SushilOjhaRetiredManagerSBI

The Traveller Sushil Ojha from Dehradun

Shade of coconut tree on white sandy beach, boats sailing in blue lagoon of Kavaratti Island

Kavaratti Island' two ends with chicken neck where sea seen on both sides

Interiors of full AC Minicoy ship

One of the cross roads in Kavaratti

Birds santuary near Muhamma inAlleppy back waters

The Minicoy ship sailing from Willingdon Island (Cochin) to Kavaratti Island(Lakshadweep)

The bigger Bharat Seema ship from Kavaratti Island to Willingdon Island (Cochin)

SUSHIL OJHA, at 60, TRAVELS FROM NORTH INDIA ( Dehra Dun ) to SOUTH INDIA ( Ernakulam / Cochin, LakshaDweep, Kumarakom / Alapuzza back waters Thiruvanthapuram, Kotayyam,Kumili,Thekaddy-Mattupetty Dam,Periyar lake,Munnar hill station,Aluva,Thrissur,Guruvayur temple,back to Ernakulam and then to Nashik in Maharashtra FROM 17.09.2007 TO 25.10.2007

Travel from Dehradun to Ernakulam via worth seeing famous Konkan Railway

17.09.2007 (Monday)

Left Dehradun by 7 am Chennai Super fast Express train reaching Ghaziabad by 1.30 pm. Bought fresh apples and chana,chiwda,moongfali to eat after roasting these three as CFN (Cholesterol Free Namkeen) oil less snacks.Stayed overnight at Dilshad Colony Delhi flat

18.09.2007 (Tuesday)

Left New Delhi by 9 am Laksha Dweep – Mangla Super fast Express for Ernakulam (3066 km) via Mathura,Agra,Gwalior,Jhansi,Bhopal reaching Itarasi at10 pm night. The other co- travellers were, one foreigner going to Goa and four Keralite Students going back to their home towns in Kozikode (Calicut) - Jabir P.Nisar N K,Uvais V N,Samad M, presently studying their M.Sc.(Physics) at Aligarh Muslim University in UP.

I learnt from them that in Malayalam language : See you again(Phir Milenge) is Pinne Kanam,Just for nothing(Aise Hi) is Chumma,,Then or there after(Phir) is Pinna(e), OK (Theek or Achha) is Seri, Please sit down(Baithiye) is Irikyu,Water(Paani) is Vellam, Just wait(Ruko) is Nikke, Neem is Vepu, No(Nahi) is Illa, Here(Yahan) is Ivida, There(Wahan) is Avida, Joke is Tamasha,Banana(Kela) is Pazham, Coconut (Nariyal) is Thenga, Rice (Chawal) is Chor,You (Aap) is Nee, Your (Aapka) is Ninte, My (Mera) is Ente, My name (Mera Naam) is Ente Peru, What (Kya) is Enth(u), Is(Hai) is Aane, Come here(Yahan Aao) is Inge wa, Come(Aao) is Raa, Go(Jao) is wara, Dhabas are Thattu Kadas , Ground nut(Moong fail) is Kapilandi, Chiwada is Awil, Eaten (Kha Liya) Thinnu or Kaicho, Eaten feast (Dawat kha Liya) is Saadya Thinnu or Saadya Kaicho, Tell (Bolo) is Parey or Para, Five(Paanch) is Anja, Ten(Dus) is Patta), Idiyappam is Kerala breakfast made from rice vermicelli served with chana masala curry While Thiruvantapuram is the Political Capital, Ernakulam is Commercial Capital and Thrissur is Cultural capital of Kerala State. For the first time, it is in Ernakulam houses that I saw the Aluminium frame Door Jalies Motor vehicles Regn No.in Ernakulam starts with KL07, it starts with UA07 inDehradun

19.09.2007 (Wednesday)

Train reached Mammad by 5 am and proceeded for Nashik Road, Igatpuri, Kalyan (Mumbai).Now the train was running on worth seeing famous Konkan Railway, passing through Western Ghats, tunnels after tunnels, via Panvel..Chiplun..Ratnagiri..reaching Madgaon (Goa) at 9 pm, Udipi..Kankanadi..Kasargod..Kannur..Thallaserry..Vadakara etc

20.09.2007(Thursday)

Reached Kozhikode (Calicut) by 7 am and proceeded for Tirur..Shorannur .. Thrissur..

Aluva..Mahe (though in Kerala but part of UT Puduchery)..Arriving at Ernakulam South Jn by 1.30 pm. Our host Mr Ram Kumar Tiwari (Chief Manager SBI NRI Branch Kochi) had come to receive me and to drive me up to SBI guest house, where he had made my staying arrangement up to 24^th Sept.

This SBI guest house is located in 55/1009,Kuruvithadam Building, near Padma Jn, MG Road,Ernakulam.(Phone No. 0484 3295121 ),where the caretaker Krishna Kumar, living alone , is from nearby Vypeen Island. His son Arjun, class VI student in Vypeen, had visited his father and also met me here on 22/23^rd Sept.

In this guest house, the other co-occupants on 20/21^st Sept were:

Mr K Kurian Koshi, AGM SBI Overseas branch, Ernakulam

Mr Noranho, CM SBI RASMECC, Kozhikode

Mr Murthy, Manager (I&A) SBI Corporate Centre Inspection & Audit Deptt

Mr Karunakaran, Dy General Secretary, SBI Supervisory Staff, Thiruvanthapuram

21.09.2007(Friday)

Went for morning walk and visited RBI Guest house on Banerjee Road, Ernakulam.

Also visited our host Mr Ram kumar Tiwari and had lunch with his family (wife Shalini, daughter baby Raashi). Shalini’s father Mr Shyam Sunder Sharma is from Baldeopuri of Mathura in UP. Talked about their visit to Osaka, Japan during Tiwari’s posting as an officer in SBI Osaka Branch, Japan.

22.09.2007(Saturday)

Went for morning walk and visited Ravipuram, MG Road, Cochin Shipyard, Subhash Park and Marine Drive Road.

Went for day walk and visited offices of Kerala Tourism Development Corporation and then SBI NRI Branch Ravipuram. Saw Arya Vaidyashala (Kochi) on MG Road.

For my voyage to Laksha Dweep and stay in Kavaratti Island,

Mr Ram Tiwari talked over phone

(i) to Mr Prathes, Branch Manager SBI Kavaratti and then to Ealias of “Al Hind”. Mr Tiwari sends e- mail to Laksha Dweep Tourism Office-Willingdon Island, Cochin. (website:lakshadweep tourism.com)

(ii) to Mr Neuman (9495336202) and gets information that as a special favour, one seat may be arranged for 8 days voyage starting on 27^th Sept and back on 02^nd Oct against payment of charges Rs14000 in their bank account number 24675. For home tourism the charges were Rs4300x2=Rs 8600 plus Rs2000 onwards per day for hotel accommodation Such high charges were not acceptable to me,

(iii) to one Doctor who happens to be father of Shrishti, the classmate of Tiwari’s daughter Raashi. This doctor gave contact number of his friend who happens to be Air craft Pilot flying to Laksha Dweep Islands. But this pilot replied back that presently he was away to Delhi.

Went for evening walk on Marine Drive Road in Ernakulam.

23.09.2007(Sunday)

Went for morning walk from Padma Junction to Marine Drive, High Court Jetty, Police club, Chrch, Banerjee Road, M G Road. Went in side the Ferry going from High court Jetty to Bolgatty, Vallarpadam, Vypeen, and Willingdon Island, Cochin Port trust.

In the afternoon, went to Banerjee Road, High court, NIOT (National Institute of Oceaonology), Central Marine Fisheries Research Institute, ABAD Marine plaza, Bolgatty Island, Bolgatty Palace (now a heritage hotel) Visited and saw Kannimel Furnished Cottages near Bogatty Palace Hotel.

After experiencing heavy rains here, went onto Vallarapadam Island and Vypeen Island. Saw Chinese fishing boats, Ferry Jetty point to Port Cochin / Ernakulam / Willingdon Island. Cherai beach (yet to be seen) is at a distance of 18 km from Vypeen Island.

24.09.2007(Monday) Hectic day in Willingdon Island, Kochi

Did not go for morning walk due to rains

Vacated SBI Guest house room by 8.30 am leaving my small luggage there only in the custody of its caretaker.

In his official car, I accompanied Mr Koshi, AGM SBI Overseas branch office situated in Willington Island. Enroute saw Naval Base Kochi, Port Trust Kochi,

In the same car I went up to Laksha Dweep Administration Office, Kochi near SBI Willington Island Branch.

Met Mr Neuman KM at 9.45 am in the Laksha Dweep Administration office complex handling official travel agency named SPORTS ( Society for Promotion of Nature Tourism and Sports : LakshaDweep Tourism )

He helped me a lot in providing all necessary information and clarifications regarding voyage to Laksha Dweep Islands.

Various ships / vessels sailing to Laksha Dweep Islands are: Tipu Sultan, Bharath Seema, Minicoy, Amini and DweeppSetu. For ticketing and sailing schedules internet website is : lalskadweepshipticket.com.in

However, Mr Neuman, after understanding my deep desire to travel by ship only and not by any luxury cruise, then he advised me to contact Secretary to the Administrator, Union Territory of Laksha Dweep in Kochi Office.

Met at 10 am Mr A Balakrishnan, Secretary to the Administrator, through his PRO/Steno.

He too, after understanding my sincere and strong desire to visit UTL(Union Territory Of Laksha Dweep) by ship only, asked his PRO to get one application form for Rs50 and requested me to provide local SBI references and recommendation or a declaration duly signed by Branch Manager SBI Kavaratti Branch (Laksha Dweep Islands).

I apprised Mr Ram Tiwari of these requirements who in turn, talked over phone with Mr Prathesh in Kavaratti , requesting him to sign the filled up prescribed declaration form faxed to him and fax it back to the Secretary UTL office Fax No. 0484 2668155.

And then, from UTL office, I walked back to SBI Overseas branch office and requested Mr Koshi, AGM SBI Overseas Branch, who very kindly and quickly gave his signed recommendation on the Bank’s letter head.

With this recommendation letter, when I walked back and entered the chamber of Secretary to the Administrator, Mr A Balakrishnan, he informed me that the signed and faxed declaration form from Kavaratti has also been received by him. Happy with such quick responses, he immediately authorised issue of entry permit.

His steno got it ready duly signed by the Secretary, Union Territory Of Lakshadweep.

This Entry Permit F No.3/2/06-CR dated 24.09.2007 was for my visiting Kavaratti, Agatti, Bangaram Islands from 24.09.2007 to 09.10.2007 ( 15 days ) to & fro Kochi.

Then Mr Balakrishnan, again hearing my anxiety in getting the ship tickets at the earliest possible time, suggested me to offer emergency reserve quota on the ship sailing on 27^th Sept and for this, asked me to contact him again on 26^th Sept, morning.

The reception counter official Mr Dharmendra ( a Gujrati ), helped me in knowing more about ships / fare etc and also took me for lunch in the cafeteria where manager (a Bihari) gladly offered well served vegetarian lunch thali.

After completion of all the required tasks, I walked to nearby Jetty for Ferry to reach Fort Cochin Island, where I met Mrs Francis (Chief Manager, SBI Kochi Branch). As advised by her, I took an auto rikshaw, reached SBI Staff Training Centre, Kochi located on the sea beach. Here, introducing myself as ex Manager (training), I met Mr Vinai Kumar (Admin. Officer), Ms Barbara (Spl Asstt), Mr Sharma (a Himachali Security Officer)

Welcoming me with tea etc, AO Mr Vinai allotted Room No. 312 of STC Kochi for stay. It was 3.30 pm by now. So to collect my baggage, I hurriedly left Fort Cochin Island by bus to Ernakulam. Reached SBI Guest house in Ernakulam and after tea etc there, left this place to catch bus going to Fort Cochin Island.

After I reached STC Kochi by 7.30 pm, it started raining heavily in this Island for about 15 minutes giving me wonderful experience of seeing the sea beach from big wide glass window panes of my third floor bed room.

The STC room boy served hot dinner in my room itself. After eating and a few phone calls, I went to bed by 10 pm and had a very cosy sleep.

25.09.2007(Tuesday) Stay in SBI Staff Training Centre, Fort Cochin Island

Got up at about 5.45 am when it was still dark outside and the sea was roaring. As per my request, dot at 6 am, the room boy Ashokan punctually brought a thermos full of hot tea with no sugar no milk and a set of exotic cup and saucer elegantly placed in a tray with a sugar bowl ( even though not needed by me ) and a spoon tucked there in. Heartily appreciating such hospitality, I sipped tea waiting for the day to break.

State Bank Of India Staff Training Centre Kochi is housed in a magnificent hotel like looking premises with sea shore and sea beach overlooking before this building. After 10 am at STC, I participated as an observer in a programme on the Bank’s new VISIONing Exercise to be rolled out wef 1st Oct (Monday) involving all of us followed by a feed back survey covering all employees in 1st week of Nov 2007. I joined with the participants (including young smart one Mr Lawrence from SBI Kavaratti branch). I had lunch along with other faculty members, Mr Raghavan, Ms Rosy, Mr Balagopalan, and Mr Murali. Before post lunch session, Mr Lawrence contacted me and briefed me about Kavaratti and all other SBI staff members. It was a lucky co incidence to meet Lawrence. Thanks to Ms Rosy here I learnt “Third Party fund transfer OnlineSBI net banking” In the vicinity of STC Kochi, there are some quite big sprawling houses more than 200 yrs old, now converted into hotels, schools, home stay, guest houses. One of this is STC. Recently retired ex AGM (STC) Mr Alex had an all praise renovations structurally and aesthetically, in this STC building. Went for evening walk along sea beach up to the Jetty for Ferries to- fro Vypeen Island. While returning, one M.Sc. (Phy) student here accompanied me up to STC and apprised me lot more about this historical Fort Cochin Island. After tea, I saw from my room that it had started drizzling and continued till I had dinner and went to bed by 10 pm.

26.09.2007(Wednesday)

Got up early in the morning at 5.45 and after tea, walked on the other side road leading to INS Dronacharya.

Sweeping coastal wind, waiving green exotic looking plants, flowers in and outside expanse of old spacious double storey Dutch bunglows now renovated with latest architectural / coloured designs, owned / occupied by High ranking officials, Big businessmen, industrialists, owners of tea / coffee / cardamom plantations. Dutch, Jews, Portuguese houses are still prevalent here and some are still occupied by them. Vascodegama Squire, Fort Cochin, Dutch Cemetry are more than 500 yrs old. Coast guard / Battery / Naval property since 1942 are located on the sea side of INS Dronacharya road and on its other side are HML Bunglows lined up along the road side. There are numbers of well maintained smaller roads cris crossing each other. Big & Old Churches, museums, libraries are situated on K J Herschel road and on Napier Road. Govt.Offices of Sub Collector, Circle Police Inspector, Special markets for foreigners/ Tourists,Bank branchs with ATMs, Colleges, Heritage hotels, Home stay houses, Paying Guest houses, Bus stand, Petrol pumps are all located here in this Fort Cochin Island. In and around CSI Church near STC building, I saw a Malayalam film shooting going on. I was told that the name of the film was “ Calcutta News “. Mattencheri is another area in Fort Cochin Island, where some Jews families still live; in addition to good number of Jews families having their houses and shops in the Ernakulam Marine Drive road.

After breakfast, walked on the beach road and reached Custom Jetty on Fort Cochin Island and from there by boat to Willingdon Island. Contacted Mr A Balakrishnan, collected the ship ticket reservation slip approved by him and then from the LakshaDweep Reservation counter, purchased the ship ticket.

