBI Regional Business Office, Beach Road, Alleppy situated near Rly Stn. After tea etc, he instructed his car driver to take me to Distt Tourism Promotion Council on Jetty Road, Alleppy to find out details of sight seeing of Alleppy back waters etc and then to arrange my stay in Retiring room @ Rs 150

02.00 pm : Took lunch of vegetarian ( South Indian ) thali for Rs 20 in IRCTC restaurant.

05.00 pm : After snacks and tea, saw very well maintained and very neat & clean Alleppy Railway Station ( inside and out side ). The spacious, almost spot less my retiring room was on the first floor. Sitting quietly in its verandah was giving pleasure of viewing local buses carrying passengers very frequently to the famous Punnakkal Kayal (lake) Punnamada Boat lake race side at a distance of about 4.5 km from here..

06.00 pm : Walked 0.7 km from Rly Stn to Alleppy beach. The sea can be seen also from top floor of the Railway Station building itself. On the first floor, the reservation office was also there. In addition to this long beach with fishing boats there are ruins of harbour jetty, ruins of Alleppy ports also.Walked on this beach up to 7 pm till it was dark and the Alleppy light house started beaming lights. On the beach road side, saw a heritage hotel Rahim residency (charges in Euro, in high season Oct to Dec and January to April about Rs 7700 plus 15% taxes, meals per person Rs330 (break fast), light lunch Rs 380, dinner Rs 660) where minimum stay for two nights was mandatory.

Near by on the beach road saw, SBI Alleppy branch, Sea View Park, Harbour restaurant, Govt guest house, where I met its Manager, who agreed to give me one VIP room (Rs150 per day).Took Raju’s bike lift on well lighted way back to Rly Stn due to celebrations of Ramjan giving a festive look near railway station. On the Rly Plate form, saw Coloured Television seating arrangements just like at the Air ports, CCTV, IRCTC restaurant, touch screen PC, Train indication electronic boards etc.

Construction of Ernakulam – Alleppy broad gauge was inaugurated on 15.04.1979 by Madhu Dandvate.Alleppy- Kanyakumari broad gauge(BG) inaugateted on 17.01.1987 by Rajiv Gandhi.New BG railway line inaugurated on 15.10.1989 by Madhav Rao Scindia.

10.10.2007(Wednesday) Stay in Alleppy (Alapuzha), sight seeing of back waters

05.00 am : Got up and saw that it was still dark outside.

06.00 am : Had tea at IRCTC restaurant and after fresh up was ready for morning walk

07.00 am : Walked up to the sea beach and saw Women & Children Govt Hospital, Alleppy Beach Resorts (tariff min Rs 1500 max Rs 2990 plus 15% taxes) overlooking the sea beach, fishing boats, Gokulam Residency, where I found its gate closed.

From sea beach, came towards Office of Supdt of Customs, Sea view Park having boating for children, Foam Matting India Ltd (FOMIL) making coir products, where met factory Supervisor Mr Anoop Kumar (of Alleppy) who led to a Picnic Spot worth seeing.

08.00 am : Now walked towards Vijai Park on sea beach, where saw a Malayalam film shooting going on (Director Jaya Ram, Asstt Director Santosh).Talked to Roopesh actor as ACP in film named “Of the People”. Their similar films “For the People”, “By the People” were famous ones. Later I was also invited to join and give a shot in this film as a morning jogger on the beach doing physical exercise.

After finishing my shot, I walked further on this beach and saw Bishop House, Indian Coffee House, Rahim Bunglow, and also saw about hundred years old Sivparvathy temple on the beach.Met temple Pujariji Pt Vinod from Jamnagar (Gujrat).

In this Alleppy Sivparvathy temple, unusually I was listening Hindi Bhajans, Hanuman Chalisa etc. I also found Hindi scripts in this Hanuman temple “Om Anjani Sutay Vidyameywaya Putraya Dhimahi Tanno Hanumat Prachodayat”. Went inside the Sivparvathy temple and met the Manager and saw one Pujari meditating within the back ground audio cassette run Mantra “Om namah Shivay…Om namah shivay…”

Saw another unusual feature of Kerala Tourism, that the sea beach was being cleaned by a group of women sweepers clad in green Saries and grey jacket. Motor Car driving learners were trying their hands on the beach road and also on an open ground in front of PWD guest house.Phone from my elder daughter Mrs Aradhana Mishra.

