SushilOjhaRetiredManagerSBI

Sushil Ojha (60) of Dehradun as pillion with Pradip Tiwari (30) on his Enfield Bike after he alone whole night driving from Chandigarh

MANALI TO LEH

15.07.2008 TO 17.07.08

Caretaker of Lahaul Spiti house Manali flanked by Pradip Tiwari (left) and Sushil ojha (right)
Pradip Tiwari at Hidimba temple Manali gate shot with a white rabbit in his arms
Sushil ojha in thinking pose at Hidimba temple Manali
Pradip Tiwari at Hidimba Temple Manali
Sushil Ojha at Hidimba temple Manali
Starting from Manali
At Rohtang pass it was already cloudy evening
Night stayAt Keylang at the residence of DPRO Mr Raman Sharma,PCS
with six other bikers from Punjab(on their two bikes and one scooter)
At Barlachala
At Sarchu

At Khardungla ( world's highest motorable road)
Pradip tighting the luggaage on bike

Manali : 15 Jul 08 (Tuesday) Hotel Raj Palace,Manali(Distt Kulu)Himachal Pradesh

05:30 AM

It was drizzling. Got up. After tea without sugar ,walked out of hotel. Unlike in shimla where the roads out side the hotel were deserted till about 08:00 AM except the morning walkers, here in Manali , there were lot of tourists on the Mall Road and on the Bus / Taxi stand. This is very busy Inter State (long distance) Bus Stand. Saw the distance /fare chart from Manali

to Rohtang : 51 KM (Bus fare Rs 50 and shared taxi fare Rs 100 per pax)

to Keylang : 115 KM (Bus fare Rs 110 )

to Leh (J&K) : 474 KM (Bus fare Rs 585 and shared taxi fare Rs 1100 per pax)

Keylang to Leh : 385 Km (Bus fare Rs 475) only one bus departure 2 AM(15 hrs journey )

07:00 AM

Rain had stopped. After fresh up in hotel room, again walked on the Mall Road which is quite small as compared to the Mall Road in Shimla.

08:00 AM

Chanced to see an young man of about 30 ,on his Royal En Field Motor Cycle, well equipped like any long distance road traveler. He was trying to shoot through his high tech camera. The curiosity in me took closer to him when he queried about the location of Lahual Spiti Govt Guest House in Manali. I myself also not being a local, expressed ignorance of the place he wanted to know but instead, I was curious to know as to where he was travelling to and that too alone on his Bike. He was Pradeep Tiwari of Reliance Retails coming from Chandigarh driving alone throughout in the night and had just reached Manali and now was on way to Leh. After wishing him happy and safe journey, I walked on the uphill road about 2 Kms to Hidimba Temple said to be of Mahabharat period. Many starred hotels / cottages / tourist house / guest house were seen on this road which had a panoramic view of entire Manali valley. The forest of Pines ,very old and thick trees were worth seeing in the vicinity of this Temple.

Manali : 15 Jul 08 (Tuesday)

10:00 AM

While returning down hill through short cut road, I again chanced to see Pradeep and his Bike No. DL 4S AK 7839 still unloaded in the premises of some guest house. We saw each other and I entered in that premises. He was talking with the care taker of Lahaul Spiti House where he had prior room booking. I joined to know that he will take bath etc and rest up to 12 noon and there after he will leave for Leh , to day itself. We further talked and then it transpired that he too belongs to Dehra Dun. His father Mr C K Sharma works in Ordance Depot (Raipur)Dehra Dun and has his own house situated at the Shahastra Dhara-Raipur Road Crossing . To give him company even at the age of 61 and with my hip surgical operation in the past , I offered as a pillion rider as an adventure from Manali to Leh which he happily agreed. I left for my hotel to check out by 12 noon by that time after heavy break fast , I visited the Budhist Gompa and SBI branch premises / ATM ,saw pavement sellers of Local variety of Badam/Kaju kernels @ bargained rate of as low as Rs 50/Kg

12:00 noon

With my small handbag, I walked up to Pradeep and found that he was still sleeping in his room. However, hearing my door knockings, he thankfully got up and hurried to take bath etc and got ready but by the time we had tea and he his break fast(bread toast only), it was already about 1 PM. After packing and tying all the baggage on his bike he gave me another spare helmet for my use. I was wearing the only half sweater and the floater sandal in my feet while he was wearing a jeans Bermuda, a full jacket over his body and RedChief leather full boot on his feet. We both tied our helmets and as he also wanted to see Hidimba Temple, we drove uphill road and there he took a number of photographs and video filming up to 2 PM some times also with the help of the foldable tripod which he was carrying in his luggage.