Only for Rs 640 Ticket No. 246820 of Ship No. MADJ 0227 “ Minicoy ” sailing on 27^th Sept 2007 at 10 am from Kochi to Kavaratti

Returned back to Fort Cochin Island by boat and then to STC Kochi where I had lunch along with other faculty members. Sr faculty here Mr Balagopalan gladly trained me the Online train ticket reservations. He also told about his relative Mr M K Menon who was Chief Engineer on the ship “Minicoy” sailing to Laksha Dweep on 27^th Sept.

In the evening, walked along beach. I saw many ice cream parlours staged on the decorated auto rikshaws / vans and some Kapilendi (ground nuts) vendors. Made phone calls to Mr Prathesh ( BM SBI Kavaratti ) and Mr Tiwari ( CM SBI NRI Branch Kochi) and apprised of my voyage to Kavaratti on 27^th Sept. Met one Mr Singh (Bihari) serving as Manager of tea easte in Idukki (Kerala) and staying with its owners Thakur House Fort Cochin. I also met one Mr Kamlesh (Banarasi) Panwala at bus stand Fort Cochin Island.

Paid Rs 120 today at STC Kochi for 3 days stay. Earlier I had paid on 24^th Sept Rs100 for 4 days stay at SBI Guest house, Ernakulam. After dinner and writing diary pages, I went to bed by 10 pm and slept comfortably.

27.09.2007(Thursday) Travel by ship “Minicoy”: Cochin to Lakshadweep Islands

Got up at 5.30 am and had tea at 5.45 am. Today I carefully observed that there was some specialty in the tap water here. It was not sticky with soap and cleans fast & quite well. Hot water supply in the bath room is through solar system water heating system. National News papers reach here by about 7 am.

Amongst birds, crows are in abundance and amongst land animals; there are dogs, goats, cats. Frogs are also seen. Surprisingly, did not see any pig, hen, cow, buffalo etc.

The water floating green hyacinths (some flowering ones also) are prevalent in the back waters, rivers flowing in to the sea.

After breakfast, the room boy gave a packed lunch of Puries and Vegetables with pickles.

I left Fort Cochin Island by boat to Willington Island and saw that the ship “Minicoy” scheduled to sail for Kavaratti was anchored and waiting for all passengers to board. Full AC fast sailing ship“Minicoy” Interiors of Minicoy & Push back seats

In this full AC fast sailing ship “Minicoy”with 150 sleeping cum sitting chair cars, I was happily surprised to find as my co- passengers, next to my berth No.101, two young boyish looking men, Jaya Ranjan (MA-Hindi & Sanskrit, B.Ed.) from Chennai (Tamil Nadu), Bedabyas Bhoi ( MA-Social Science,B.Ed.) from Bolangir(Orissa). They had met me yesterday in the Port Office seeking help for ship tickets and had introduced as newly appointed teachers ( TGT ) in Kendriya Vidyalaya, Kavaratti.

10 am: Met Mr Menon, Chief Engr and Mr Verghese, Captain of this ship. I was told that the ship will reach Kavaratti, next morning by 8.30 am but the ship continued to wait for boarding to complete and then for the Govt Surveyor from MMG Deptt ( DG Shipping) to come and after due checking of all passengers and their luggage kept down stairs in the locker cabinets, will give signal to start the ship. Climbed up to the top of the ship, saw its pantry, cafeteria, toilets, sideways etc. Coffee/tea vending machines were offering self service. Only non veg lunch / dinner are available in the cafeteria. Breakfast is available veg and non veg both. 01.00 pm: It was announced that the passengers should occupy their respective berths, as the Surveyor was about to come for his verification, but more passengers continued to board the ship. It was learnt that the vacant berths were being filled up with Wait Listed passengers. Met other co passengers Mr & Mrs Mohd Koya (on berth No.100 and 99). Mr Koya, a resident of Amini Island, was an employee in Collectorate in Kavaratti. One of the KV TGT teachers Mr Jaya Ranjan, who had resigned from Banglore based Jain International School as Hindi teacher, shared with me that being a Tamilian Jain and pure vegetarian, it was not at all possible for him to eat non veg food on board. As such I offered to him my packed vegetarian lunch to eat till it is finished. The other KV teacher Mr Bedabyas had taken the Chicken Biryani lunch on board. 01.15 pm: Ship started sailing now. (3 hours late at Cochin itself). Met one more KV TGT appointee Yogesh Meena from Jaipur(Rajasthan). He was accompanied with his uncle, a serving railway employee.Yogesh was not comfortable with this ship journey. 02.00 pm: Walked on top floor of the ship from axle side, left side, right side and saw that there was a continuous lining of green hyacinths floating in the mouth of the sea in Cochin. Went down stairs and saw the sea from the AC cabins where most of the passengers were sitting /sleeping. A few passengers including all the three young KV teachers, were vomiting due to sea sickness. But under the directions of the Ship’s Welfare Officer, the ship staff was immediately cleaning the soiled floor. Seeing all this, just after some time, I left the cabin and climbed up stairs watching the sea better than from inside the cabins. For some times I sat on the benches lying on the second floor. So far, I did not eat any thing from cafeteria on board except coffee. I ate only biscuits and my home made CFN (roasted chiwada, moongfali and chana). This made me also start feeling nausea but no vomiting and no major adverse effect of sea sickness, so far. Inside the cabin, one Malayalam film was being shown, but I preferred to stand or sit out side and watch the sea. This place being in almost centre of the ship body, gave me mild nausiatic feelings due to lesser impact of swinging on the fast sailing ship now in rough sea. Water was splashing high up to the second floor board also. So I took off my shoes and walked bare foot up and down enjoying the sea water splashes. Among passengers were three children also ( one was only a few days old ) In sea, there was no cell phone connectivity. Only wireless phones were available with the Captain / crew members. All announcements were made in Malayalam only. Captain of this ship along with 1st Officer, 2nd Officer were put on duty for 4 hours each at a stretch. Similar arrangements were for Chief Engr, 1st Engr, 2nd Engr. Other crewmen were also seen handling the ship while some times the ship was left sailing on auto mode in pre defined straight sea channel / route. 06.00 pm : Now it is sunset and Iftar time, being Ramadan / Ramjan fasting month. One co passenger Mr P Atta Koya, well conversant with Hindi, English, and Malayalam gave to me his autograph. He was from Chetlak Island. His address is Shanaz Manzil, Chetlak Island. He advised to visit these Islands in October to May ( best in Dec and January ) when the sea remains calm and boats ply between Laksha Dweep Islands easily and frequently. Presently the sea was rough so these boats were not plying. One Mr SriKumar, SDO in BSNL posted in Kadmat Island had a hand bag showing legend “Art of Living”. On discussion with him, it transpired that his sister Valsala and his brother in law, KPT Pillai both have retired from SBI Palghat and are living there with their son Hari ( He gave their Palghat / Palakkad residence phone number also) 11.45 pm: Almost all, on board passengers were fast sleeping, some on the floors with or without sleeping bags. It is mid night and complete darkness was spread in the sea except on the sides of the ship where the water splashing was quite high due to ship sailing at a higher speed in the night.

28.09.2007(Friday)

04.00 am: Sehri started ie breakfast time during Ramajan fasting period. Now outside was seen full moon light in the sky and the ship was sailing at a high speed. 04.30 am: First Island “Andrott” seen at a distance passed by our ship. 06.00 am: It was day light now and the sea was very rough with larger sea currents hard hitting our ship resulting into bumps / water splashing even up to top floor. I was told that the speed of the ship was 15 Nautical Miles ( ie 25 Kms ) per hour. 08.00 am: Now the vegetarian breakfast ( four slices of bread, one each sachets of butter, fruit Jam and one ripe banana ) is available in cafeteria for Rs 20 each. One cup of Coffee or tea is for Rs 5 only. 08.30 am: The ship had anchored in deep sea a little away from Kadmat Island clearly visible in front of our eyes. The smaller boats from Island’s shore / jetty having shallow sea waters, ferried near ship and the passengers to get down on this Island have boarded these boats. Our ship’s Chief Engr Mr Menon took me and two KV teachers (from Chennai and Orissa) to ship’s Engine room and showed the high sounding generators, propellers etc. It was difficult to hear each others conversations. After this, he showed his personal room cum office fully AC, beds, TV, Dining table, Music system and all other equipments. 09.30 am : Next island Aminidivi was within our sight full of coconut groves and white sand beaches. Now went up to the captain’s cabin, office, rest room equipped with separate kitchen, freezer, dining table, stores etc. 10.00 am : Rough sea got rougher hitting hard and higher splashing water. 11.30 am : Ship passed by Bangaram Island, Internationally acclaimed as one of the best holiday resorts with dense coconut groves, crystal clear lagoons full of coloured fishes etc 01.00 pm : Ship anchored at Agatti Island. Passengers deporting here had to wait because Island boats would come to the ship only after Friday Namaz time is over by 01.30 pm. 05.00 pm : Finally the ship arrived at Kavaratti Island and we deported from ship through boats to reach the jetty. I was elated to put my feet on this Jetty road to reach Port Asstt’s office and with his kind permission telephoned the Branch Manager State Bank Of India Kavaratti branch there to give message of my arrival. As suggested by him, I hired an autorikasha (Rs20) and reached through well cemented Mahatma Gandhi Road to SBI building named White House with House No C8/68 and PIN No. 682 555. Telephoned to my younger son Dr Anupam Ojha, Dehradun informing my reaching here.

SBI Kavaratti Branch (code No.05080,Phone No.04896-263791,Fax No.04896-263792, IP No.952571,email address sbi.05080@sbi.co.in), is housed in a rented double storey new building at monthly rental Rs16000.

On its ground floor, this is fully air conditioned CBS branch with onsite ATM and on its first floor, for the residential use of Branch Manager and other officers, there are three fully furnished rooms (drawing-dining hall, kitchen, toilets) equipped with Sofa set, Centre table, CTV with trolley cabinet, freezer and a local cook named Gaffoor.

Names of SBI Branch personnel, I met there:

1. Mr Prathesh M.B.of Ernakulam, young PO Branch Manager, Mobile No.09447778872
2. Mr N.Ravindra Kumar of Changancherry (Kottayam), Asstt Manager-Accountant Mobile No. 09446572040
3. Mr M.Krishna Kumar of Thrissur(originally Palghat),Asstt Manager-Cash Officer Mobile No.09447428409
4. Mr Ashokan of Trichur(originally a Gujrati), Asstt on deputation for 3 months
5. Mr Lawrence of Trichur, Asstt on training and for deputation replacing Ashokan
6. Mr Gaffoor of Kavaratti, Casual Messenger cum cook
7. Mr Hassim of Kavaratti, Casual Messenger cum canteen boy

Being youngest of all above and also being a local resident, Hassim was very helpful and after tea etc in the bank, came along with me up to the Hotel Al Be(Ph 04896-262579, 263535) where my staying arrangements were made by the Branch manager. I occupied Room No.202 with attached toilets at rentals Rs200.

From the hotel room windows, saw high capacity diesel generator sets running at full speed blaring continuous noisy sounds. Later I learnt that the Kavaratti Island’s 24 hour power supply is managed by the Govt Electricity Deptt only through these DG Sets.

In the evening by about 6.30 pm, I came out of my hotel room and saw Syndicate Bank’s ATM between the Junction point of the Main Jetty and the Port Asstt’s office cum Computersied ticketing counters. Saw on the beach over there near Govt Library, a board displaying Saddam’s photo cum portrait and the beach was named Saddam Beach. Later I learnt that the all Muslim local residents were very proud of deposed Iraqi President Saddam Hussain and were very much hurt by his Execution in United States of America.

When I returned to my hotel room, I learnt that being Ramjan fasting month, food items are not served in any hotel except during their Iftar time dinner and Sehri time break fast.

As such, I was also offered lemon juice, Payasam ( Kheer ), and veg Pakoras with tea. With all these stuff my tummy was full and needed no dinner.

But the hotel cook Ismail offered to serve specially for my dinner by 9.30 pm, the vegetarian stuff ie the deep fried Poories with fried Aaloo Pyaj, Aaloo Baigan because next morning whole day no food will be available in the hotels here. He also apprised me that he only cooks for SBI Staff break fast and dinner during Ramjan fasting month.

In the mean time by about 8.30 pm, the SBI Branch Manager along with his two officers called on me in the hotel, had a chat for about half an hour and then returned back to SBI premises. During their interactions, BM apprised me that the SBI Guest house here is in a separate nearby building at the monthly rentals of Rs 13000 but in the absence of any caretaker, it’s up keep is not good and the brackish water has to be drawn from the campus dug well. Drinking water has to be arranged from else where. For all these reasons, this guest house is being used only by the clerical staff coming on deputation from main land only for 3 months each.

After dinner, I went for a mercury lighted night walk on main jetty. Slept at about 10 pm.

29.09.2007(Saturday)

Early morning at 04.30 am, my hotel room call ball rang and the tea flask was provided by room boy. Took tea and after fresh up, walked along lagoon road going up to fishing jetty where Mr Arun Kumar Jadhav of Kolhapur (MH) was also there to watch the fishes in the crystal clear lagoon blue waters. He told that he is an AE in PWD. He explained what is coral reef, lagoon, deep sea, sea surfing lining at the reefs, fishing boats, buoys with solar panel with batteries inside and anchored to the hard rock. Green and Red buoys show the pathway in lagoon water channel through which the boats can sail otherwise may be hit by coral reefs.

On way, I saw Deptt of Environment and Forests, LDCL (Lakshadweep Development Corporation Ltd, Sabaj textiles, Moothedan fashion jewellary, C K stores, Dweep Tyrewalla, ITI, Information and Publicity office, Ferro cement rain water harvesting, KVIC, Saw Mills, Soubhagiya traders, Suhana super computer and electronics shop, Bharat Petroleum (BP) lubes, Golu video radio dvd mp3, LD (Laksha Dweep) Jilla Panchayat, Marine Engg and automobile services.

Also saw Deptt of Legal Meteorology & Consumer affairs, Office of AE, LD Harbour works jetty, Office of port workshop near fishing jetty, Standing for repairs a few off shore mechanized boats and its propellers, shafts etc

Here, mainly bi-cycles are used but many motorcycles , a few scooters, Activa, a few Maruti cars, 2-3 Swaraj Mazda buses, Auto rikshaws for passengers as well as for goods.

There are number of hens and dwarf goats but fewer cows, ducks, cats

But NO DOGS, NO SNAKES, NO CROWS except 6 or 7 specially brought from Main land on to this Islands.

Brackish water in the dug well is in every house for domestic use but for drinking purpose only the regulated tap water produced and supplied by NIOT converting saline sea water into sweet water.

Coconut groves are in abundance. In some houses were seen few papaya, banana, cashew nut plants. It is all over greenery, cemented roads with shady trees planted on its both sides every where. In some houses, the wall fencings were of some green leafy plants having multy colour flowerings. A few houses were seen having Croton and Kanail flower plants.

At about 8.30 am, walked to SBI branch / premises on MG Road and with Branch Manager and other officers, I had break fast of Idiappam with Chana Masala prepared by cook Ismail. Thereafter, I sat in the branch premises for some time checking my e- mails reading bank’s e- circulars, browsing sbi times website etc while the staff were busy with Bank’s half year closing works. Telephoned to Anurag in Banglore about my stay there.

Here one unique name “I A S” was seen which meant Island Automobile Service. While coming back from the SBI branch, enroute an other road, I saw Masjids, Madarsas, also a School for girls and above all, Indira Gandhi Hospital catering to a number of patients.