Now walked into the premises of SBI Main branch headed by an AGM Mr Madhawan. This building is owned by SBI since the time of its predecessors Imperial Bank of India.

Also saw the Swimming Pool Academy near PWD rest house.

09.00 am: Came back to Rly retiring room after taking Idlies and tea in IRCTC restaurant

12.00 noon : Met Rly Stn Manager Mr Robinson John and thankfully returned the room key to Station Master. I was the only occupant to this double bedded room allotted to me.

12.15 pm : Reached PWD rest house by rikshaw (Rs10), met the caretaker Mr Prasad and occupied the VIP room for two days (Rs300). The two attendants Kamal and Saji guided me how best to see and enjoy the famous back waters of Alleppy, most economically.

Travel by bus from Alleppy to Muhamma and then by ferry to & fro Kumarkom throughVembanad Lake

12.30 pm : As guided, I took a Pulzar bike lift ( Mohd Afzal of Centurian Bank Alleppy ) up to KSRTC bus station and boarded sub-urban bus going to Muhamma (Rs6)

13.15 hrs : Walked from Muhamma bus stand up to nearby Muhamma Jetty to board next SWTD( State Water Transport Deptt) Aquabus steel boat ferry (Rs5) to Kumarakom (9Km run in about 45 minutes) through back waters of Vembanad lake (looking like Chilika lake), Meenachil river mouth meeting the sea. In between saw beautiful Island Pathiramanal with flocks of only birds living there (a bird sanctuary) and so far unhibited. Uninhibited. bird sanctuary

Kumarkom can also be reached from Alleppy by road going to Kotayyam through Thanneermukkam Bund where sea water and river water are divided.

On way to Kumarkom, I saw well decorated house boats, canoes, fishermen and water weeds, floating hyacinths etc

A few days later I saw a news paper (Sunday Express of 14.10.2007) report stating that “Waterweeds and hyacinths enroute Kumarkom – Muhamma got curled up in the engine of the Aquabus steel boat of SWTD hardly fifteen minutes after it left the Kumarkom Jetty at 3 pm and the gear system got stuck due to heavy load, eventually making it lifeless carrying about 60 passengers on board”

13.45 hrs : Had lunch (Rs20) at Paddy Field Restaurent where Binoy ( of Kumarkom ) was very helpful. Talked to Roychadhury ( an Engineer ), and his wife ( working for BSNL ), who had come from NOIDA to see Alleppy etc and had stayed overnight here at Tharavadu (which means family home ) Heritage Home owned by Mrs Renu Joseph and her husband Mr Joseph John ( of Kotayyam ).Talked with Renu, John and their Heritage Home Manager Mr Murali.

16.15 hrs : For return journey, boarded ferry from Kumarkom to Muhamma and then by bus from Muhamma passing through many small villages enroute reaching Alleppy by about 19.15 pm. Bought fruits ( apples and oranges ) from Fruits market in Alleppy.

19.30 hrs : Reached PWD rest house. Ate fruits. Phone calls from younger sister Shobha, elder son in law Peeyush, elder daughter Aradhana and grand daughter baby Karika.

11.10.2007(Thursday) Travel by Bus Alleppy to Trivendrum, to & fro

05.00 am : Got up and went for morning walk on the sea beach.Took tea at the beach itself. On return, I saw that my VIP carpeted room No. 4 was spacious with sofa sets, but no working lights in toilet & staircase.Talked with room attendant who was helpless like in any Govt Deptt.

07.00 am : Discussed today’s plan of visits. Saji helped and I decided to visit Kovallam beach near Thiruvantapuram and return back to Alleppy by evening.

08.00 am : Since no train was available before 11.30 am, so I decided to go from Rly Stn to KSTC Bus Station ( Rs3.50 ) and travel by bus from Alleppy to Thiruvantapuram.