02:30 PM

We exchanged our Mobile Numbers (9897131042 /9915026305) and remembering God, left Manali Mall Road crossing point. The bike meter reading was showing 325 KM and Petrol tank signaling in reserve. The distance board on SH 62 was showing as from Manali

Leh 474 Km,Upasi 424 Km,Pang 310 Km,Sarchu 222 Km, Patsio 162 Km,Baralchala 190 Km

Keylang 115 Km,Rohtang 51 Km, Palchan 09 Km

On the outskirts of Manali valley we crossed bridge over tributary of Beas river. After driving a few Kilo Meters , we crossed a small Petrol Pump at Palchan on the periphery of Manali Town. Per chance suddenly I reminded him about petrol and he returned back.

After filling full tank 12.77 Litres of Petrol for Rs 730.62, we were told that there is no Petrol Pump before Keylang Town (Distt HQ Of Lahaul Spiti).

Palchan : 15 Jul 08 (Tuesday)

A small culvert on the main road in Palchan was under repair and a tractor was crossing through due to which our bike was stuck midway and we were on the verge of falling together with the bike also. As pillion, I was not in a position to get down unless the driver first gets down to allow my getting from front side instead of from back. The driver at the same time also could not get down unless the pillion gets down. The bike had a high rise back rest attachment and all its three sides had loads of baggage tied securely with nylon ropes.

The men on the tractor helped to straighten our bike to enable the bike to move further. This was first taste of adventurous drive to Leh. We drove comfortably thereafter enjoying the sight seeing all around the high mountain till we reached a patch of slippery curve on uphill road where almost all vehicles were getting stuck. Our bike was also stuck in the mud and could move only after the pillion got down and gave a manual push to it. This was the second sticky experience of drive to Leh.

Over all, the road was good with sometimes there were caravan of army heavy vehicles coming from Leh side. HIMANK Border Road Organisation(BRO) personnel and their unit detachment huts / hamlets were occasionally seen on the road sides .Some foreigners were also driving towards Rohtang Pass on their bullet motor cycle with no luggage and some times even without helmet. We cheered each others as we drove on this Hill Road. It was about 4 PM when it started drizzling. As we had nothing with us to protect from rains, we continued to drive without getting too much wet. Then came the famous point of Rahala water fall at 3078 Meters where Bias river was dropping from a hight of about 50 meters and crossing our road. Here it started raining intermittently due to which after covering the bike with a plastic sheet , we stopped for about 1 hour to shoot photos / videos and also play with the falling waters. We took tea bread pakora and butter toast in a make shift canopy covered tea stall and ate mangoes which I was carrying from Jarol 9 Kms before Sunder Nagar on way to Manali yesterday 14^th Jul afternoon (01.:30 PM). Pradeep was so busy in enjoying his shooting spree that he almost took no notice of time running so fast and we had another 100 Km to reach Keylang after crossing the first high range of Rohtang pass.

Rahala Fall : 15 Jul 08 (Tuesday)

05.00 PM

We left Rahala fall point to drive on further uphill road. Upon reaching higher and higher ranges, we saw an almost slopey flat hill top covered with green grass and camping tents /eating points where many foreigners / adventurists were seen trying sky diving. We did not stop here for paucity of time and continued driving till we stopped for a while at Rani Nala –Rohtang Beas Kund (Beas river looking like a small rivulet) and then at thick glacier point on the road itself (once again shooting photos). After half an hour further drive, we reached the top hill point called Rohtang Pass at about 6 :30PM.Traffic on this road was scant now.