After lunch ( Rice Sambhar ) at about 2pm, along with bank officials, came back to hotel room and took rest. In the evening at about 6 pm, over a cup of tea, I joined some other hotel inmates one Mr Anil Kumar ( of Nagpur ), Principal Kendriya Vidyalay and two TGT teachers, Mr Venktesh ( of Chennai ) and Mr Singh ( of Kanpur ). By 8.30 pm,Took dinner(Chapati with vegetable curry made of dried pea,sabudana kheer)

Yesterday evening, a Bombay based contractor Mr Selvan ( of Chennai ) now putting up in the same hotel with us, joined over a cup of coffee and shared that IOC (Indian Oil Corporation ) is trying to set up Octane supply base for Air Crafts, Petrol & Diesel for vehicles, as also for the electricity generators, kerosene oil for local residents use. But due to some pressures and pulls, this work is kept pending half way and that he was there to finally wind up the work half done. Presently, the diesel is being shipped from the port of Manglore and therefore become too expensive. The highest Govt Authority here is Administrator Mr Selvaraj, IAS ( from Goa ) and his Secretariat. He has immense financial and administrative powers for development of Lakshadweep Islands but due to conservativeness of local inhabitants, he faces lots of resistance in implementation of Govt policies. I have seen him passing by the road in his white Ambassador car with red flashing lights.

30.09.2007(Sunday)

Today tea flask at 4.45 am. Got up, took tea and after fresh up again walked along Lagoon road. Ducks also seen. Cats seen but no dogs. Saw crotons of different coloures

There is shop named Anugrah traders.

At about 7 am, reached Marine Aquarium but found it closed on Sunday. Saw Mallikas Furniture, inaugurated by P M Sayeed, then MP (Lakshadweep) and Dy Speaker Lok Sabha. Walked further reaching at the fag end of Kavaratti Island and saw the spacious official residence of the Administrator, the Lakshadweep House on the sea shore.

Vegetables like Baigan, Bhindi, Tori, Lauki etc were seen growing in its kitchen garden. There is a private jetty on the beach for exclusive use of the Administrator. Walked along cemented road neighbouring Administrator’s house, reaching NIOT plant near deep sea.

On way back from NIOT, saw a residential dwelling with a growing Ber berry fruit plant. On seeing my eagerness, the young couple came out from neighbouring residential thatch dwelling taken on rent by it’s tenants Abdul Rehman ( of Kadmat Island, now serving in Port Control Tower in Kavaratti Island ) and his wife Nizza, showed their efforts to raise vegetables like tomatoes, some fruit / flower plants. They explained and showed the difference between tender and ripe coconut fruits. They also plucked one tender coconut and offered to me to drink its sweet water.

It was by now 10 am when one Mr Sayyed Mohd (of Kavaratti), Welfare Officer in Port Deptt Kavaratti Island, gave lift in his motor bike up to SBI Branch on MG Road. He said that he had earlier worked in ships like Tipu Sultan, Bharat Seema

11 am to 01 pm :After break fast ( Dosa, Chatni, Sambhar ) with SBI officials,Prathesh (BM), Ravi(Acctt) and their friend Biju Prabhakar (Secretariat employee) took me for sea bath in blue lagoon at Paradise beach having tourists huts, thatched party hall made of coconut leaves and maintained by Lakshadweep Tourism Deptt. We did lot of swimming, surfing, basking up to 1 pm. Prathesh found here a coral piece and gifted to me. He told that SBI Kerala Circle Chief General Manager Ms Radha Unni had hosted a party here for the local administration and other guests.

Came back to hotel room, took fresh water bath and then walked up to SBI branch to take lunch ( Rice, vegetable, dal ) Then we discussed Project Parivartan in SBI followed by tea in the afternoon. I was told that the news papers are supplied here by bank fortnightly.

At about 5 pm, decided to see the SBI guest house also near Indira Gandhi Hospital with a view to have close interactions with Ashokan ( bank Asstt on deputation ) there to enthuse him vis-à-vis Bank Project Parivartan. To share with him I bought two tender coconuts slit open by the vendor making these ready to drink but when I reached Ashokan’s room on the first floor there, he had just gone away on his bi cycle. This house has no potable water and the occupants have to fetch water from the public taps near road side. There is no care taker or servant in SBI guest house.

So I decided to knock the other resident who happened to be Mr M A Karim, Resident Coordinator of NIOT occupying the ground floor of this guest house building. Mr Karim was also Consultant NIOT Campus, Velachery, Tambaram Road, Pallikaranai, Chennai 600302. He was now heading Low Temperature Thermal Desalination Plant, Kavaratti.

..

While interacting with him over a cup of tea with snacks, he shared that this NIOT plant was commissioned within shortest period of 87 days only. He also updated me that after handing over this plant ( Unique in whole world ) , the process is on to commission similar plants in Andaman Islands and Maurisus also. Earlier, the Islanders were using only brackish water collected in indigenously constructed wells / rain waters

At about 8.30 pm: Came back to hotel room, took dinner ( Chapatti, Subji ) and then after a brief walk on Saddam beach / main Jetty. Saw a snake like fish in crystal clear lagoon water under well lit mercury lamps.

At about 10 pm : Went to bed after writing my diary as usual.

01.10.2007(Monday)

At about 6 am : I got up and found the waiting tea thermos kept out side the room. Took tea, got fresh up and again wrote the diary till 9 am. After bath, I was ready to go to SBI To day morning at 9.30 am, while walking up to SBI, Mr Venkatesh of Central school also accompanied me. He apprised that local bus services are also provided by LD Govt Deptt here. While walking by road side, we observed that some fruit trees like Cheekoo,Custard Apple are also being grown inside house campus.

Whole day I kept my self busy in SBI branch in between break fast, lunch, and evening tea with snacks.

Today, long queue of deposit customers was seen before SWO counter. The borrowers were being attended by Branch Manager himself while I helped in scrutinizing the loan documents and providing guidance wherever required. I noticed that the BM avoided taking tea in the presence of fasting Muslim customers visiting the branch.I was surprised to see that some computer hardware problems / replacements were promptly attended there by the team of HCL Engineers as Supports for PCs in most of the offices here. I was introduced with LD Police Inspector Mr K C Abdul Sukur who was known to Mr Sajid Khan Official in Bharat Seema ship. On his bike Sukur drove me up to his office and showed his establishment. He only apprised me that in the SBI campus and also else where in this Island, many shady trees with smaller size fruits looking like Jack fruit here are called Kada Chakka ( butter fruit ) and have been declared, the Island’s State fruit.

At about 3.30 pm : I walked on nearby roads leading to sea shore. Saw foundation stone laid by B V Selvaraj, IAS on 15^th Aug 2007 for Directorate of Medical & Health Services Also saw offices, residences, premises like BSNL, Working women hostel, Constituency office of MP Dr Koya.At Post Office Jn, the shops of BackerOpticals, RuhiyaDrug House Feroz Systems & Digital, BJP office, Dr K P Muthu Koya (MBBS).and on sea shore side road were offices of RTO, Door Darshan, Employment Exchange, Port Officer, Laksha Dweep Development Corporation Ltd (LDCL) headed by its MD (an IAS), Botanical garden, Indoor sports hall, Panchayat Sadan (Assembly), Secretariate headed by its Administrator ( an IAS), Collectorate headed by Collector (an IAS)., State guest house,Telephone Exchange, Sydicate Bank, Super Bazar, Govt Press, Dak Bunglow, Rest House, Maruti Authorised Service Centre,

Met Mr Biju Prabhakar, working in Collectorate office, informed that Laksha Dweep has 3 IAS, 2 IPS and 1 IFS officer serving these Islands.

Lakshadweep Electricity Deptt (LED) Power house through its Diesel Generators, supplies electricity and it was not free of cost.

In the evening by about 5 pm : I saw apple fruits in a vegetable stall and checked up rates. It was @Rs48 here as against Rs50 to 60 per kg in Fort Cochin Island. I felt that the shop keepers are honest and not greedy. Returned back to hotel room.

Later in the hotel, the cook K G Ismail ( of Minicoy ) and the room boy ( of Kavaratti ) arranged lemon tea for me, Saboodana kheer, coconut and khajoor at Iftar time.

Ismail apprised me that the Bank’s building on M G Road is owned by Mr C M Ahmad, retired EE. He clarified that the ripe coconut fruits keep on falling down and are allowed by the plant owners to dry on the ground. No other person would take away such drying coconuts except the real owners. People here are very simple and honest. The dried copra is taken out from such fruits in the summer months of May & June. Not needing dinner, went to bed by 10 pm

02.10.2007(Tuesday) Gandhi Jayanti

At about 5.30 am: Got up when it was still dark outside. Opened the room door but did not find tea flask to day. At 6.10 am, went upstairs in to the dining hall. The cooks were fast asleep. So walked out side up to the main jetty and enjoyed the cool breeze.

By 6.30 am: saw flocks of pigeons and few crows also. Earlier I was told that there are no dogs, no snakes and no crows here but today I have seen at least two crows on the main jetty where one cargo barge (named Lakshadweep) had arrived. Then how come crows here!!. Later I was told that not only 2 crows seen by me, there are total 12 crows found in Kavaratti Island brought from Main land by local Ahmadia Muslim residents who believe crows as a sign of good omen.

Met Mr Ajay Kumar (of Bhubaneshwar ) working in Harbour Deptt since last 25 years. He apprised me that the ships require at least 2.2 meter depth of sea water, but the lagoons though are 3.5 meters deep but intermittent are the coral reefs. So passenger ships do not take risk of getting stucked, these ships prefer to get anchored in deep sea near island. Only cargo ships for easier loading / unloading choose to sail up to main jetty in lagoons, slowly & carefully.

Also met A Ahmad Haji, Chairperson of Village ( Dweep ) Panchayat Sadan like State Assembly. Administrator is like Governor. Secretariat, Panchayat Sadan and Collectorate all are situated at one place. He apprised that each Island is a village and all Islands put together are one Distt.

Mr Haji and Mr Ajay both confirmed that now there are few crows but no scorpions like no dogs and no snakes here.

Came back to hotel and met Vajjiram ( of Chennai ), Maths teacher in Kendriya Vidyalay Went in to dining hall where the cooks arranged thermos full of tea for both of us. The cooks said that today being Gandhi Jayanti, was a holiday so they got up a little late.

I guess, out of all local men folks, many get busy with fishing on their boats in the sea. Women folks remain in their homes. All men folks pray Namaj perhaps five times a day in different Masjids present at many places in Kavaratti. They are very religious, praying God and may be therefore simple and honest. They are living in complete harmony with others coming from main land as employees here. They are considerate, helpful and very

happily share the things they have.

At 9.30 am : Just walked up to Port Asstt Office and saw there was long queue for ship ticket reservation. Rajan of KV and Pramod (of Kerala )lecturer in local B Ed college, were standing in queue. The booking counter was to open at 10 am.

Gaffoor, SBI canteen boy came running to me and said that to day he will stand in queue, but chances are bleak. Let us see whether return ship ticket for me is arranged or not.

By 10 am: Left for SBI and on way I saw BAR BER shop (Barber), Saudi Bazar(Shop) opposite Govt Girls High School, China Bazar(Shop) near SBI. Also saw a few plants of drumstick and Mehndi. At SBI today I had break fast of Upma. Saw an invitation card from Honble Administrator Mr B V Selvraj and his wife Mrs Julienne Selvraj for BM to participate in Iftar Party at 21.45 hrs at Paradise hut on Paradise beach / lagoon. Saw live TV show of Cricket match between India and Australia being played in Cochin today. Also saw the live TV show of Ernakulam sea beaches, islands, boats, ships, tourists enjoying the place. During lunch time I had Rice, Dal and Sabji

Using BM’s BSNL mobile phone, called to my son Dr Anupam in Dehradun and sent SMS to Mr P Chaudhury, SBI CGM on his mobile number 09884488690 “ SKOjha touring Kavaratti. Request your permission for teletalk” and sent one e mail also to him.

Pat came mobile phone from Mr P Chaudhury and we talked about my tour to Kerala.

By 5.30 pm : After tea and snacks, while returning from SBI, saw on lagoon road, the Police Welfare Store, Police Stn, AE PWD Office, Dak Bunglow, SDO, BDO and DRDO Offices. I was told that there is a Kottayaram ( means palace ) Retail shop, where almost every thing is available like One Stop Shop, now a days

6.30 pm: Now Iftar time, so went up to dining hall where I was served with Siwaiyan and Pakode. As such, dinner was not needed, therefore, took rest and went to bed by 10 pm.

03.10.2007(Wednesday)

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At about 5.30 am: to day also got up early. Opened the room door but did not find tea flask, so went upstairs in to the dining hall. The cooks were fast asleep. So walked out side up to 6.30 am and then Mr Natrajan joined me searching for tea. He has come to this Island yesterday evening as such was not aware of strict fasting month of Ramjan here. Natrajan was from Nagercoil / Kanyakumai and had joined the KV in Doda Distt (J&K). After remaining there for about 5 years, then he got his choice posting in Chennai at KV AF Stn Tambaram and served there for about 5 years. Being quite senior now, he was deputed to take charge as Officiating Principal in KV Kavaratti. We took tea together.

At 6.45 am: Went up to main jetty to see as to why there was a crowd gathering there. I was told that some ship is anchored and passengers along with their well wishers are there for boarding / welcoming incoming passengers.

Talked with Mr Atta Koya ( Port Asstt Offfice ) about my return ticket back to Cochin. He suggested for contacting the Port Welfare Officer Mr Cheriya Koya in Port Office.

At about 7 am : To day I walked on north side of Lagoon road. Noticed that the goats here are exceptionally of smaller size. Also noticed one big Neem tree. Some thin plants of Bamboos, small tree of Guava and Kundroo like vegetable plants. Neem is called Vepu in Malayalam. With the help of some local residents I reached the residence of Mr Arun Kumar Jadhav, AE PWD. I found him down with, Chickenguniya fever ( may be ). After wishing him Get Well Soon, saw a local news paper, “Lakshdweep Times” published by local Administration in English with two pages in Malayalam also.

While walking on the road, I noticed a poster of 3 D pictures of sea life with captions reading like “ Project Giant Clam, Save Reef, Indian Spider, Conches, Sea turtle look better alive than dead ”.

I again walked up to Fisheries Jetty and saw 2 crows there, a barge (locally called Manju) loaded with stone gravels. The barge had come from Calicut and due to some heavy loads on it, this barge was at least 8 meters submerged in water.On this jetty beach shore, there was office of AE Harbour works and Port workshop.

Returned to hotel, met another new comer Jyotish (of Kerala) who said he has gold business in Kerala and every fortnightly, he visits these Islands for sale / purchase of gold ornaments. He has a shop also named Choice Jewelers run by his partner here. I enquired whether there is corruption here or not. He said corruption is high at higher levels but not affecting common people. Being regular visitor, Jyotish knows Mr Ali Koya, the owner of this hotel Al Be ( short name of his wife ) and its Manager Mr Siraj who looks after the shop named “Al Be & sons.”

At about 8.30 am:. Went to SBI and had break fast of Idli. I met Mr Syed Sheik Koya, Ex Secretary to the Administrator, now the owner of SBI Guest house. While sharing with BM Mr Prathesh, I suggested that since the confirmed return ticket for ship cabin for me is not available (I was wait listed ), we may try to get at least the confirmed deck ticket, so that I can sail back to Cochin on 6^th October.

At about 12 noon : I came back to the main jetty and stood in queue at the booking counter which closes at 1 pm but reopens at 2 pm. Mr Jyotish ( gold businessman ) also was standing in the same queue. Just 3 minutes before the closing time, I got the deck ticket but wait listed No 16 for Rs 160 ( being SBI / Govt employee ) for ship sailing on 7^th Oct only. Walked back to SBI for lunch. On way I saw and walked in to the Central Library to sit and read and know about Lakshdweep. Library officials helped me a lot.