08.45 am :.Boarded bus for Thiruvantapuram ( Rs 85 ) on NH 47 mostly running along sea beach side. Saw on way, Ambalapuzha having Medical College and Krishna temple, Kotapally lake, Haripad, Kayamkulam lake, Oachjra, Karunagapally,Amrithapuri Ashram Chavara, Kollam/Quilon, Ashtamudi lake back waters, Chatnoor, Attingal, RBI, Trivendrum Rly Stn Thampanoor,Bus Station situated opposite Rly Stn Trivendrum.

13.15 Hrs : Took lunch ( Rs22 ) at Rly Stn Veg restaurant and coffee ( Rs 5 ) at bus stn. Bought (Rs5) one brown coloured banana ( Kappa Pazham ). These copper brown banana is sold for Rs 5 to Rs 7 each. These are not for taste but for medicinal use. Sometimes in some temples, such bananas are given as Prasadam.

Learnt that Thiruvanthapuram ( Trivendrum ) has around it, the Sahya mountain ranges. Kollam ( Quilon ) has 233 cashew nut factories out of total 265 in whole of Kerala. Kollum-Allapuzha water route through Asthamudi lake ( Kayal ), is a thrilling experience

13.45 Hrs : Availed advance seat reservation (Rs2 ) for Super fast bus from Trivendrum to Alleppy ( Rs 91 ). Saw on way back, SBI Thampanoor, Library, Stadium, Assembly, Distt Panchayat, Kerala Public Service Commission, Kendriya Vidyalay (KV) Pattom, SBI Pattom, SBI PBB, Medical College, SBI Sreekaryam, Kerala State Electricity Board, Kovallam junction at Kazhakuttan, Kaniyapuram, KV Pallipuram, Mangalpuram etc.

Saw on one side of NH 47, Arabian Sea, its beaches, lakes and back waters

18.00 Hrs : Reached back to PWD guest house.Phone to younger son Dr Anupam Ojha and elder daughter Mrs Aradhana Mishra.

12.10.2007(Friday) Sight seeing of Alleppy back waters 11 am to 01 pm by private hired boat for self only through Vembanad Lake; and

Same day travel through Vembanad Lake to Kotayyam by 02.30 pm SWTD boat

06.00 am : went for morning walk on sea beach and took tea there itself.

08.00 am : Walked up to the Railway reservation office next to Alleppy Rly Stn and booked Sr. Citizen ticket ( Rs 320 ) for travel from Nashik road to Hazarat Nizamuddin, New Delhi on 23.10.07 by 2617 Superfast Lakshadweep Mangala Express.

While walking back to PWD guest house from Rly station after having break fast ( Idly & tea ), saw enroute fresh fishes kept for sale eg Nemi ( means King ) @Rs140 / kg, smaller shark Rs 100, Chura ( Tuna ) Rs 50, Live Shells Rs 40, Matti ( for chips ) Rs 20

10.00 am : Checked out from this excellent PWD guest house. The ever helpful attendant Saji gave me his bike lift through markets (saw Mullakkal temple in centre of Alleppy town) and reached Private Ferry Jetty point for sight seeing of back waters by hired canoe well decorated and with very good seating / viewing arrangements. Saji again helped me in contacting / bargaining with the Excellent Travels & Tourist Boat service

11.00 am to 1.00 pm : Paid Rs 350 and hired their full motor boat for sight seeing around Kuttanad from 11 am to 1.00 pm exclusively for me alone with boat owner as guide also.

11.15 am : Starting and passing through small canal, saw Nehru Pavalion ( Boat race point ) on a small Island near mouth of the canal entering Punnamada lake. Saw several well furnished big size house boats lined near the banks of the lake. Saw number of sailing boats in the lake for sight seeing by tourists. All these boats were slow sailing just like this canoe in which I was sailing. Saw villages on small islands along the banks of the canals. Saw small boats (some motorized) parked near individual houses for their personal uses ferrying men / materials across canals.

On these islands some resorts also available to tourists for rentals. All along these canals, dikes are made of stone walls on its both sides. These canals are about 2 meters deep. Its silt is dredged regularly by PWD to keep it navigable

11.30 am : Now saw water sports island looking like a big ground, maintained by Sports Authority of India. Several Snake boats were housed therein.