Rohtang Pass : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

06:30 PM

We stopped for a while to make mobile calls but could not do so due to no connectivity. It was dusky and all the road side tents were now closed. For some distance the road here was almost flat except few places where the road was crossing ice cold waters flowing down hill from melting glaciers. At one such crossing point called Pagal nala, our feet /shoes and socks were drenched. It was icy cold wind. Remember, I had only half thin sweater and no socks in my floater shoes. But Pradeep’s drenched socks in his wet Boots/feet had to be dried up some how to drive further in the darkness of cold night. Luckily one small tent was open. We stopped here to take tea (Rs20). Pradeep took out his socks to dry by hanging through his hands over the fire flames thankfully made available for us by burning some empty card board boxes. After a while the steam started emanating from the wet socks but to make the situation worse, the heals of one nylon sock got burnt making a big hole in it. Pradeep had only this pair of socks. So, the same wet socks had to be used with the help of left over of plastic wrapper used for packing the bread loaf in that shop. Luckily bright moon night helped us commence our journey on an alien land and unknown down hill road with no body to guide when ever the road bifurcated. But again luckily at all such road bifurcations after waiting just for a while some truck passed by and guided us the right road to reach Keylang. Down side of the road, the roars of fast flowing river was heard in the valley of Lahaul Spiti. Small dwellings were seen at the intermittent places named Koksar,Sishu,Gondhala,Tandi before finally reaching Keylang.

Keylang : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

10:00 PM (night)

When we reached Keylang, it was dead night and not a single person was available to guide us the direction of the Govt Circuit House where Pradeep,through his one of the Govt official friends , had pre arranged for night stay. But no person was visible on road side to be able to guide us to locate the Circuit House and a few guidance were just a guess telling misleading approach road. Somehow we could locate a Hotel in a big high rise premises. Happily it was the Circuit House and luckily the mobile connectivity was traced there to contact Pradeep’s friend in Chandigarh who apprised that now his stay is arranged in PWD guest house which could not be pre communicated due to loss of our connectivity. It was further difficulty in locating this PWD premises but again luck had favoured when few persons were seen night walking towards us. On our asking for required guidance and after knowing our identity they apprised that they are the Govt officials working there with DPRO Mr Raman Sharma,PCS and that Mr Sharma was in fact anxiously waiting for our safe reaching that night. Shortly we reached PWD guest house where we met Mr Sharma at 11 PM. It was a cold night and by that time the PWD rooms were now occupied by some other guests. Mr Sharma took us to his official residence and offered his bed room for us followed by tea prepared by his orderly who soon arranged from nearby Dhaba some Dal fry and Chapaties etc to eat. We hurried to wash ourselves with bucket full of water heated by electric rod. I made phone calls to apprise all concerned that I was on way to Leh and was staying in Keylang that night. Pradeep continued his phone calls even past midnight from out side of the room after I had gone to sleep by 12 night. Raman Sharma, a young administrative officer at Keylang HQ of Lahaul Spiti Distt(HP) shared lots of historical facts and some adventurous experiences /information of once earth quake hit valley and its devastations just a few years ago. Keylang is a smaller and congested place in this valley with all sorts of infrastructural difficulties and supply of basic amenities. Serving here a brave & challenging task for the development of people and places. This young Himachal Pradesh cadre administrative officer had equipped himself with PC and internet connectivity in Keylang to remain up to date.

He told us that on the banks of Chandra Bhaga river,there are ruins of Gondhla fort of the then Negi Kings of Lahaul. There is only one Petrol Pump at Tandi at the confluence of Chandra river originating from Chandra Tal and Bhaga river originating from Suraj Tal.

In J&K this Chandra Bhaga river becomes Chenab river.