At about 3 pm: after lunch at SBI, met Mr V C Mathew ( of Alleppy ) Asstt Comandant, India Reserve Battalion ( IR Bn ). He said that Mr David, an IPS, was Commandant IRBn and that Mr G C Dwivedi ( of Varanasi ), another IPS, was Supdt Of Police in Laksha Dweep. Mr Pravesh Ranjan Jha ( of Bihar ) was Dy Collector, Minicoy Island.

Dr Mishra BAMS ( of Varanasi ) was Chief Ayurvedic Doctor in Indira Gandhi Hospital.

Mr Mathew gave me lift in his car up to Kendriya Vidyalay which was just opposite his office of IR Bn. Here saw a temple erected within this IR Bn campus. Walked inside the KV campus which was quite spacious premises / play ground with many fruits / flowers / vegetable plants. The students up to class VIII standard were in the classes / play grounds Met some teachers in staff room. Saw class rooms, library and Internet room etc. With the help of Google seacrh, I learnt that “Clam” is comparatively large size of Oyster which may be producing pearls inside it. I was curious to know as to what is giant Clam.

By about 5 pm :While walking back, I decided to go up to the last point of the road near KV and then the up to the last point of Lagoon Road. I saw a protected place of Naval Detachment Office on the sea shore, Transit house for Panchayat members / functionaries inaugurated on 15^th August 2007. Also saw foundation stone of Herbal Park (defunct ), spread on both sides of the Lagoon road leading to Helibase Kavaratti. Saw Lagoon view Café ( defunct ) of which the stone was laid by K S Mehra, IAS on 05^th Dec 2003.

Here I could see, sea on both sides of the road at its Chicken neck point (least road width)

A dairy farm ( defunct but gate had 3 locks on it ), stone laid for IR Bn Housing complex, Wind Mill ( defunct ) and now used as store for diesel drums of LED gensets.

At the end of this road was a 100 kvp Grid Interactive SPU Power Plant ( Solar Energy ) for road lights and as a stand by arrangement for LED Gensets.

Thereafter I entered a gate on which it was written “ Thank You ( Kritagya in Hindi ) It was the Helibase where I saw Pawan Hans Helicopters.Talked to the un enthusiastic pilot Mr Kumar. This was southern most last point of the Island with sea roaring around it.

It was 6 pm at the Helibase : I started walking back to hotel at about 4 km distance. On way I saw offices of Dy Chief Engr Harbour Works and Indian Coast Guard station. There were Govt residential quarters for employees here on both sides of the road. It was getting darker now so I got a bike lift though for a short distance up to the biggest retail shop Kottaram near SBI.

By about 7 pm : I walked up to the hotel and after fresh up took dinner ( Chapatti, Dal Chawal and Vegetable ) Retired to bed by 9 pm

Earlier in the evening while sitting on the beach near Lagoon café view, I found one mollusc shell in which a red coloured crab was lying as dead one. I brought this with me and kept in the hotel room on table at 7 pm. By 9 pm I saw the red crab crawling out of the shell. So I kept the whole shell outside the hotel premises only to find next morning, that the crab had crawled away in the sand or in stone cracks.

04.10.2007(Thuresday)

4.30 am : The room boy knocked the door and gave flask full of tea to day. Instead of going for walk, I shared tea with Mr Natrajan (Principal KV) and started writing diary uo to 9.15 am. Thereafter got ready and left for SBI by 9.30 am

By 9.45 am : After 15 minutes of walk, I was at SBI. Yesterday I had seen on M G Road,

one more shop Gulf Bazar but selling only local fancy items. Mr P C Syed haji was the owner of one stop shop, Kottaram (palace). Saw Coir board office near SBI. One or two full tractors with trolley also seen on roads for carrying loads here. After break fast of Puttu ( made of steamed rice powder ) with Chana masala curry , flipped through pages of magazine India Today, sat talking with BM

Lo! there came the IFS Officer Mr G Kumar ( of Trichnapalli ) and offered to give lift on his jeep up to the Secretariat and also up to his office in Secretariat premises. Mr Kumar helped me in reaching Mr P M Koya, Information Officer in Secretariat. Mr Koya helped me in getting one copy of the Lakshadweep Calender 2007, the much liked and required by me for carrying back home to show as to how an Island and its Lagoons, reefs, sea, beaches, coconut groves etc look like. He also provided one copy each of coloured News manazine “Lakshdweep Times” (published on each Tuesday and Friday) and two years achievements in Lakshadweep. Even though it was Ramjan fasting for them, Mr Koya also offered to me a glass of water and then a copy of Lakshadweep gazateer 1977 (priced Rs29). I said that I will be going through these publications sitting in Central Library later on. But I glanced through some of the salient features reproduced below: view of Kavaratti in full with chicken neck point of ths Island

Lakshadweep Area : 32 Sq Km Population : 60,650 Principal language : JESERI ( mixture of Malayalam,Tamil, Kannada, English,Arabic,Mahl ) Mahl is the language in Minicoy. Central Govt plan outlay more than doubled for Lakshadweep : Rs 201 crores (2006-07) from Rs 82 crores(2005-06) In addition to Kavaratti Desalination plant(2004-05), eight more such plants for other Islands in Lakshadweep Acquisition of High Capacity (150 to 250 passengers ), High speed ferry vessels, Inter - Island high speed ferry vessels ( 15 to 20 passengers )

Aerial view of Kavaratti Island

At about 12.45 pm: Mr Kumar instructed his diver to drop me up to SBI but I got down at I G Hospital ( before SBI ) and saw the entire hospital and finally met Dr Mishra, Chief Ayurvedic Medical Officer. Dr Mishra ( of Varanasi ) MD, joined Govt job after selection through UPSC and got posting in Kavaratti since 1982. He said that he and Mr Dwivedi, IPS remain in touch with each other.

Dr Mishra was a bit critical of Lakshadweep Administration and gave an unenthusiastic response similar to one shown by Mr Kumar Pilot of Pavan Hans helicopter, yesterday.

After a bit heavy lunch of Rice and Sambhar at SBI to day, Mr Ashokan jokingly shared as to why there are many rats and cats in Kavaratti because there are no snakes and dogs.

With fewer students, saw one Markaz English Medium School run by Sunny educated youths. As also, number of Madarsas with not many students, , whereas at Kendriya Vidyalay, well dressed large number of students were seen in class rooms/ playgrounds.

Came back to hotel room and leaving calendars etc there, walked towards Fisheries museum, on northern side of Lagoon Road. Here saw not one but many Neem trees. Surprisingly one internet café was also seen ( charges Rs 30 per hour ) In fisheries museum ( charges Rs 5 ) saw shark pool ( lying defunct ) inaugurated by Mr Chaman lal, IAS on 26^th Jan 2001. Adjacent to it, a big Aquarium was also there but being under maintenance, could see only some marine fishes and one small shark fish swimming in one water pool along with one stone like animal lying idle. The Aquarium Manager showed me publication priced Rs 50 which I did not like. Overall it was not so good.

Now I walked further on Lagoon Road to locate and see the Light house tower on the sea shore. On way I saw a Govt Junior School. Near NIOT, to day a cargo ship was seen anchored and on both sides of the road, saw pucca small homes but most of them having shining tiled floorings.

Saw many men, youths, children mostly riding bicycles, listening to FM radio through their mobile phones with BSNL connectivity.

At about 4.30 pm: Reached Light house with the help of Mr Anwar Hussain of IR Bn. Yesterday he had seen me alighting from his Asstt Commandant’s car.Mr Anwar was posted earlier in Silvasa so he was well conversant with Hindi also.

Anwar led me inside the Light house premises, otherwise a protected / prohibited place, and introduced with the Head light keeper Mr R Sudhakaran. Then Anwar left for his home with 2 freshly bought fishes for Rs 50 each to be cooked to day for dinner.

Mr R Sudhakaran along with his 4-6 other colleagues talked about Kerala. Sudhakaran hails from Kovallum (Trivendrum) settled now near Attengal. They all told that they love Hindi and showed a Hindi poetry manuscript copy and then computer typed copy forwarded to Nagar Raj Bhasha Karyanyavan Samiti at Harbour Works Kavaratti. He autographed for me in Hindi at my request, helped me in learning Malayalam alphabets and few words like Nanni (thanks). They are maintaining Aaj ka Shabd, regularly.

They apprised that Light houses, Shipping Transport, Harbour Works are Central Govt Establishments. Port Office comes under State Govt. They offered me water followed by hot red tea. They said that the height of the light house was 38 meters and has about 200 steps to climb up to the top where the costly equipments are installed.

At 6 pm : Lighting time for October month,after paying entry fees Rs 5, climbed slowly up to the top and saw the lighting equipments, fully mechanized with uninterrupted live power supply as also supported by battery back ups, solar power, all simultaneously. The gears are motor driven to rotate the light (3x150Wts) mercury lamps enclosed within powerful high beam reflectors to emanate( full beam as well as flickering) lighting which can be seen up to / from a distance of 18 nautical miles (about 30 kms). Due to curvature in sea water, the ships at farther distance can spot the Island even from that distance also.

Beams of different Light houses emanate a particular code number which makes the captain of the ship and their sailing crew to understand the name of the approaching Island. There is a radar point also and the signals are received by the ships. It was explained to me that the ships pass through a ship channel in the sea marked by Hydrographic surveys. These channels are like roads for surface transport and like air route for air transport.

From top balcony of the light house, entire island is visible in one go. I could see the sea alone around island with thick vegetation of coconut groves.

The Light house premises are having Coconut, Guava and also a Neem tree. In the neighborhood of the light house, the new jetty is under fast construction, where direct embarkation / disembarkation from / to larger ships like Tipu Sultan, Bharat Seema will be possible due to deep sea lying quite near the Light house point.

Here I saw another diesel generating power house working as sub station in Kavaratti. Some local residents were seen clearing dead dried coral stones from the beach to make clear space on the sand for the purpose of sun drying of their coconut / copra produce.

Now by 7 pm : It was getting dark, so I walked back to hotel.

On way I met a local young man named Saleem who after doing his LLB from SDM College Mangalore ( Mangalore University ) was now doing his LLM from Delhi University, staying there with Dr P P Koya MP. Earlier, Saleem had done his B Com from Kerala Verma College Trichur ( Affiliated to Calicut University ). He told that Kerala Verma was a king of Kerala and the present college premises was in this king’s palace only. Wishing him well, I walked further and saw on way, that there was a dental clinic of Dr K Kamal Nawas, BDS and office of New India Assurance Co Ltd.

A foundation stone was seen at the junction of link road for Ekkarpally to Chandiram. Tired so much that on reaching the hotel room I went to bed after taking small dinner.

05.10.2007(Friday)

By 5 am : Got up early but found no tea flask to day also. Went up to the dining hall and saw that the room boy Mustaq was ready to come with the flask full of tea for me. Mean time one of the KV teachers also came up. We took tea together in the dining hall itself. In the mean time, Mustaq prepared more tea to top up the half empty flask by now. Back in the room, I wrote my diary up to 6 am.

By about 6 am: Walked out up to the main jetty relishing the cool breeze. Came back to hotel and shared tea once more now together with KV Principal and IOC Contractor.

By about 9 am : Visited Central Library. First met Mr Peer Mohd and then In- Charge Library Mr Shamshuddin.( both B Lib from Calicut University ), arranged for 3 books to read and know more on Lakshadweep.

By about 10 am : Had break fast at SBI. Way back got lift on a high costing (Rs61000) new Pulsar M Bike with electronic speedometer. The proud owner a JE here, he was too happy to help me and show his prized possession in this Island.

By 11 am : I was back again at Central Library where Mr M Poo Koya helped me to understand better / quickly in library. He showed me a pictograph of an old time sailing vessel “Odam“ to main land at Mangalore / Cochin. Then it took upto one month to reach main land for copra sale. He apprised that Ujra mosque and Moinuddin mosque are most famous in the Island of Kavaratti. Learnt from the library books that there are no termites also here. Being Friday the In charge and staff sent for Jumma prayer ( 12.30 to 2 pm ), allowing me to read in their office, instead of in the library ( closed during Jumma time )

Between 2 to 2.30 pm : Hurried for lunch at SBI. Then I received from my son Dr Anupam a Phone call followed by a Fax containing 6 pages regarding Bank’s offer of contractual appointment for retired MMGS III officers, as CMAs(Channel Management Advisors) @ Rs 10000 + Rs 2000 + Rs 500 for a period of 2 years extendable to next 2 years. This sudden and surprising offer was discussed amongst us.

After lunch coming back to hotel, I again saw tomatoes in a shop and decided to buy it in bulk along with some ginger and oranges etc for use in SBI kitchen for weeks together. But I was politely told that all items have already been booked in advance for purchase.

By about 5 pm : Purchased baked and pounded rice ie in Malayalam called Avil(Chiwda) Ilaichi, Biscuit, Til laddoos from nearby store.After keeping these in hotel room, decided to walk up to centuries old very revered, historically valued Ujra mosque which is meant for Rathib, Namaz, Ziarath. With the help of a bike lift quickly, on reaching there, I saw this mosque was built on a high rise elevation of land on the island. In its proximity, there is an old banyan tree and a natural source of small water pool believed to have healing effect / treated as a boon to one & all. Talked with another visitor (serving in Secretariat) who had come there to give his offerings as he was just blessed with a son in Hospital.

Surprisingly in this Island far off from main land, this Ujra mosque is made of all finely carved wooden panels / ceilings.

By about 6 pm : came back from Ujra and strolled up to main jetty where Mohd Hussain of IRLD explained how the buoys automatically start beaming red / green light signals through self controlled diodes which start flickering as soon there is no sun light or it becomes dark in the evenings. These are self switched off after sunrise. He also showed the damaged helicopter kept at the jetty end for being transshipped to main land for necessary repairs.

By about 9 pm: returned to hotel room and after taking dinner, paid cash Rs 1750 to the Manager Mr Siraj, clearing my lodging / boarding bills up to this night ie 5^th October. As told by Siraj, the shops remain open from 9.30 pm to 2 am during Ramjan ( as in Saudi Arabia ).Then I experienced night shopping here, before finally going to bed by 10.30 pm

06.10.2007(Saturday) Travel by ship “Bharathseema”: Kavaratti (LD) to Cochin

5.30 am : As usual got up, opened the room door but found no tea. Heard Mr Venkatesh watching some TV programme and also waiting for tea.

6.00 am : The room boy was now awake and brought tea for us which we shared along with Mr Venkatesh and Mr Natrajan. At my request, the chiwda was roasted by cook.

6.10 am : Walked up to Fisheries Jetty and saw MSV ( Motor Sailing Vessel )” Abbas” UTL 1 Lakshadweep Manju standing in jetty sides. This barge had come yesterday evening with cargo of general provisions for the shop keepers including vegetable / fruits Now came back and walked up to main jetty where another barge was carefully sailing in to the jetty side. It was “Ubaidulla” bringing rice stock cargo for the Islanders. Saw half a dozen port deptt officials, one Mr Habib (of Kavaratti) and another Mr Habib (of Kilten). They explained that the rice was coming from Mangalore. This rice will be unloaded in to a DUM Barge ( like tractor trolley ) which will be towed by boats.

On the cargo ship, in addition to the Captain and Chief Engineer, there is a Chief Officer ( Deck ) who is like Welfare Officer on the passenger ships. The barge can come up to jetty in Lagoon even if water is 3.5 meters deep but passenger ships require at least 9 meters of deep sea water.