11.45 am : Surrounded by coconut and banana plantations, saw very large paddy fields lying below sea level called Kuttanad, spread in several acres on about ten islands owned by rich land lords. The excess water from these fields is pumped out in to the canals. Most of these islands are fully electrified.The paddy cultivation is done by permanently kept labourers who man these fields by automated tractors, diesel / power generator sets

12 noon : Halted for some time at Arjun lake resort ( Kairali Ayurvedic Centre ). After taking tender coconut water (Rs12), while returning back, saw many house boats now sailing with cheering tourists. It was looking like Venice (of Holland ) in India.

12.45 pm : Saw Lake Palace Resort Island(looking like five star hotel) near Alleppy Jetty.

13.00 Hrs : Reached back to Alleppy near Govt Jetty.

13.30 Hrs : Took lunch ( meals Rs20) in SAS Restaurant. The caring manager was very helpful. in guiding me how and when to get Govt ferry ( Speed boat ) going to Kotayyam.

02.30 pm : Met co-passenger, a young Biotech Scientist Mr Thomas K V, resident of Mandiram situated at 6 km from Kotayyam on Thekkady Road. He was working for Rubber Research Institute of India (RRII) in Kotayyam.. He had been to NIOT Kavaratti also when he was working in National Institute of Oceanology, Chennai.

Boarded SWTD Ferry, paid fare just Rs 10 each from Alleppy to Kotayyam carrying / picking / dropping passengers of villages on islands enroute canal / lake, halting on canal side jetty, criss crossing on both sides of the canals.

Chanced to see one snake boat on canal side.

Now this ferry was entering the wider National Waterways ( NW like NH ) . Here saw QST Lake, R B block, a newly built church and some old time ruins of houses.

Also saw a dredger on one side of the canal banks and many smaller boats loaded with paddy harvest / fodder grass. These boats in a row were towed by a single motor boat.

Saw several paddy fields on smaller islands on both sides of the canals, looking great.

03.30 pm : Saw small houses in a line under coconut / banana / groves / flower plants on both sides of the canals. It was cloudy weather and white birds were flying in a V shaped formation above these canals.

04.15 pm : Now Kotayyam is 5 km away. Ferry entered in less wide canals. Saw marshy land on both sides and small bridges across canals, liftable to allow the ferry to sail in and cross these bridges. Here we could see now small bunglows on both sides of the canals.

Alappuzha (Malayalam: ആലപ്പുഴ), traditionally known as Alleppey, is a town in Alappuzha District of Kerala state of southern India. A town with picturesque canals, backwaters,beaches, and lagoons, it was described as the one of the places known as Venice of the East by Marco Polo (1292). It is the administrative headquarters of Alappuzha District.

Kuttanad, the rice bowl of Kerala with the unending stretch of paddy fields, small streams and canals with lush green coconut palms, was well known even from the early periods of the Sangam age. History says Alappuzha had trade relations with ancient Greece and Rome in Antiquity and in the Middle Ages, as well as with other parts of India.

Alappuzha is bordered by Pathanamthitta and Kottayam districts on east, Kollam district on south, Ernakulam district on north and the Arabian Sea on west.

Alleppey Coastal Plains are formed of Quaternary sediments. A series of dunes and ridges marking the repeated regressional and transgressional events characterize this coastal plain. Soil of the area belongs to the great group of Tropopsamments - Tropofluvents, commonly called Coastal Alluvium. Major water bearing formations are Tertiary sedimentary formations and weathered and fractured crystalline formations. The land form possesses ridge and swale topography formed in the late Quaternary geologic period.

Many traders from Gujarat came and settled down here to do trading, leading to the presence even now of a Gujarati community in the town. Alappuzha is a centre for coir industries. Later coir(different kinds of rope made from coconut fibre) became a major product of the town, both for local and world markets.

Public Transport Boat service in Kerala

Alappuzha is now the hub for backwater tourism in Kerala. House boats locally called "Kettuvallam" are available on hire on a daily basis as well as for longer durations to take visitors on the old waterways. These house boats in general have 2 bedrooms and attached bathrooms. Some of the boats have the bedrooms fitted with air conditioners. A routine trip includes food cooked on board in the traditional Kuttanad style. Alappuzha is unique in that it is the only district in Kerala without forest.