Keylang : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

05:15 AM

I Got up but Pradeep and Raman were still asleep. Entered in the kitchen and prepared red tea without sugar. Read some old news papers etc and took bath by 7 AM and got ready. Phone to my son Dr anupam in DehraDun. By this time Pradeep and Raman also got up and with the help of orderly after taking tea etc , Pradeep went out to buy two plastic cans for extra Petrol. There after he also got ready. At about 8 AM,we took out the Bike parked near PWD rest house and passed through the new and good bus stand here with facility of night stay in a private guest house. Then we drove about 6 Km back to IOC Petrol Pump at Tandi on the confluence of Chandra Bhaga rivers. We saw a board here indicating that the next petrol pump is only at Leh about 400 Kms away . In between Keylang and Leh , there is no petrol and no phone connectivity . Filled in the bike full tank and the two cans total 14 liters petrol for Rs 840. Next 120 Kms were in Himachal Pradesh and further 265 were in Jammu & Kashmir State.We enjoyed seeing the confluence in the day time and did filming at and near the petrol pump. The distance board placed in Tandi indicated that

Keylang 7 Km , Jespa 30 Km, Darcha 37 Km, Zing Zing Bar 67 Km, Barlachala (4883 M) 82 Km, Kiling Sarai 94 Km, Sarcha (4253 M) 116 Km, Leh 372 Km

Darcha->Patsia(3679M)->SurajTal(4795M)->Barlachala->Sarchu

Rohtang->Koksar 40Km, Tandi->16 Km, Keylang 8 km, Jispa->23 Km, Darcha->7 Km, Patsio->16 Km, Barlachala-> 31 Km, sarchu-> 30 Km, Leh -. 253 Km

11.00 AM

We left Keylang after break fast (Bread toast,Omlet and Tea) in the office of DPRO Mr Raman

11:40 AM

Reached Jespa where tents were seen available for boarding & lodging

12:00 Noon

Padma (L&B) on the road site where a fast flowing rivulet was crossing our road and where the entire village had perished under infamous devastating Lahaul Spiti earth quake debris. Now pain full view of a barren small island of stones can be seen in place of once a lively village. Here we met 6 young boys from Patiala on their 2 bullet motor cycle and 1 Bajaj scooter. We became a group of 8 driving on our Bikes/scooter to Leh. Bought one bottle of mineral water for Rs 20.

Road to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

12:55 PM

A small crystal clear blue water lake Pradeep Tal on the road side

01:00 PM

Reached Patsio where a small army detachment was stationed and one Tyre-tube repairing shop was seen.

01:15 PM

Reached Zing Zang where pegions were seen sitting flying here and there over the road side wide river with less water the name of which we could not know.

01:30 PM

This place looked like a peace full L&B tents/camping zone with snow bound hill tops.

01.55 PM

Again a much bigger blue lake with crystal clear water and snow peaks all around here.

02:00 PM

Now passing Baralchala Pass (4883M) valley through a very good road with a scenic view of snowy golden peaks. Pradeep was capturing all such heavenly scene spread along side road. We noticed that both Chandra and Bhaga rivers were originating from this valley. Chandra & Suraj Tals both located some where here.

02:45 PM

Here was another terrific hill road driving experience, when all our bikes /scooter got tumbled one by one while crossing an ice cold water channel flowing fast down the snow bound mountain. The water level was knee deep flowing over round boulders resulting into silencers/engines getting filled with water due to which the vehicles refused to kick start. We had to wait for engines/carburetors to dry up. Luckily, one of the Patiala boys was a mechanic also and he helped out and all the vehicles again rolled out.

03:00 PM

Now a few kilometers patch of bad road. Though, L&B camps were seen here.

Road to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

03:20 PM

Now it appeared that we were negotiating worse road at. this place perhaps rightly called Killing Sarai. Here we saw a group of young boys on their bi-cycles coming from Leh side.

03:30 PM

But just after about 10 minutes worse part of road driving experience, we were in expanse of a blue valley , where a number of exotic tents / camps / decent eating places both budget and expensive ones. To save time for this long fascinating journey, we had not stopped any where for eating any thing so far. But to satisfy our hunger, while driving we ate some biscuits and took water. I was feeding him the biscuits into his mouth from the back seat and thus he continued to drive.