8.30 am : Came back to hotel and took bath.

9.15 am : Walked up to SBI for break fast of Chor Pattari ( Thick roti made of rice powder like Makke ki roti ) and Matar ke chhole ki sabji. In Malayalam Chor means Rice After coming back to hotel, as a memoir, I purchased from Al Be Shop a white T Shirt (Rs100) with logo painted on it “Lakshadweep- India”

12 noon to 2 pm : Sat in Central Library to read other two books on LD Island

This library was opened in 1958 at Calicut, shifted here in 1964, has over 6000 books

2.30 to 3 pm : At SBI and took lunch of rice and sambhar. Learnt that Bharat Seema ship will be sailing for Cochin to day by about 9 pm to 10 pm. BM Mr Prathesh confirmed that Emergency quota cabin berth has been arranged for me and that cabin ticket will be available now in the ship only

7.30 pm : Prathesh (BM), Ravi (Acctt) and Krishna (CO) were there near main jetty. They purchased 3 fishes from out of big catch of Tuna ( Chura in Malayalam ) that evening. While Krishna and Ravi left for SBI by 8 pm, Prathesh was with me up to 9.30 pm. We talked about his education, family, joining the Bank and above all his good way of working with easy going life. On hearing from him, we also shared upon Value system

I saw a big crowd of passengers waiting for Bharat Seem ship, here. I and Prathesh met with Mr Cheriya Koya ( AGM-SPORTS ), Dinesh Subramanyam (DSA-ICICI Bank), Hari Kumar (Consultant-IOC). Ismail (hotel cook) also had come to see me off. I was told that he was so good human being that he raised a young boy to make him a Doctor.

9.30 pm : Saw that a big boat was now ready with passengers almost pushing in to it. The signal lights were flickering in the darkness of night through buoys floating in the lagoon. When the boat started moving away from beach, being centrally seated, I could not see the night scene around the Island. When some how I could manage to stand up in my boat, then I could see the beach lights, boats / vessels lights etc.

This big boat sailed leaving behind main jetty, fisheries jetty, NIOT and Light house jetty We could see the light beams coming from light house up to Bharat Seema ship waiting for us in the deep sea. On reaching our boat, the process of embarkation of passengers started followed by loading of cargo on this big ship in a dangerous manner for persons like us. This ship has a capacity of 450 passengers but today it was accommodating more. Travel by ship “Bharathseema”: Kavaratti (LD) to Cochin

10 pm : Due to crowd on the deck and cargo unloading still going on, there was chaos around. I waited for Mr Alla Koya, the Welfare Officer, near his cabin but he was seen busy with managing this crowd. The CTV showing some programmes, was shut down. However the big fans were kept on to give some relief to us. Passengers on deck were sitting / few laying on cushioned benches / sofas. Some had spread bed sheets on the deck ground itself and were lying unmindful of such a big crowd around them.

By 10.15 pm: the Welfare Officer finding my name appearing in the list of released EQ passengers, allotted to me on payment of extra fare Rs 300,one out of four berths in cabin No 210 elegantly furnished with sofa, table, chairs, fans, wash basin, mirror, safe cabinets The berths had clean white bed sheets and pillow. I was thankful to officer Mr Alla Koya. After occupying my berth on the 2^nd floor, I preferred to take a full round of the ship’s top floor, 2^nd floor, 1^st floor and in the midst of number of the Reserved Deck passengers occupying open spaces. Also saw the Captain’s spacious cabin, very good Deck cafeteria, quite clean toilets etc.The loading / unloading of cargo and passengers was still going on.

By 11.30 pm: After waiting till almost mid night, I decided to go to bed. Unlike full AC Minicoy smaller ship with push back seats to sit / sleep, with glass windows allowing passengers to see the sea from their seats, this bigger ship Bharat Seema with AC Cabins and Non - AC Decks, the sea can not be seen unless we come out from inside the cabins.

07.10.2007(Sunday)

By 4.00 am : It was Sehri time for all Ramjan fasting passengers.Even though,it was dark night outside and the ship was sailing at full speed, many passengers were seen sitting in the spacious cafeteria with very good seating arrangements. They were enjoying their break fast in this 24 hrs open cafeteria providing ice cream, fruit juices, cold drinks also.

By 6.00 am : I got up and saw that the ship was anchored near Kalpeni Island, Cherian Island ( Uninhibited ) and its two Islets ( Pitty, Tilakkam). Being a native of Kalpeni, Mr Bashir Ahmad, retired JE Fisheries Deptt, talked about Kalpeni, Cherian, Pitti, Tilakkam.

By 6.30 am : I took a cup of coffee for Rs 5 along with 2 biscuits in cabin cafeteria within its regulated timings. This was less spacious unlike Deck cafeteria for others.

At about 7.00 am : Met Mohd Nasir(of Androth) serving in Secretariat Kavaratti, talked about Mr P Ranjan Jha young IAS, Mr Wasnik(57) senior most IAS in Lakshadweep

At about 7.10 am : Without any sea sickness due to ship sailing in smooth sea, we were now leaving Kalpeni for Androth giving chance to see few flying fishes near Cherian sea. Saw passengers taking break fast (Upma, egg, banana for Rs 20) in Deck cafeteria.

By 7.30 am : Saw in just opened cabin cafeteria, break fast (Dosa,bread,banana forRs 30) being served.Unlike in Minicoy ship, in Bharat Seema ship, no coffee vending machine.

By 8.30 am : After fresh up, I had my own break fast of roasted Chiwda / Chana, biscuit and Neembu pani. Starting at 9.00 am wrote diary till 9.30 am

By 11.00 am: Came out of cabin, saw from the deck side, the open sea under bright sun. Went inside the deck cafeteria and found passengers sitting on its clean tables, chairs and enjoying tea, boiled eggs and cold drinks for time pass viewing filmy songs onTV. There were two glittering hand wash basins in a side corner cubicle.

Went down stairs to main deck and saw big fans swaying in a big open general hall and in a small enclosed hall for women passengers only, good seating arrangements with seat number marked on cushion benches having back support and for baggage overhead open cupboards. There was a luggage room also. Deck toilets were not so clean, banana skins and other dirty things scattered near stair cases.

By 11.15 am to 12.10.pm: Now Androth Island was within our sight .This Island looks on an elevated land. The ship was standing in crystal clear lagoon water. I could see the sea bottom also. I noticed some local passengers habitually spitting in open sea water. Later I learnt that this spitting is but natural for a fasting Muslim during Ramjan as no one is allowed to swallow own saliva also. Ship garbage collected from deck / cabins were also being thrown in open sea water. Went up to front side of the ship, then on both side ways of the ships, as also on top floor open space With permission, went inside restricted area of ship staff cabins and its doorways.I experienced suffocation in their cabins as against fans airing breeze in our cabins. However the door ways were not at all suffocating.

Went down stairs on deck floor and saw the Androth passengers were dangerously being ferried from ship through smaller boats.

By 2.00 pm : While other passengers were having veg or non veg lunch ( both for Rs30) with Rice, Dal and Curd or Fish, I took my Chana Chiwda, Biscuits and water. After this I tried to sleep in my cabin itself.

By 3.00 pm : went for toilet and saw that the ship was still there. Learnt that the ship will sail only by 5 00 pm from Androth. Saw on deck, fewer passengers left and seeing TV or sleeping on sofas.Good number of TVs were running round the clock for parrengers on deck .One TV was in deck cafeteria also. There were no TVs in cabins or in Cabin Cafeteria. In this ship, public announcements were being made in English only as against in Malayalam only in Minicoy ship when I came to Kavaratti.

Sea can be seen from open ship sides on first floor and also through closed glass windows of both cafeteria, but not from deck or from cabins. The water cooler near cabins had no water and though cabins were having central AC but only best effective in deck cafeteria than cabin cafeteria. However the passage to cabin was having AC effect.

By 3.30 pm : Had coffee (Rs5) with biscuits in cabin cafeteria. Hindi songs were paying here and there but the TV programmes were only in Malayalam. Some passengers shared that Tipu Sultan ship also had similar not so clean toilets.

By 4.00 pm : Saw that the boats have started coming with passengers from Androth Island to embark this Bharat Seema ship. I kept sitting on one sofa of the Deck cafeteria listening to the Hindi songs being played on MP3. Shared some peanuts / oranges offered by one of the co- passengers.

By 5.00 pm : Ship now started sailing for Cochin. Went inside my cabin and started writing diary / reading magazines

By 8.30 pm : Took some Chiwada, biscuits. One of my cabin passengers Mr Akbar (resident of Kalpeni, employed in Agr Deptt there) and his wife offered to me tender coconut water with its kernel. I accepted with gratitude.He was owner of Coconut orchard and was carrying with him number of green coconuts for his son studying in Ernakulam. He has his own house in Ernakulam also given on rent to some tenant.

Mr Akbar also confirmed that the uninhibited Cherian Islet near Kalneni Island has attracted Vijay Mallaya,Business Tycoon, to have the entire Islet purchased on 10 years lease from local land holders. Mallaya intends to develop Cherian for tourism purpose.

By about 8.50 pm: Like most of the passengers, I also decided to go bed

08.10.2007(Monday) after reaching back to Cochin, stay once more in Ernakulam

By about 2.30 am: Got up and went out side to see the sea. It was pitch dark in the night and I saw about a dozen of tanker ships sailing and emanating lights from them

By 6.30 am : Our ship reaching Cochin port now. I took coffee.Telephoned my daughter Mrs Aradhana Mishra. In the meantime, met one IR Bn personnel Mr Bhoumic, said bye.

By 7.20 am : landed on Willington Island Cochin. Telephoned Mr Ram Tiwari of SBI

By 7.30 am : Walked up to Harbour bus stand and boarded bus (Rs 4) to Railway Station Ernakulam. On way saw harbour Police station, Merchant Navy Officers Club, Cochin Port play ground and Nav Sena Vayuyan Yard.

By 8.00 am :After reaching Ernakulam Rly stn reservation counter, booked train ticket for Rs 361 from Ernakulam to Nashik Road by Super fast Lakshadweep Mangala Express departure at 10:45 hrs on 16^th October 2007.

By 8.30 am : Took an auto rikshaw ( Rs 20 ) from Railway stn to SBI Guest house where after bath etc, took tea & snacks, thanks to the guest house care taker

By 10.00 am : via Jews markets,walked up to SBI Zonal Office, met CM PBB Ernakulam CM(HR) Mr PU Chellappan, Manager ( HR ) MR K R Sanjeev who helped forwarding my Application to SBI New Delhi LHO, for appointment as Channel Management Advisor. From here, went by bus to Ravipuram. From a restaurant bought veg biryani parcel for Rs30 to be shared at SBI NRI Branch with BM Mr Ram Tiwari there during lunch recess. Kept busy at SBI Branch with other collegue Phone to elder daughter Mrs Aradhana Mishra, son Dr Anupam, BM Kavaratti Br Mr Prathesh.Phone from younger daughter Smt Archana Sharma.

9.00 pm : Late sitter workohalic BM Mr Ram Tiwari, after closing the branch, took me to a restaurant where we had Dosa and then started by his bike for his residence. Met his wife Mrs Shalini, who said that this late coming is daily routine of her husband and she is accustomed with it. Their daughter Rashi had slept. Both had throat infection to day. For the first time, I saw Japanese sofa cum bed made of soft rubber filled with air and wooden two beds on each other with a ladder to climb for her daughter .Tiwari bought and brought such things from Japan during his posting there just before coming to India at NRI branch Ernakulam here.

11.00 pm : After tea at 10.30 pm during conversations with them, I preferred to sleep on his imported Sofa cum Bed.

09.10.2007(Tuesday) Travel by train from Ernakulam to Alleppy (Alapuzha)

05.00 am : Got up and got ready while Tiwari family was asleep.

06.00 am : Prepared tea myself and sipped while telephoning to elder son Anurag and elder daughter in law Rashmi. Tiwari family was still asleep in his Ernakulam rented flat.

09.00 am : After break fast with Tiwari family, accompanied him on his bike, up to main bus station. From here, the railway station was at a distance of just 5 minutes walk.

09.30 am : So instead of bus, I decided to take Chennai- Alleppy Express ( Ernakulam to Alleppy fare Rs 19 ). Electric Engines driven trains run on Ernakulam – Alleppy – Thiruvantaram, broad gaugeElectrified track.

11.00 am : Reached Alleppy ( now Alappuzha ) via Kumblam, Turvur, Cherthala stations

Met Mr K. Ajith Kumar, Regional Manager, SBI Regional Business Office, Beach Road, Alleppy situated near Rly Stn. After tea etc, he instructed his car driver to take me to Distt Tourism Promotion Council on Jetty Road, Alleppy to find out details of sight seeing of Alleppy back waters etc and then to arrange my stay in Retiring room @ Rs 150

02.00 pm : Took lunch of vegetarian ( South Indian ) thali for Rs 20 in IRCTC restaurant.

05.00 pm : After snacks and tea, saw very well maintained and very neat & clean Alleppy Railway Station ( inside and out side ). The spacious, almost spot less my retiring room was on the first floor. Sitting quietly in its verandah was giving pleasure of viewing local buses carrying passengers very frequently to the famous Punnakkal Kayal (lake) Punnamada Boat lake race side at a distance of about 4.5 km from here..

06.00 pm : Walked 0.7 km from Rly Stn to Alleppy beach. The sea can be seen also from top floor of the Railway Station building itself. On the first floor, the reservation office was also there. In addition to this long beach with fishing boats there are ruins of harbour jetty, ruins of Alleppy ports also.Walked on this beach up to 7 pm till it was dark and the Alleppy light house started beaming lights. On the beach road side, saw a heritage hotel Rahim residency (charges in Euro, in high season Oct to Dec and January to April about Rs 7700 plus 15% taxes, meals per person Rs330 (break fast), light lunch Rs 380, dinner Rs 660) where minimum stay for two nights was mandatory.

Near by on the beach road saw, SBI Alleppy branch, Sea View Park, Harbour restaurant, Govt guest house, where I met its Manager, who agreed to give me one VIP room (Rs150 per day).Took Raju’s bike lift on well lighted way back to Rly Stn due to celebrations of Ramjan giving a festive look near railway station. On the Rly Plateform, saw Coloured Television seating arrangements just like at the Air ports, CCTV, IRCTC restaurant, touch screen PC, Train indication electronic boards etc.

Construction of Ernakulam – Alleppy broad gauge was inaugurated on 15.04.1979 by Madhu Dandvate.Alleppy- Kanyakumari broad gauge(BG) inaugateted on 17.01.1987 by Rajiv Gandhi.New BG railway line inaugurated on 15.10.1989 by Madhav Rao Scindia.

10.10.2007(Wednesday) Stay in Alleppy (Alapuzha), sight seeing of back waters

05.00 am : Got up and saw that it was still dark outside.

06.00 am : Had tea at IRCTC restaurant and after fresh up was ready for morning walk

07.00 am : Walked up to the sea beach and saw Women & Children Govt Hospital, Alleppy Beach Resorts (tariff min Rs 1500 max Rs 2990 plus 15% taxes) overlooking the sea beach, fishing boats, Gokulam Residency, where I found its gate closed.

From sea beach, came towards Office of Supdt of Customs, Sea view Park having boating for children, Foam Matting India Ltd (FOMIL) making coir products, where met factory Supervisor Mr Anoop Kumar (of Alleppy) who led to a Picnic Spot worth seeing.

08.00 am : Now walked towards Vijai Park on sea beach, where saw a Malayalam film shooting going on (Director Jaya Ram, Asstt Director Santosh).Talked to Roopesh actor as ACP in film named “Of the People”. Their similar films “For the People”, “By the People” were famous ones. Later I was also invited to join and give a shot in this film as a morning jogger on the beach doing physical exercise.