House Boat, Punnamada Backwaters, Alappuzha

The main cultural and spiritual events of Alappuzha are Chambakkulam Moolam boat race,Chettikulangara Bharani and Nehru Trophy boat race.

The picturesque CSI Christ Church in Alappuzha town was built in 1818 by the first CMS (Church Missionary Society) missionary to the erstwhile state of Travancore, Rev. Thomas Norton. It was the first Anglican Church to be established in Travancore. Famous religious destinations are

Mullakkal Temple located in the heart of Alappuzha city, dedicated to the goddess Rajarajeswari. Basically the temple was a palace of Chembakasseri kingdom and later dedicated to Sree Raja Rajeshwari Devi. Mullakkal Chirappu is one of the main festival time for Alappuzha people. Devotees throng the temple in large numbers to seek the blessings of the Devi . The major attraction of the temple is its top opened Sreekovil, specially made for Vana Durga (Durga in Naure or Forest as a whole).The nine day Navarathri festival is celebrated with all festivities in Alappuzha, particularly the last two days, Mahanavami and Vijayadasami.

Payasam, Vada, Appam are normally offered to the Goddess as Naivedyam. The first Sunday of December is celebrated in this temple as a women's festival. On that Day all functions of the temple are carried out by women only. The temple timings are 5 AM to 10.30 AM and between 5 to 8 PM.

The entrance of the Haripad Subrahmanya Swami temple

Chettikulangara Kettukazhcha, conducted every year on the Bharani Nakshathram of Malayalam month ‘Kumbham - It is probably the most amazing cultural visual spectacle in Kerala, similar to the Thrissur Pooram.

Ambalappuzha Sri Krishna Temple.

Snake boat races are the most significant traditional event in Alappuzha. These spectacular regattas are usually held between August and October, and involve long thin boats powered by up to 120 oarsmen. The most famous snake boat races are the Nehru Trophy Boat Race and Champakulam Moolam Boat Race.

Water Transport

The regular water transport is carried out by Kerala State Water Transport Department.The schedules are as follows.