03:45 PM

A very good road like a drive way with valley & green grass with beautiful flowers all around / tents along side the river . Swiss cottages / Himalayan Tourist Camp-Dorje(above Rs 1000 per pax) / Standard tents & dormitories for budget classes also. Private local individuals have also raised tents /eatables for economy class.(Rs 100 per bed/Rs 50 per rice plate/tea Rs 8)

We were told that Sarchu was another 8 Kms from here where a facility of Lodging / Boarding was available . This Sarchu place is the last point of Himachal Pradesh State and thereafter next such place is a distance of about 100 Kms at Pang in Jammu & Kashmir State.

04:20 PM

Reached Sarchu with L&B tents here also . Now we were entering in J&K state and all our bikes were subjected to security checks by the Army Pickets stationed here. Now the distance board was showing as under :

Pang 88 Km, Tanglangla 156 Km, Upasi 200 Km, Leh 252 Km

04:30 PM

Unlike our expectations this road in J&K was again very good. Wide river.Some special type of grass land with or without flowers. River side raised banks were looking wonderful due to of different designs every now and then. Only nature could do such a marvelous scenery.

Road to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

05:15 PM

Now we reach up hill road called Gata loop ( good uphill road with 21 loops) which ends at the height of 4667 Meters. Pang is now 41 Kms away.

Road to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

06:00 PM

Reached Nakeela at a height of 15,547 Ft. Pang is now 32 Kms away. Down hill starts but just after 4 Km drive again uphill road where some tents were seen. Pang is now 28 Kms away. Two types of shortcut roads were also seen. One for Gattoos load trucks and the other for local walkers / cattles.

06:45 PM

We were at a height of 16670 Ft. Now there was pick up problem in bike. At one such uphill turning point , the bike stopped and fell as I could not get down swiftly. We were alone on the road and no vehicles could be seen with the night approaching fast . All others Patiala boys had gone faster and there was no mobile connectivity. We summoned strength and despite my hurt leg , pushed our bike up to a height where the road was comparatively flat. Luckily, the bike started after few kicks and we proceeded further to reach Pang.

08:00 PM

Reached Pang where all 6 Patiala Boys decided for night stay. We were tired and needed rest. My physical inclination was for calling it a day. Some local people also forbade us for further journey during night because of some recent incidences of robbery / murder etc. Here we could find 2 more boys from Mandi on bike to Leh . They too were in favour of breaking their journey at Pang.

But Pradeep was some how in favour of continuing the night driving to cover another 100 Km so that he can reach Leh tomorrow morning by about 8 AM to receive his friend at the Leh Airport who was coming to join Pradeep. Seeing his eagerness and adventure filled as he is , I agreed to carry on the night journey as an action filled experience on road to Leh . Seeing to such a decision, the same local people suggested us not to stop our bike any where on the road to avoid any chance of robbery etc till we reach some safe camping site for night stay.

Night hill driving to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

Taking due note of all these developments and without wasting any more time on eating etc, he kick started his bike and we were on the road journey again and that too all alone in night. A few kilometers road was good and up hill reaching on palatue type wide and straight road looking like we were driving on an air strip. The white mountains on both sides of the road gave a feeling that we were driving on a snow bound road. Though I was wearing only half thin sweater but the tightness of the helmet on my head was keeping me warm. We were happy to experience such a wonderful journey till we reached few patches of diversion roads

Night hill driving to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

where it was difficult in the night to locate the correct one. Loaded with experiences of night driving , Pradeep could manage to take correct road with the help of bike head light beams. The real trouble started when the road patches turned in to coarse sand and or bike could not move further. Some how we pushed our bike every time to drive but got stuck in next patch of such type of worst road. There was no traffic, no help what so ever. In one such long patch which looked like unending, Pradeep became apprehensive of possible dangers ahead and decided to stop further on ward journey. By now we had covered about 20 Kms from Pang in about 2 hours and going back to Pang would be costing more than one hour. Re commencing journey next morning from Pang would be further costing us time. We felt helpless and started to look for some sort of night shelter on way back journey despite impending threats of life. In this frantic search, we could spot some hutments at a distance in the darkness of night on the road side. Summoning enough courage Pradeep repeated bike horns to get one of the hut doors opened. When we sought help , we found that they were road labour huts and there was hardly any space for them in such a cold night.