After finishing my shot, I walked further on this beach and saw Bishop House, Indian Coffee House, Rahim Bunglow, and also saw about hundred years old Sivparvathy temple on the beach.Met temple Pujariji Pt Vinod from Jamnagar (Gujrat).

In this Alleppy Sivparvathy temple, unusually I was listening Hindi Bhajans, Hanuman Chalisa etc. I also found Hindi scripts in this Hanuman temple “Om Anjani Sutay Vidyameywaya Putraya Dhimahi Tanno Hanumat Prachodayat”. Went inside the Sivparvathy temple and met the Manager and saw one Pujari meditating within the back ground audio cassette run Mantra “Om namah Shivay…Om namah shivay…”

Saw another unusual feature of Kerala Tourism, that the sea beach was being cleaned by a group of women sweepers clad in green Saries and grey jacket. Motor Car driving learners were trying their hands on the beach road and also on an open ground in front of PWD guest house.Phone from my elder daughter Mrs Aradhana Mishra.

Now walked into the premises of SBI Main branch headed by an AGM Mr Madhawan. This building is owned by SBI since the time of its predecessors Imperial Bank of India.

Also saw the Swimming Pool Academy near PWD rest house.

09.00 am: Came back to Rly retiring room after taking Idlies and tea in IRCTC restaurant

12.00 noon : Met Rly Stn Manager Mr Robinson John and thankfully returned the room key to Station Master. I was the only occupant to this double bedded room allotted to me.

12.15 pm : Reached PWD rest house by rikshaw (Rs10), met the caretaker Mr Prasad and occupied the VIP room for two days (Rs300). The two attendants Kamal and Saji guided me how best to see and enjoy the famous back waters of Alleppy, most economically.

Travel by bus from Alleppy to Muhamma and then by ferry to & fro Kumarkom throughVembanad Lake

12.30 pm : As guided, I took a Pulzar bike lift ( Mohd Afzal of Centurian Bank Alleppy ) up to KSRTC bus station and boarded sub-urban bus going to Muhamma (Rs6)

13.15 hrs : Walked from Muhamma bus stand up to nearby Muhamma Jetty to board next SWTD( State Water Transport Deptt) Aquabus steel boat ferry (Rs5) to Kumarakom (9Km run in about 45 minutes) through back waters of Vembanad lake (looking like Chilika lake), Meenachil river mouth meeting the sea. In between saw beautiful Island Pathiramanal with flocks of only birds living there (a bird sanctuary) and so far unhibited. Uninhibited. bird sanctuary

Kumarkom can also be reached from Alleppy by road going to Kotayyam through Thanneermukkam Bund where sea water and river water are divided.

On way to Kumarkom, I saw well decorated house boats, canoes, fishermen and water weeds, floating hyacinths etc

A few days later I saw a news paper (Sunday Express of 14.10.2007) report stating that “Waterweeds and hyacinths enroute Kumarkom – Muhamma got curled up in the engine of the Aquabus steel boat of SWTD hardly fifteen minutes after it left the Kumarkom Jetty at 3 pm and the gear system got stuck due to heavy load, eventually making it lifeless carrying about 60 passengers on board”

13.45 hrs : Had lunch (Rs20) at Paddy Field Restaurent where Binoy ( of Kumarkom ) was very helpful. Talked to Roychadhury ( an Engineer ), and his wife ( working for BSNL ), who had come from NOIDA to see Alleppy etc and had stayed overnight here at Tharavadu (which means family home ) Heritage Home owned by Mrs Renu Joseph and her husband Mr Joseph John ( of Kotayyam ).Talked with Renu, John and their Heritage Home Manager Mr Murali.

16.15 hrs : For return journey, boarded ferry from Kumarkom to Muhamma and then by bus from Muhamma passing through many small villages enroute reaching Alleppy by about 19.15 pm. Bought fruits ( apples and oranges ) from Fruits market in Alleppy.

19.30 hrs : Reached PWD rest house. Ate fruits. Phone calls from younger sister Shobha, elder son in law Peeyush, elder daughter Aradhana and grand daughter baby Karika.

11.10.2007(Thursday) Travel by Bus Alleppy to Trivendrum, to & fro

05.00 am : Got up and went for morning walk on the sea beach.Took tea at the beach itself. On return, I saw that my VIP carpeted room No. 4 was spacious with sofa sets, but no working lights in toilet & staircase.Talked with room attendant who was helpless like in any Govt Deptt.

07.00 am : Discussed today’s plan of visits. Saji helped and I decided to visit Kovallam beach near Thiruvantapuram and return back to Alleppy by evening.

08.00 am : Since no train was available before 11.30 am, so I decided to go from Rly Stn to KSTC Bus Station ( Rs3.50 ) and travel by bus from Alleppy to Thiruvantapuram.

08.45 am :.Boarded bus for Thiruvantapuram ( Rs 85 ) on NH 47 mostly running along sea beach side. Saw on way, Ambalapuzha having Medical College and Krishna temple, Kotapally lake, Haripad, Kayamkulam lake, Oachjra, Karunagapally,Amrithapuri Ashram Chavara, Kollam/Quilon, Ashtamudi lake back waters, Chatnoor, Attingal, RBI, Trivendrum Rly Stn Thampanoor,Bus Station situated opposite Rly Stn Trivendrum.

13.15 Hrs : Took lunch ( Rs22 ) at Rly Stn Veg restaurant and coffee ( Rs 5 ) at bus stn. Bought (Rs5) one brown coloured banana ( Kappa Pazham ). These copper brown banana is sold for Rs 5 to Rs 7 each. These are not for taste but for medicinal use. Sometimes in some temples, such bananas are given as Prasadam.

Learnt that Thiruvanthapuram ( Trivendrum ) has around it, the Sahya mountain ranges. Kollam ( Quilon ) has 233 cashew nut factories out of total 265 in whole of Kerala. Kollum-Allapuzha water route through Asthamudi lake ( Kayal ), is a thrilling experience

13.45 Hrs : Availed advance seat reservation (Rs2 ) for Super fast bus from Trivendrum to Alleppy ( Rs 91 ). Saw on way back, SBI Thampanoor, Library, Stadium, Assembly, Distt Panchayat, Kerala Public Service Commission, Kendriya Vidyalay (KV) Pattom, SBI Pattom, SBI PBB, Medical College, SBI Sreekaryam, Kerala State Electricity Board, Kovallam junction at Kazhakuttan, Kaniyapuram, KV Pallipuram, Mangalpuram etc.

Saw on one side of NH 47, Arabian Sea, its beaches, lakes and back waters

18.00 Hrs : Reached back to PWD guest house.Phone to younger son Dr Anupam Ojha and elder daughter Mrs Aradhana Mishra.

12.10.2007(Friday) Sight seeing of Alleppy back waters 11 am to 01 pm by private hired boat for self only through Vembanad Lake; and

Same day travel through Vembanad Lake to Kotayyam by 02.30 pm SWTD boat

06.00 am : went for morning walk on sea beach and took tea there itself.

08.00 am : Walked up to the Railway reservation office next to Alleppy Rly Stn and booked Sr. Citizen ticket ( Rs 320 ) for travel from Nashik road to Hazarat Nizamuddin, New Delhi on 23.10.07 by 2617 Superfast Lakshadweep Mangala Express.

While walking back to PWD guest house from Rly station after having break fast ( Idly & tea ), saw enroute fresh fishes kept for sale eg Nemi ( means King ) @Rs140 / kg, smaller shark Rs 100, Chura ( Tuna ) Rs 50, Live Shells Rs 40, Matti ( for chips ) Rs 20

10.00 am : Checked out from this excellent PWD guest house. The ever helpful attendant Saji gave me his bike lift through markets (saw Mullakkal temple in centre of Alleppy town) and reached Private Ferry Jetty point for sight seeing of back waters by hired canoe well decorated and with very good seating / viewing arrangements. Saji again helped me in contacting / bargaining with the Excellent Travels & Tourist Boat service

11.00 am to 1.00 pm : Paid Rs 350 and hired their full motor boat for sight seeing around Kuttanad from 11 am to 1.00 pm exclusively for me alone with boat owner as guide also.

11.15 am : Starting and passing through small canal, saw Nehru Pavalion ( Boat race point ) on a small Island near mouth of the canal entering Punnamada lake. Saw several well furnished big size house boats lined near the banks of the lake. Saw number of sailing boats in the lake for sight seeing by tourists. All these boats were slow sailing just like this canoe in which I was sailing. Saw villages on small islands along the banks of the canals. Saw small boats (some motorized) parked near individual houses for their personal uses ferrying men / materials across canals.

On these islands some resorts also available to tourists for rentals. All along these canals, dikes are made of stone walls on its both sides. These canals are about 2 meters deep. Its silt is dredged regularly by PWD to keep it navigable

11.30 am : Now saw water sports island looking like a big ground, maintained by Sports Authority of India. Several Snake boats were housed therein.

11.45 am : Surrounded by coconut and banana plantations, saw very large paddy fields lying below sea level called Kuttanad, spread in several acres on about ten islands owned by rich land lords. The excess water from these fields is pumped out in to the canals. Most of these islands are fully electrified.The paddy cultivation is done by permanently kept labourers who man these fields by automated tractors, diesel / power generator sets

12 noon : Halted for some time at Arjun lake resort ( Kairali Ayurvedic Centre ). After taking tender coconut water (Rs12), while returning back, saw many house boats now sailing with cheering tourists. It was looking like Venice (of Holland ) in India.

12.45 pm : Saw Lake Palace Resort Island(looking like five star hotel) near Alleppy Jetty.

13.00 Hrs : Reached back to Alleppy near Govt Jetty.

13.30 Hrs : Took lunch ( meals Rs20) in SAS Restaurant. The caring manager was very helpful. in guiding me how and when to get Govt ferry ( Speed boat ) going to Kotayyam.

02.30 pm : Met co-passenger, a young Biotech Scientist Mr Thomas K V, resident of Mandiram situated at 6 km from Kotayyam on Thekkady Road. He was working for Rubber Research Institute of India (RRII) in Kotayyam.. He had been to NIOT Kavaratti also when he was working in National Institute of Oceanology, Chennai.

Boarded SWTD Ferry, paid fare just Rs 10 each from Alleppy to Kotayyam carrying / picking / dropping passengers of villages on islands enroute canal / lake, halting on canal side jetty, criss crossing on both sides of the canals.

Chanced to see one snake boat on canal side.

Now this ferry was entering the wider National Waterways ( NW like NH ) . Here saw QST Lake, R B block, a newly built church and some old time ruins of houses.

Also saw a dredger on one side of the canal banks and many smaller boats loaded with paddy harvest / fodder grass. These boats in a row were towed by a single motor boat.

Saw several paddy fields on smaller islands on both sides of the canals, looking great.

03.30 pm : Saw small houses in a line under coconut / banana / groves / flower plants on both sides of the canals. It was cloudy weather and white birds were flying in a V shaped formation above these canals.

04.15 pm : Now Kotayyam is 5 km away. Ferry entered in less wide canals. Saw marshy land on both sides and small bridges across canals, liftable to allow the ferry to sail in and cross these bridges. Here we could see now small bunglows on both sides of the canals.

One night stay at PWD Guest house Kotayyam

04.45 pm: It started raining before we reached Jetty in Kotayyam. I and Thomas hired an autorikshaw (Rs40) and reached PWD rest house built on a nearby hillock. Here we saw a number of flag cars parked and then we could guess that some VIPs were staying there. We approached Manager Mr Kunj Mohan, who welcomed but asked us to wait for some time when one room was expected to be vacated. Within about half an hour, double bed Room No. 3 was allotted to me against payment of just Rs100. After putting my luggage here, we went by same autorikshaw to Hero Honda Service Centre to collect his bike and then came back to India Coffee House to have coffee with Dosa courtesy Mr Thomas.

After this on his bike, wishing me best of journey, he left for his native place 6 km away

06.00 pm : Kotayyam was looking like hill station with quite good roads, many high rise buildings, shops, offices, SBI branches / ATMs etc. From Thomas I learnt that Kotayyam is an important centre for Rubber based industries. On coming back to PWD rest house room I took tea brought by the room boy Babu.

PWD rest house ( Kotayyam ) is on high rise hill top ground over looking town below it. There were ten rooms on its ground and first floors. These rooms were well maintained with quite clean toilets and good floorings. Eight rooms were double bedded with one separate bed in another small space through entry room probably for servants / drivers. Also having one dressing room and a spacious toilet. There were separate dining halls on each floor where as per menu; ordered food was served to guests against subsidized payment.Even now about half a dozen cars and more than ten bikes were seen parked in its spacious campus. This rest house was surrounded by beautiful shady trees and two metalled roads, one towards town and the other towards Jetty.Bus station was nearer but Railway station was about 2.5 km away.

07.00 pm : Well lit PWD rest house in the night, as also well lighted Kotayyam town looking magnificent below. Down hills PWD rest house premises, were two main roads ( one way only ) busy with vehicular traffic of cars, autos, buses running in night also. Nearby bus station was like busy ISBT with buses plying frequently throughout night. Shops near this bus station were open 24 hrs as also tea / coffee / dosa / paratha vendors. Good hotels for staying and a few starred hotels seen fitted with transparent tube lifts.

13.10.2007(Saturday) Travel by bus from Kotayyam to Kumily then to Thekaddy

05.30 am : Got up and tried to get bed tea but no body was awake in this rest house. So went for morning walk around rest hose premises and then below on the exit road leading to Jetty side. Saw a temple with morning worshippers. The distance board here on main highway indicated that on its one side was Kumarakom ( 16 Km ), Kochi ( 72 Km ), Munnar ( 147 Km ) and on its other side was Alleppy ( 46 Km ), Kollam ( 137 Km ), Trivendrum ( 152 Km ) and Kanya Kumari ( 250 Km )

06.30 am : Came back from morning walk, again tried and got tea after 15 minutes.

08.00 am : From the heights of PWD rest house, chanced to see below a running train. After fresh up, got ready and handed over the room key to the Manager.Walked up to the Bus station. Took break fast ( idly and tea ) and waited for any bus going to Kumily.

08.30 am : Boarded KSRTC bus to Kumily ( 106 Km fare Rs 60 ) and shortly this bus was running fast through Rubber plantations followed by Pine apples, Banana, Coconut groves spread on both sides of scenic hilly road, enroute Vijaipuram, Pambadi, Vazhoor, Ponkunnam, Kanjirapalli bus stands.

09.10 am : Reached Mundakayam bus station approximately mid way to our destination Kumily which was now 57 Km. A rivulet crossed our road here. After some time, saw Boyce Rubber plantations on NH 220 where Ghat road starts and then Travancore rubber & Tea plantations. In between, saw a water fall and lush green hills, cool breeze, zigzagging road. There was no much vehicular traffic on this road except few personal cars also intermittently running towards Kumily / Thekaddy.Cardamom, pepper creepers also seen amidst these plantations.

10.30 am : Reached Malankara Church Coffee Estate.on top of hill here.Saw Buras like (Rhonodrones) red flowering trees at Peerumade.On road here, saw SBI Pambnar branch where all around the hills were full of green carpet like tea gardens. Few shops here were selling locally produced tea leaves, spices etc.

10.50 am : Our bus now rolling down the hilly road ( NH 220 ) entering Vandiperiyar by 11 am. Saw Ram Bahadur Thakur tea estate Ltd, whose owner’s Thakur house at Fort Cochin Island was seen by me.Chanced to see some Ayurvedic & spices gardens. Also saw an unique Coffee Home made on a tree and reachable only through bamboo ladder from main road.