SLNO	FROM	TO	TIME	ROUTE
1	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY	05.05	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
2	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM	05.30	(Via Kuppapuram - C Block)
3	ALAPPUZHA	PULLATHUSERRY	05.55	(Via Punnamada - Aryad)
4	ALAPPUZHA	EDATHUA	06.15	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
5	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM	06.50	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
6	ALAPPUZHA	KAYALPURAM	07.20	(ViaSoman - Kuppapuram - Pandissery)
7	ALAPPUZHA	EDATHUA(Ltd)	07.30	(Via >Kannitta> - Venattukadu)
8	ALAPPUZHA	KOTTAYAM	07.30	(ViaChithira - Pattaserry - Vettikadu)
9	ALAPPUZHA	KIDANGARA	08.00	(ViaC Block - Lisieu)
10	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDI	08.30	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
11	ALAPPUZHA	KOLLAM (Tourist)	09.30	(Via Thottappally - Aayiramthengu-Amrithapuri-Chavara)
12	ALAPPUZHA	KOTTAYAM	09.35	(ViaKuppapuram - Pandissery)
13	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDI	10.00	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
14	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM	10.00	>(Via C Block - Lisieu)>
15	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM	10.15	(Via Kannitta - Venattukadu)
16	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY	11.00	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
17	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM (Super Express)	11.15	(ViaKuppapuram - C Block)
18	ALAPPUZHA	KOTTAYAM	11.30	(ViaSoman Jetty kuppapuram - Pullathussery)
19	ALAPPUZHA	KAINAKARY SCHOOL	12.00	(Via kuppapuram - Pandissery)
20	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM(Super Express)	12.00	(Via Kannitta - Goventha - Venattukadu)
21	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY(Super Express)	12.30	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
22	ALAPPUZHA	PULINKUNNU	13.00	(Via Kuppapuram- Ayiraveli - Nedumudy)
23	ALAPPUZHA	CHANGANACHERRY	13.00	(Via Soman - Kuppapuram - C Block)
24	ALAPPUZHA	PULINKUNNU	13.45	(Via Kuppapuram - Pandissery - Venattukadu)
25	ALAPPUZHA	CAMPAKKULAM	13.55	(Via Kannitta-Kainakary-Ayiraveli )
26	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM	14.00	(Via C- Block -Kuppappuram - Chithira )
27	ALAPPUZHA	KOTTAYAM	14.30	(Via Kuppapuram -Chithira)
28	ALAPPUZHA	KAYALPURAM	14.45	(Via Kuppapuram - Panackal Thodu)
29	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM	15.00	(Via Kuppapuram - C Block)
30	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY	15.15	( Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
31	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY(Super Express)	15.45	( Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
32	ALAPPUZHA	KANNITTA	16.20	(Via Kuppapuram - C Block)
33	ALAPPUZHA	MICHAEL CHURCH	16.15	(Via Kuppappuram - C Block
34	ALAPPUZHA	PAYIPPAD	16.45	(Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
35	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY	16.45	(ViaKuppapuram - Pandissery - Venattukadu)
36	ALAPPUZHA	CHANGANACHERRY	16.45	(Via Soman - Kuppapuram - Venattukadu)
37	ALAPPUZHA	KOTTAYAM	17.15
38	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY	17.30	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
39	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM	17.45
40	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY	18.20	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
41	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY	18.30	(ViaKuppapuram - Pandissery - Venattukadu)
42	ALAPPUZHA	CERUKARA	18.30	(Via Soman Punnamada - Pullathussery)
43	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY (Super Express)	18.45	(ViaKuppapuram - Pandissery - Venattukadu)
44	ALAPPUZHA	NEDUMUDY	19.15	(Via Kannitta - Ayiraveli)
45	ALAPPUZHA	MICHAEL CHURCH	19.15	(Via C Block-Kavalam)
46	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNAPURAM (Super Express)	19.30	(Via Kuppapuram - Pandissery )
47	ALAPPUZHA	VENATTUKADU	20.00	(Via Kannitta-Venattukadu)
48	ALAPPUZHA	KIDANGARA	20.45	(Via Kuppappuram - C Block
49	ALAPPUZHA	KRISHNANKUTTT MMOLA	21.15	(ViaKuppapuram - Pandissery-Pullathussery)
50	ALAPPUZHA	VENATTUKADU	21.30	(Via Kannitta - Goventha)

Alappuzha district has a proud educational history. The district has more than ten Arts and Science Colleges, one Medical College (T.D. Medical College) in the government sector, Engineering College under CAPE (College of Engineering and Management Punnapra) and Polytechnics.

Famous personalities

Mr. A.K. Antony- Thrice Chief minister of Kerala, Indian Defence Minister

Mr. V S Achuthanandan- Chief Minister of Kerala

Mr. Vayalar Ravi - Former Home minister of Kerala, Union Cabinet Minister of Overseas Indian Affairs & Minister for Parliamentary Affairs

Living on Earth may be expensive...but it includes an annual free trip around the Sun.

Kumarakom

— town —

Houseboat at Kumarakom lake

Kumarakom is a tourist village in Kottayam district, Kerala, India. It is a cluster of little islands on the Vembanad Lake in Kerala.

Kumarakom is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna. Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary is a noted bird sanctuary where many species of migratory birds visit

The Vembanad Lake, the largest backwater in Kerala, is habitat for many marine and freshwater fish species and it teems with Karimeen (Pearl spot), shrimp (chemmeen in the local language) and prawns. The bird sanctuary extends over 14 acres (57,000 m²), and came into existence following preservation efforts from the government.

It is a major tourist attraction.

The Aruvikkuzhi Waterfalls is another natural attraction in Tauranga area. These waterfalls are located 18 kilometers from Kumarakom Lake Resort and has surfing water flowing down the mountains.

The place has expanses of mangrove forests, paddy fields and coconut groves. Fruits like Banana, Mango, Jackfruit, Ambazhanga, Puli, Chaambenga, Peraycka, Aathaycka and Pineapple grow here.