We were in dilemma for some time , when we saw a beam of head light coming from Pang towards us and we waited for this vehicle to reach . On our giving hand signal to stop this vehicle , contrary to our expectations , we found this to be a bike stopping near us. And lo , these were the same 2 Mandi boys who were with us till Pang. They told us that after having their dinner at Pang , they thought that all except them have proceeded for Leh. So they also decided to follow us. It was our happy meeting and then Pradeep shared the experience of bad road ahead. Unmindful of the quality of bad road they said that instead of returning back to Pang , let us proceed towards Leh. Since we were four now, we were ready to face any eventuality. We started from here helping each other guessing for the correct route, hand pushing our bikes at times. The road looked flat but the bikes were facing pick up problem. We continued driving up and up without finding any clue of getting any resting place till we reached the highest point where the icy wind made us shiver. Added to that we developed breathing problem and a short of nausea due to empty stomach since I and Pradeep had not taken any lunch or dinner so far. It was past mid night 12:30 and almost exhausted.

We saw here an unlocked small Temple on a raised plate form . The two bikes were stopped. With great difficulty I climbed down the bike and some how crouched into the temple to find that its floor was covered with green carpet and the pictures of some gods/goddess. I nearly collapsed on this carpet in one corner resting my back on the sides of the two walls. I was shivering and was gasping to breathe. After some time, all three also came in with baggage. I opened my bag and took out the woolen white shawl. This shawl was shared by we three. Pradeep opened his bag and took out his sleeping bag. Out of we four, I was 61 years old but

Night hill driving to Leh : 16 Jul 08 (Wednesday)

all others were young men but all were facing similar problem. Pradeep said that his feet were ice cold due to wet socks. I suggested that he should rub his feet so that the warmth of sleeping bag might give some comfort. The two Mandi boys could not bear the shivering cold coupled with breathing problem and decided to continue their journey for rest in some camp. When they wanted some petrol from us saying that their bike was in reserve, I guessed that under the influence of liquor, they were travelling from Pang unmindful of prior filling of the petrol in their bike. Any way, Pradeep offered and asked them to take some petrol from cans. After taking petrol they left and we two passed night in that temple.

Tanglala (17582 Ft) : 17 Jul 08 (Thurseday)

05:30 AM

I could not sleep as I was shivering and gasping through out the night waiting for morning time. At about 05:30 , I called Pradeep but he did not respond. I thought not to disturb him.

06:30 AM

At about 06:30 , he also got up. He said he was feeing giddiness and exhausted. So we rested for another hour.

07:30 AM

At about 07:30 , a crowd of Laddakhi looking women started pouring in this Temple with their Pooja offerings (cash, ilaichi dana, agarbatti,dhoop,flowers) , unmindful of we two strangers with our baggage spread open scattered there. This continued for some time and after that wrapped in my shawl and with my trembling legs I came out of the Temple to see the bright sun light and read that this Temple was erected in 1969 with the endowment fund of the then army unit commanders. Before that a sadhu was reported to be meditating at the same place

In the centre of the two lane wide road in front of this Temple, a cemented plate form was erected with three sides indicating the name of this place, distance, direction etc. The icy wind was blowing like a current. A road side tent was also there containing some resting benches/torn blankets and a notice board that this tented shop remains open from 12 noon to 12 night.

This place Tanglang la at 17582 Ft was the second highest motorable road in the world.

Pradeep also got up and took photographs. Almost all the truck drivers stopped here to pay their Pooja offerings packet of ilaichi dana. One of such packet was opened by Pradeep and we took some ilaichi danas to eat to energise ourselves so that we could drive further.