11.30 am : Our bus arrived Kumily. I got down here and hired an auto rikshaw (Rs40) to reach Thekaddy – Periyar Lake at about 4 km through forest road paying entry fee Rs25

12.00 noon Bought boat ticket (Rs 45) for 2 pm boat service.Took dosa & tea in a lake side restaurant amidst many monkeys.Visited the museum there and read about Mullaperiyar dam constructed on Periyar river, thus making a large lake here now a National Park for Elephants, tigers, deers etc.

British Chief Engr Col John Penny Cuick built this 26 squire Km dam in 1895. A photo was displayed showing the dam under construction in 1885. Periyar lake reservoir was made in 1899, Wild life sanctuary in 1950 and Elephant Reserve in 1991. Eco-friendly Project started in 1996. Another photo was displayed showing this dam in 2005, now irrigating 58000 Hectare agricultural land in Tamil Nadu. While waiting for boat timing, saw from inside the KTDC Hotel Lake Palace in Periyar Tiger Reserve. Once, Kings Cottage, now it is a heritage hotel named Aranya Niwas, a costly hotel (tarrif minimum Rs 3500 plus taxes). Saw bamboo rafting being done by forest officials.

Periyar is main river in Idukki Distt. In Kerala, this is only distt where garlic is produced in addition to pepper, lemon grass, tea, cardamom. About 75 Km from Kotayyam on way to Kumily/Thekaddy/Idukki, Peerumedu is famous for coffee and tea estates Also famous for Mangladevi temple here, Kumily is the gateway to the tourist centre Thekaddi / Periyar lake and Idukki Arch Dam At about 4000 ft height, Cheruthoni (surrounding place of Idukki Dam and Chreruthoni Dam near Painav) gives clear view of Cochin from here.

02.00 pm : Boarded one of the six boats starting punctually one by one for sight seeing in about 130 meters deep lake water. The cloudy weather changed to bright sun light giving better view wild life in forests on both sides of the lake banks.

Chanced to see a tiger cub, herds of elephants, bisons, wild cows, white birds perched on the dried up tree trunk tops with orchids grown on it submerged in this lake, here and there. Some tribals living in these forests were seen fishing on the lake shores

03.00 pm : Out boat reached Periyar Dam and thereafter, all boats started returning. Talked to one of my co-passengers, Stephen (class XII student in Govt H.S. Kumily) with his elder sister accompanying her friend’s family from Chennai explained to me all about Periyar and also shared their binocular to see the wild life closely

03.15 pm : It started drizzling which made all the passengers sheltering under boat roof

before reaching back to the lake jetty by 3.45 pm

04.00 pm : Took auto rikshaw (Rs40) from lake site in Thekaddy to Kumily town This auto driver Sathish Saji ( of Green Valley Tours & Travels, Lake road Thekaddy ) helped me in getting in contact with Sabu Elias, owner of Deer Villa Home Stay, Mundakal Bye Pass Road, Thekaddy, near bus station Kumily town.

Sabu provided me the boarding & lodging both, just for Rs300, one very decent neat and clean carpeted double bed room with CTV, attached toilet, solar system heated hot water.

In the back side of the same compounded premises, he had his home also. Later, I met his wife Alice and two kids Ans (daughter), Anup (son).Also met his tenant shop keeper John Murugesh having a general provision stores.

After I got fresh up in my room, their hospitality started with offer of hot tea in thermos elegantly placed in a tray. Along side was kept a bone china cup & saucer.

This Deer Villa Home Stay has total 6 rooms on two floor newly constructed building including one suite having drawing – dining hall and a kitchen. All rooms were with attached tiled clean toilets, provision of hot & cold water supply, CTV, double beds, new linen & blankets, chair- tables, well furnished newly built room with latest flooring, matching curtains and wall to wall carpets. The premises of this Home had fruit trees of small exotic herbal Amla like Karonda, creepers like Tez Patta, Kali Mirch and Pan Patta, Coconut, Jack fruit, Silver oak, Mango and Cocoa (fruit for making chocolates). The front road of this Home Stay passes through similar other Home Stays and around these are coffee plantations. This small good town was a gateway to other tourist places like hill station, lakes, forests etc with a little costlier boarding & lodging.

05.00 pm : After hot water bath, walked up to bus station and saw nearby places / market

08.00 pm : Returned to room and met Sabu Elias. With great interest, he showed his other rooms of Deer Villa. After knowing my keen desire of travelling, he suggested me to visit Munnar also and then after one night stay there, to go back to Ernakulam from Munnar.

08.30 pm : He offered a very well presented dinner of Kerala food only. I liked the warm boiled rice ( in casserole ), Bhindi, Coconut, Green veg ( in bowls ), Rassam ( in a cup with lid ) two good quality spoons, all placed in a tray decently and two Papadam, crispy Poories so tasty that I ate and emptied all dishes in full, leaving only some boiled rice, which I could not eat anymore.

09.30 pm : Watching TV programmes for some time, I went to bed and slept well.

14.10.2007(Sunday) Travel by bus from Kumily to Munnar Hill station

4.00 am : Got up early in the morning . It was raining. Peeped outside and saw well lit road but silent, unlike not so silent roads in Kotayyam. Still raining upto 5 am and now the electricity light gone. Used candle light to quell the darkness in the room, but within 5 minutes power light came (perhaps no power for TV).Heard a few vehicular movements on the road. Switched off fan to enjoy warmth in the cool weather with blankets on me.

6.00 am : The road in front of this newly constructed excellent home stay in Kumily, is on Thekkady / Periyar lake bye pass and is busy with traffic. Now I am waiting for my bed tea in the room. Sharp at 6.05 am, as requested bu me, the hot red tea without milk and without sugar was served by the host Mr Sabu.

7.45 am : Talked with Mr Sabu about Kumili. He said it is a hill station at a height of about 3500 ft and its 20 degree temperature in summers attracts nearby Tamil Nadu people who have to face the 45 degree hot & sultry weather. He says that I should not miss Munnar hill station at still higher height of about 6000 ft. And from Munnar, I should catch last pvt. bus at about 5 pm to reach Ernakulam by 9 pm. So that I get full clear day on 15^th Oct,(Monday) to visit Thrissur/Guruvayur also in one day before leaving for my further scheduled visit to Nashik on 16^th Oct and then on 23th Oct from Nashik back to New Delhi and then to Dehradun.

8.30 am : Breakfast ( Idiappam with Chana Masala curry ) and hot tea brought by Sabu, in a casserole and a saucer with cover lid. I relished this very tasty Keralite dish.

9.00 am : Paid cash Rs300 to Sabu and thanked him for excellent home stay along with complementary tea, dinner, breakfast. Sabu also told about his friend followed by his phone to Mr Sathis C B who is having similar arrangement of home stay in Munnar. Then I walked upto bus station and took seat in a pvt bus No.KL 6C 369 with good seats.

9.45 am : Bus left punctually for Munnar ( fare Rs68). Talked with some co – passengers, one of which was a Swedish young couple visiting Kerala,Goa, Mumbai etc and another from Munnar itself going to his home town. All front seats were kept reserved for ladies.

10.00 am : Saw enroute one Spices Paradise and Herbal garden, red coloured flowering trees name could not be known to me. I saw for the first time, Cardamom (Ilaichi) plantations. While Swedish lady was awake, her young husband was asleep.

10.15 am : Saw one cardamom grading centre. Entered Vandanamettu bus station and then by 11.45 am, Nedumkandam, comparatively a big town. Here I was told this town was a midway place before reaching Munnar. For the first time for me, a very unusual mobile tea vendor on his bicycle, was seen here. I took tea for Rs3 from him.

12.15 am : At Udumbanchola, here I saw ICRI (Indian Cardamom Research Institute). The bus was running on NH 49, a well maintained road with not much traffic. Only few local dwellers were seen now and then otherwise only Cardamom plantations on both sides of the road. Presence of flags of some Political parties were seen, most of these were of CPI(M), some were of Congress and at least one of BJP at Santhanpura. Just like, tea / coffee boards in the country for their development / marketing, here was seen by me, one Spices Board on the lines of tea / coffee boards.

1.00 pm : Now at Poopava, which is just 30 Km before reaching Munnar. Many tea Estates here seen in open high rise valley (like paddy fields at Gaucher in Distt Chamoli (Uttarakhand . Bus stayed here for more than 5 minutes for tea break. Surprisingly I saw green guavas (red inside) being sold here for Re1 each.

After 10 minutes, bus started for further heights to Munnar.Again many Cardamom plantations on both sides of road. Here I saw close view of cardamom cluster fruits / seeds shooting up from the bases of the plants.

Now, very big open high valley. Here, tea gardens are spread every where in a most magnificent design. We could see below the road, a big Seethadevi lake and a big Chinnar dam.

1.50 pm : It was misty here at Pothemedu view point, where on a thin rocky road, was a deep forest valley (gorge ) and the other side was the rocky hill.

2.00 pm : Now the weather was foggy but the tea gardens again seen every where in an open high rise valley. These tea gardens were looking like thick green carpets in the valley above valley.

2.15 pm : Reached Devikulam, where Govt offices and some upcoming high rise buildings were seen. Saw again, the tea gardens – rivulets – water falls.

2.30 pm : Finally reached Munnar. Surprisingly, an autorikshawala was waiting for my arrival (I think, arranged by Mr Sathis, the owner of Home Stay here). The riksha driver drove me to the Westend Cottage (Home Stay)

Situated not on main road and not newly constructed but spacious and comfortable. In this home stay, I saw gas geyser for the first time which gives instant running hot water any time you open the tap.

Paid Rs10 for rikshaw and occupied room for rental Rs200 without any complementary unlike that offered by his friend Mr Sabu at Kumily.

3.00 pm : So, walked out for meals in one South Indian restaurant, where I was served excellent food & services for Rs25 only. After taking meals, walked and saw all around and also sat in an internet café for one hour.

6.00 pm : Came back to room. No Airtel connectivity here, only that of BSNL, Vodafone services was available then.

6.30 pm : Walked again around Munnar to know and see more. Met and talked with SBI Branch Manager Mr Hari who apprised me in detail about Munnar Hill Station.Got some picture cards of Medupetty Lake, Tront lagoon Kundala, Hydel Park, and road map of Munnar and nearby places. Also went inside the Munnar Inn ( rental Rs1200 onwards )

7.30 pm : Sathis, the owner of Westend Cottage Home Stay, also briefed me about fauna and flora of Munnar, nearby places, their historical accounts

Devikulam hill station and Seethdevi lake are situated at about 7 Km away from Munnar Eravikulam-Rajamala wild life sanctuary is about 12 Km from Munnar on different route Neelakkurunji flower plants blossom here only once in 12 years Three beautiful water falls are situated at Thommankuthu, Valaakuth, Thenmarikkuthu An endangered Nilgiri Thar goats are found in Rajamala, 15 Km away from Munnar in Eravikulam National Park, where these rare mountain goats are estimated to be 1317 only Munnar (moonu means three, ar means rivers), is a wide open valley at a height of about 1600 mtrs, from where three rivers emanate namely Kundaley, Nallathany,Mutrapuzha. Tea Valley conducted tour for Rs 250 each daily 10 am to 6 pm, covers Mattapetty, Kundala Dam, Rajmala, Echo Point, Top Stn, and Pothameda View Pt. Sandal valley conducted tour covers Naimakad View Pt, Lakkam view pt, coffee plantations, sandal wood forests, Pious Nagar village view, and Chinnar wild life sanctuary.

8 to 9 pm : Read various publications on Munnar and Kerala tourism.

10.00 pm : Now going to bed after eating some fresh fruits. Weather is quite cold here even in side the room. I used both the blankets to keep my body cosy & warm in night.

15.10.2007(Monday) Travel by bus from Munnar to Aluva / Guruvayoor temple

5.30 am : Got up early in morning but no body was awake except those who had to catch first bus at 5.30 am from here to their respective places

6.00 am : Walked out side and saw the beautiful scenery spread all over. However, some demolitions of buildings were seen which, later I learnt that these encroachments were demolished earlier but now it is slowed down or stopped for political reasons.

6.30 am : Got a cup of tea from the cottage owner and experienced the gas geyser installed there costing Rs3500 at Munnar.

7.00 am : Walked up to the bus station. Pvt. Bus to Aluva (departure 8.10 am) was to be changed at Kothamangala, so I decided to take KSRTC bus to Aluva (departure 8.40 am)

8.40 am : The bus left most punctually from Munnar to Aluva (fare Rs60 )

9.40 am : Reached Adimali. It was on NH 49 now that the banana, pine apple plantations as also the oranges garden, eucalyptus forests, thin bamboo shoots as a thick forests on the sides of the road. Saw a water fall where many tourists were enjoying their bath. Reached a place where a river crossed our road and there was a Navodaya Vidyalaya.

10.40 am : Before Kothamangala at 11.10 am and then Perumbvor at 12, now our bus was running in planes when we reached Aluva at 12.40 pm

01.00 pm : Had lunch ( South Indian meals Rs22) and then boarded Kanyakumai - Mumbai express at 1.30 pm, reaching Thrissur at about 3 pm

04 PM : And then travelled about 30 Km by local pvt bus ( fare Rs 13.50 ) to Guruvayoor

In Aluva, saw Periyar river meeting sea. International Air Port Kochi was also seen. In Thrissur, saw a road junction where 5 or 6 roads were meeting / crossing. And then came Medical College on NH 17 leading to Guruvayoor In guruvayoor, saw SBI Branch and met the Branch Manager. After leaving my baggage there, walked up to near by Railway Station and on way had darshan of Parsharthy Temple ( installed by Adi Shankaracharya ) Guruvayoor Railway Station foundation stone was laid on 17.12.1995 by the then Chief Minister K Karunakaran together with Suresh Kalmadi. Much more than my expectations, this terminal Railway Station is well maintained and quite big one even with only one express train (Guruvayoor-Chennai) from here Met Station Master Mr Parmeshwaran who was very helpful in guiding me as also in providing occupancy in Retiring room ( Rs75 ) 3 Km away from Guruvayoor, there is Elephant Training Centre at Punnathur

06 PM : Walked up to Guruvayoor temple premises ( truly quite large one )

07 PM : Returned to SBI Branch.Discussed with BM Mr Shailesh about SBI Chairman Sri O P Bhatt’s initiatives on Project Parivartan. Phones to /from Mr Ram Tiwari, Mrs Aradhana Mishra – Sgt Peeyush Mishra, Dr Anupam Ojha.

09.PM : Now after the only express train ( Guruvayoor – Chennai ) has departed, the entire railway station is off the busy looking station. I was the only occupant of seven bedded spacious well maintained dormitory here. After writing diary pages, slept by 10.

16.10.2007(Tuesday) Travel by 7 am Passenger train from Guruvayoor to Ernakulam and then by 10.45 am Mangla Express Superfast train to Nashik

04.30 am : Got up and after fresh up / bath etc

05.00 am : Walked out wearing Baniyan and Shorts only and Chappals on feet. First did Darshan and Parikrama of Parsharthy temple just opposite Rly Stn and then reached main Guruvayoor temple. Large number of Darshanarthies was already there. I purchased new white Lungi (Rs45). I had to take out my Baniyan also and bare footed entered the main Temple gate in Lungi only, leaving Chappal outside the gate, keeping baniyan in hand.

06.00 am :There I had close Darshan and Parikrama of Guruvayoor temple. After a glass of tea in temple market, returned to Retiring room.