Also, cocoa and coffee, chena(yam) and chembu(colocasia, grow well and were cultivated under the coconut trees. This rich agricultural environment is mainly irrigated using interspersed waterways and canals of the Meenachil river. The smaller canals are often lined by hibiscus plants which lean partly over the canals to form a green canopy, from which hang the lovely hibiscus flowers.

In the olden days, when the bund separating the backwaters from the sea was not yet built, the water in the canals moved in and out with the sea tide and it was salty. After the Thanneermukkam bund was constructed, the connection to the open sea was not free anymore, and so the tidal movement of the water in the canals stopped. It stagnated and then plenty of water hyacinths started growing densely in the canals, forming lovely green carpets with pale lilac flowers carpets.

Since parts of Kumarakom lie at or even below sea level, these parts, as well as the road connecting the place it to Kottayam, used to get flooded with the water from the monsoon rains, which was brought to Kumarakom by rivers arising from the western ghats. Sometimes the floods used to happen suddenly overnight, and then the boats where the only way to commute. Nowadays the roads are much better.

Kumarakom has a wide variety of houseboats. They are used only for tourists these days. A separate boat known as Kettuvallam is used by the people to go fishing or to transport goods. Apart from these, there are elegant special boats like Kochu-odi Vallam, Odi-Vallam, Iruttukutthi Vallam, Churulan Vallam and Chundan Vallam(Snake Boat), which take part in the boat races around Onam time. The Kumarakom boat-race is conducted in the big canal in the centre near the market. There is a private sailing club in Kumarakom, located on the shore of the Vembanad lake.

Kumarakom is one of the most beautiful villages in the world. Foreign visitors used to think that it is like a paradise.

One can access Kumarakom by many means:

• By air: via Cochin International Airport and the Trivandrum International Airport
• By rail: via Kottayam
• By boat: From Muhamma (near Alappuzha) to Kumarakom Jetty.
• By road:(16 kilometres) Buses and taxis are easily available at all times of the day from Kottayam.

Traditional boats moored at a lagoon

It is a unique experience that will beckon the visitors time and time again as there are several activities for visitors.

The Bird Sanctuary can be visited by canoes, which can be arranged with local fishermen at the entrance to the sanctuary. A two-hour rowing canoe trip is quite cheap, and is best undertaken in the evening or early morning to avoid the afternoon sun.

House boats or speed boats can cover longer distances but cost more to hire.

Taj Garden Retreat the first modern tourist resort in Kumarakom is established in the Victorian two storied bungalow built by Alfred George Baker in the year 1881, on huge pieces of Teak wood rafters packed in mud as a base. This house on the lake at Kumarakom was the house of four generations of the Baker family, for over hundred years. The bird Sanctuary and the two storied Bungalow built by Mr.A G Baker on the muddy land are places of interest for tourists from all over the world. The bungalow still remains grand but silent reminder of an age and people whose hard work cannot be erased by time.

God of Small Things

Arundhati Roy's The God of Small Things is set in Ayemenem or Aymanam village, which adjoins Kumarakom. The explosive success of this novel has given some added tourism impetus to this area. The Taj Garden Retreat hotel complex is centered around a building that is called "History House" in the novel; it was built by British missionary Alfred George Baker, whom the locals called "Kari Saipu" (possibly an elided form of "Baker Sahib"), as in the novel.Four generations of Bakers lived in the house until 1962, speaking Malayalam, and even wearing the mundu. The Baker Memorial School, Kottayam, was started by a daughter of this family in 1925. The Baker family's house is in ruins in the novel, as it was in reality before was developed into a hotel and has been restored by the Taj group. The Ayemenem house, where Arundhati Roy spent part of her childhood (like the twins in the story), can also be visited in the village, which can be reached by boat along the Meenachil river that figures prominently in the story.

The Only Real Heritage Home in Kumarakom, kottayam, kerala

Enjoy the ambiance of a traditional Kerala house in the banks of the cool and calm Kumarakom backwaters. Tharavadu, which means family house in local language, Heritage Home is a 120 years old Traditional Kerala Syrian Christian family house, located near the river bank. The recently renovated house is surrounded with small rivers and natural beauty.like munnar, thekkady and 150 km from kovalam