Tanglala (17582 Ft) : 17 Jul 08 (Thurseday)

08:00 AM

We checked our bike and petrol cans only to find that at least 5 liters of petrol has been taken away by the 2 Mandi boys in the night. We emptied both cans of petrol into the bike fuel tank and packed / tied securely all our baggage onto the bike and left Tanglang la on the down hill journey now passing through a valley which was now protecting us from cold wind. The warmth of bright sun was gradually making us comfortable. The oxygen supply was also increased. So no breathing problem and no pick up problem in the bike. The road some times was bad to worse but because of down hill journey, the driving was now comfortable. Yet Pradeep was still not feeling well. So after a few kilometers drive Pradeep wished to sleep over the road side stones in soothing warmth of bright sun. We stopped our bike and found that my bag had loosened and was about to fall. Luckily we did not loose this bag though one glass item got broken in side the bag itself. Pradeep slept there for some time and I sat down to write down my diary. Some foreigners boys and girls coming from Leh on their bikes exchanged greetings with us basking there.

10:00 AM

Pradeep got up at 10 AM and tied the loosened bag tightly and commenced our journey. Now Rumtse was 28 Kms, Upasi was 60 Kms and Leh 111 Kms away.

10:45 AM

We reached Rumtse within 45 minutes drive. And our road was passing through an Army detachment protected area here as such our entry was subjected to security check. We were eagerly searching for availability some tea & break fast etc and as such spotting the two tents/camps/eating point, we stopped our bike and we dumped into waiting chairs in the warmth of the bright sun in front of these tents.

Rumtse : 17 Jul 08 (Thurseday)

08:00 AM

We washed our hands & face with hot water. During talks with the tents owner, we came to know that our 2 Mandi boys had slept in their tent and left for Leh at about 8 AM. After some time we were served with hot tea, bread with egg omelet, Britania cake followed by hot chapattis and subjee. After eating all this, Pradeep wished to sleep in the warmth of the beds lying under the tent to recoup enough energy. I kept sitting in one of the chairs kept around a high table in the sun. After some time I spread my legs over one of the other chairs and closed my eyes while basking. My entire body was aching due to pillion riding bearing all the jerks during this long & arduous hill journey on bike risking my once operated hip joint. Any further hip damage may now be risky at this old age. So I started thinking of returning by bus instead of as pillion on bike. But to give company to Pradeep was also in my mind, so I was waiting for the other 6 Patiala boys who might be reaching here around 12 noon.

Yes it happened so and all these 6 boys reached here and I signaled to stop them. I shared our experiences of night stay at Tangla La and they shared their experience of night stay at Pang. All of them wanted to sleep due to fatigue arising out of breathlessness in Pang also. When enquired about their return journey with Pradeep, they apprised that they would be staying for some time in Leh. In the meantime energised Pradeepgot up. Now they slept there and we left for Leh via Upasi. The road was very good and almost plane. The drive and the scenery were enjoyable.

Reached Upasi . After crossing one bridge over River Sindhu, the road bifurcated. We took the two lane well maintained road to Leh. River Sindhu was running almost parallel to our road. Small villages/town ships/old Gompas came across us, yet our mobile connectivity could not be restored. Much before Lah there are many army disciplined establishments one after the other, spread on both sides of the wide road. Then came the hill road with sand dust and loose soil giving a look like a desert. It was hotter here. In a road side small market, we stopped at a STD/PCO point to make calls. Pradeep could contact his friend who had already arrived by air in the morning and now he was staying in a hotel. He noted down his address.

02:30 PM

Reached Leh. Saw spacious magnificent administrative buildings and wide roads. We spotted a petrol pump and vehicular traffic like any other Indian cities. When Pradeep was heading towards hotel of his friend, I wished to be dropped near Main Bus Stand of Leh to enable me to make my staying arrangement near bus stand . It would be convenient for me to move around by bus to see in and around Leh.

Pradip with a foreigner travelling alone in his self driven vehicle fully equipped with bed room attached toilet TV and GPS system etc


At Petrol pump near Keylang
Pradip with his Red Chief boot and pair of socks drenched in water while others helped him cross this icy cold water current down hill
seen sitting gasping for oxygen on temple entry door, wrapped in his white shawl and helmet tied on his head, Sushil ojha at 17582 ft Tanglala Pass ( world's second highest motorable road) after passig night in this temple with

At Rumteq tent house having some food after remaining practically food less through out previous day and night.