Guruvayoor temple has four entrances: East Nada, West Nada, North Nada, South Nada East Nada leads to main entry point to the temple gate opposite NH 17 and other roads leading to Thrissur(West side), Kozhikode(South side), Ernakulam/Sabrimala(North side) Main bus station in a large compound is on NE side next to Guruvayoor temple; and SBI / Rly Stn are on a walkable distance from temple on its SW side Many Hotels (showing House full board), Commercial Establishments, Offices, Shops, Banks, ATMs etc were lined up elegantly in Guruvayoor main roads. “Menaf” was One Stop Shop like a Mall near main bus station I purchased from here to carry home, one packet of locally made Sambhar Masala (Rs12)

07.00 am : After taking train ticket (Rs15) from Guruvayoor to Aluva, checked out to board Guruvayoor-Ernakulam passenger train which departed punctually at 7 am full of commuters to Ernakulam / Kochi. Ate some sprouted grams, Chiwda, ground nuts, apples

09.40 am : Reached Ernakulam Jn. Telephoned Ram Tiwari and bade good bye

10.55 am : Boarded Mangla Express ( late by 10 minutes ).

12.30 pm : Took lunch of South Indian meals(Rs25) at Thrissur Rly Stn

01.15 pm : Saw a big river before reaching Shorannur Jn. An RPF official at the Rly Stn told and later confirmed by co traveller Mr K Narayanan of Pattambi that this mighty Bharathpuzha river which meets the sea near Ponnami, was equally big as Periyar meeting sea near Aluva. Our train was running almost parallel to this river up to Kuttipuram. There was another big river Ferok and then was Kalai river near Calicut. Here some 4 – 5 years back there was a big railway accident in which the train bogey had derailed and passengers had fallen in to this river.

Got tea with no sugar, no milk from Pantry (Rs4) and met another co passenger Mr Ninju of Calicut, who was serving Indian Army at Alwar. He also confirmed the train accident.

04.20 pm : Now the train was running just parallel to sea beach and nearest just before Thallaserry, which has also a river and its back waters giving scenic beauty to all this.

05.20 pm : Reached Kannur. Here also was a wide, big river crossing the Rly line twice

06.25 pm : Reached Nileshwaram. Here a small river crossed Rly line twice.

Saw some sign boards of political parties BJP / RSS here.

07.05 pm : Reached Kasargod. Here saw lake like water body and house around it and looking twinkling with their lights on.

08.10 pm : Reached Kankanadi. Here also a river named Netravati which becomes natural border for Kerala and Karnataka States. Kankanadi is the main Rly Stn for Mangalore city. From here Karnataka State begins with well lighted Highways passing parallel to this Rly line. Manglore City terminus Rly Stn is not on the main Railway line.

Mangalore sea Port is famous for Cargo ships. This information was shared by Arjun, a Mangalore Engg Student, who boarded this train for joining friend’s wedding in Delhi.

09.00 pm : After eating some Chiwada, Chana, Biscuit, Amla, Apple, slept when Konkan Rly Stns Udipi, Bhatkal, Madgaon ( Goa ), Sawantwadi Rd etc came on way.

17.10.2007(Wednesday)

01.30 am : I woke up almost past mid night to see that the train was now passing through tunnels after tunnels with fewer Rly Stns on this Konkan broad gauge tract.

06.00 am : Got up and went in to the Pantry to take tea (Rs4) without sugar.

07.40 am : Reached Ratnagiri Rly stn and I found that this train was not running even like a fast train what to talk of Super fast train and was now running late

08.40 am :. Train passed by Sangameswar Station where I saw a wild grass cutting hand held machine which was motorized and faster.

09.25 am : At Chiplun, from Pantry I had Masala Dosa, Vada, Chatni not worth Rs22

10.25 to 10.35 am : Train passed consequently through two tunnels, perhaps longest ones

01.05 pm : Train runs non stop for four and half hours from Chiplun to reach Panvel Stn, the last one on this side of Konkan Railway.

02.00 pm : Reached Kalyan Jn (near Mumbai)

04.00 pm : Reached Igatpuri Jn where the train halted for more than 20 minutes for water filling etc. Here I saw big size juicy and attractive guavas. I purchased 2 for Rs5 only

05.00 pm : Reached Nashik road station where my son in law Sgt Peeyush was waiting for me at the main gate. Came out of the quite good and busy Nasik road Railway Station

Riding on his scooter driven by him on way to HAL town ship, Ojhar ( MIG ), saw Govt of India Currency Printing Press, Central Jail at Nashik, on 2 way very wide Road, fruits and vegetables in abundance kept for sale on the pavement. Within few minutes drive on inner roads, we were soon on NH 3 ( famous Mumbai-Agra Road ). Just before reaching his residence in HAL Township, saw Air Force Station (MIG)11BRD(BaseRepairDepot).

We entered HAL Township through its gate No.2 driving on a two lane wide road with greenery on both sides.

Stay with Son-In-Law Sgt Peeyush Mishra in HAL Township Ojhar (MIG) Nashik

05.45 pm : Finally reached his flat No.3103 on ground floor, where my grand daughter baby Karika Mishra was playing with her friend Guddu, Laddoo etc and my daughter Mrs Aradhana Mishra was waiting in her spacious compounded residence.

Received phone call from my younger son Dr Anupam Ojha

Afre tea and snacks etc, walked out with Karika to see the local Bhaji market and Dandiya dance celebrations in HAL town ship Campus itself.

09.00 pm : After good dinner, went to bed at about 9.30 pm, leaving Aradhana for her preparation of tomorrow’s B Ed Exams.

18.10.2007(Thursday) Nashik Darshan by car with Son in law Peeyush Mishra

04.00 am : Heard clock alarm and saw that Peeyush had got up and was preparing him self for reporting to his morning duty at 11BRD office (Air Force Stn).

05.00 am : I also sot up and while taking tea, briefed him about my visit to Lakshadweep. By now it was day light and I saw around the open space within the hedged compound of his ground floor flat. A number of fruit bearing trees like Mangoes, Black berry, Almond, Stone apple, Fig, Guava, Custard apple, Jungle Jalebi were in his compound. Ashoka tree was also seen there within the overgrown vegetation fencing hedge within which lies an unutilized space for kitchen garden

07.30 am : Got ready for a whole day outing “ Nashik Darshan” along with baby Karika and Sgt Peeyush, in a chauffeur ( Manohar) driven car of Peeysh’s friend. Aradhana did not accompany because of her B.Ed. exams in her KTHM Degree College, Nashik / NDMVP Samaj’s Library and College of Education, Nashik.

08.00 am : Car departed from residence through Gate No.1of HAL residential township and started running on N H 3 and within minutes we were at nearby Durga Mata temple premises also having Ahilyabai Holkar Jalkumbh, and an old Banyan tree well kept. This tree was aesthetically groomed in which innovation and creativity was evident.

We performed Navratri Nariyal Puja, Ghat Darshan and I appreciated that banyan tree.

08.10 am : Car was again on NH 3 and shortly entered a two lane road through a big gate of Air Force Station Ojhar ( MIG ) campus and saw 11 BRD office of Sgt Peeyush. We visited Karika’s Kendriya Vidyalaya AFS Ojhar (MIG).

08.15 am : We drove up to Chindha Devi temple situated at another gate of HAL within security zone and restricted entry due to AFS Air Strip specially for Defense / VIP Air crafts. I heard range firing being done by defense personnel around here but the serenity of the temple and devotees were unmindful of all these distraction. Here also we did Saptami Navratri Nariyal Ghat Pujan. I saw small cut pieces of cloth ( Chindhi ) tied by visiting devotees on the iron fencings praying Chindha Mata Devi ( Durga Mata ) to fulfill their wishes. Met Shrawan Kumar (of Sadabad, Agra), another Air Force personnel doing B Ed here along with my daughter Aradhana.Talked with some of the local Marathi worshippers who explained the history of Chindhi Mata temple. I wished them well and bade good bye.

08.30 am : Car passed through Ojhar town market on NH 3, a suburb of Nashik.

08.35 am : Car entered SamarthNager gated residential colony on NH 3,Mumbai Agra Rd

In this colony, there is a park, a temple, some shops and in its neighborhood one college for B.Ed. It is here that Sgt Peeyush had recently purchased a 200 sq yards residential plot (33ft-55ft) of land. There is nothing in between Peeyush land and NH3 except grapes and tomatoes orchard. Nashik City is about 16 Km from here and Gate of Municipal limit is about 12 Km on NH 3. I commended his land investment here in Nashik near Mumbai.

09.15 am : Near Nashik Road Rly Stn, we visited Muktidham(Sita Ram Laskhaman) temple and in its campus, the Bhakt Niwas Dharamshala, Hashya club in side of a park,

10.00 am : Telephoned to Mr M C Mangal (of Dehradun but now settled here), my niece Rinki and her hubby Abhishek Mishra (working for Siemens and living in his flat No. 10 B Wing of Samarth Apartment near Tulsi Park, Model Colony, Shivaji Nagar, Jail Road), Nashik.Visited this flat to see her son about one year old. After some time we drove out.

10.45 am : Reached Tapovan ( good Ghats on the banks of Godavari, now poluted river ) Purchsed a book on Nashik Darshan, went up to inside a cave confronted a hot tempered Sadhu using abusive words if not getting Dakshina. We came back and saw Lakshaman temple depicting Suparnakha Nashika Badh here. I saw that this temple has a big and old banyan tree with its hanging roots so well curated to give shape of a natural gate.

Saw a number of gardens of guava neaby selling @Rs8 – 10 per Kg garden fresh & juicy.

11.30 am : Now we were back on NH 3 where I saw car gas filling stations. I was told that gas filled car average comes to 325 km in 15 kg cylinder @ Rs 29.56 / kg.

12.00 noon : Reached Kalaram Temple having black stone Rama Idol which is more than 200 yrs old. State Police security was evident perhaps due to 32 kg gold Kalash on its temple top. Here saw white small size Kheera being sold and Jungle Jalebi big trees.

12.15 pm : Now reached old Nashik City passing through lanes, bye lanes like Varanasi. Many hotels, Dharamshalas were there to cope up with the needs during Kumbha melas here after every 12 years. Here we saw Panchvati / Godavari Ghats like Har ki Paidi in Haridwar. After passing some time here, climbed steps to reach road where we saw SBI Panchvati Branch, posh locality of College Road. (here saw Aradhana’s KTHM College.)

01 pm to 02 pm : We were at Someshwar temple on the banks of Godavari, where river water falls into a lake like water body in which boating including scooter boating is done.

After lunch here, baby Karika enjoyed scooter boating driving alone fast on water with the help of its skilled driver who was managing the scooter boat engine behind her.

02 pm : From here, started for about 30 km long drive on SH 35 to Triambkeshwar. Saw on way, M&M premises.On both sides of this highway were Brahma Valley, full of green hills / rocks like erected walls, coloums. This was a very much enjoyable car drive on well maintained road with intermittent houses / restaurants etc, reaching Triambkeshwar temple (one of twelve Jyotirlingas in India). The security of this historical temple was manned by State Police and BSF personnels equipped with CCTV cameras. The entry to this temple was also regulated through a long queue. This temple lies in Sahyadri ranges from where Godavari River originates from a place called as Himgiri at about 3 km walk uphill.But the streams of Godavari are collected in a Kund at Kushawart, where Temple of Ganga Godavari is situated. Pilgrims take holi dip in this Kund before Godavari Puja.

04.30 pm : Met Mr Sursh, BM SBI Triambkeshar branch and over a cup of tea, shared my visit to Lakshadweep and also how to reach there by ship most economically.

04.45 pm : Return journey on the same enjoyable 30 km long green valley drive.

05.15 pm : Now we were on Ambad Industrial Area of Nashik. Here we saw a number of Industries like that of Kirloskar, Siemens, Crompton Greaves, Garware Polyster etc and finally reaching on a hill top having most modern “Dada Saheb Falke Memorial” hall in the surroundings of well maintained park.. Here a Stupa like Gautam Budha’s large golden statue lies in complete silence under a large elyptical high hall which produces instant echo for the slightest sounds like even the lip sounds also. Entire Nashik City buildings can be seen from here. From this high hall site (with gardens, carpet like lawns) were stepped hilly road to Pandava’s Gupha (Pandav Leni) at 4000 ft height.

06 pm : Drove down from this hilly place on to a busy road reaching commercial eshtablishments / shops. Saw here a a very busy 5-6 roads crossing called Mumbai Naka on NH 3 which lead us back to HAL township with glittering lights around this residential colony. Phone from Aradhana when we were just near Samarth Nagar itself.She had her exams well except one part of the question paper.

07 pm : On reaching home, after we had tea etc, Karika and I walked up to Bhaji Market where to boost her confidence at my insistance she independently purchased milk packets and also paid and got back balance cash,. While walking back I taught her multiplication tables which she learnt quickly. Back home we sat for some time on her Lenovo Laptop and saw how conversant she had become with the computers and so fast.

09 pm : We had dinner and while I went to bed by 9.30 pm, others were awake with Aradhana preparing for her next day B Ed Exams.

19.10.2007(Friday) Travel to Shirdi to& fro by car with Son in law Peeyush Mishra

05.30 am : Got up and had a very taste ful tea. Today being Durga Astami, Kaika was much in demand for Kanya Pujan by neighbouring women folk. On coming back she talked about her neighbouring houses children, Krishna ( good & polite ), Sachin ( good but naughty ), Sonal ( bad thin girl always getting C+ B+ in school ), Guddu ( very bad boy ), Shikha didi / aunty ( never talking , her baby gone to hostel ), Tapasya ( greedy ).

08.00 am : After break fast tea etc, we were waiting for the car to arrive.

08.35 am : We left by car and within 5 minutes, it was on NH 3. By 9 am we reached Nashik Road and then on Savarkar Fly over. Car was now on a two lane Pune road.

09.30 am : Ghat road started overseeing a lake like water body and on reaching its higher point, it was H P Gas Plant / gas pipe lines to Nashik.

09.50 am : Now left turn on Shirdi Road ( single lane SH 39 ) for Shirdi at about 59 km.

10.50 am : SH 39 meets SH 7 (Malegaon – Pune Road). Shirdi Helipad 1.5km from here. Saw one water park, many hotels, restaurants, buses, cars, autorikshawa, shops, vendors, hawkers, Phool Prasad wale and crowds of devotees from many parts of the country.

11 am : Parked the car and walked into Shri Sai Baba Samadhi Sthal. Peeyush went for getting special passes for entry cutting short the long queue. It was told that since there was no much rush, there is no need for VIP passes. As such with Nariyal Mala for Rs 70 we all walked barefooted upto the starting entry point. Here we saw Railway reservation, Rail tickets booking counters, Touch screen machine functioning there. A large board for Rail time tables was also installed there.

I had first bad experience here when the guide given by Phool Prasad wala, just vanished in the crowd. Second bad experience was that of standing in long queue, though other devotees were happy with such crowds of men, women and children in queue standing with bigger than thou thals of offerings / gifts / phools / Prasad etc unmindful of some of their restless & wailing small kids whose curiosity had died down in the long queues / crowd and had nothing to do with such offerings / blind faith. It may be noted that Sai himself was a faqir and had abjured all such offerings in his life time and in his preachings to visitors / devotees. However, outdoing the two bad experiences, one very happy experience was to see the unique and innovative excellent way of well regulated queue / crowd management system by providing sitting facilities on a number of shining steel benches of hollow rods kept in rows alternatively one at right side followed by the other on left side in the comfortabely sufficient spaces of barricaded long queues within Hall No.1 where facilities of drinking water, toilet, CCTV and live TV show terminals showing Sai Darshan to queued devotees

.

12 noon : Inching slowly forward in serpentine queue, it took one hour to pass Hall No.1 just to find similar queue in Hall No.2, where tea/ coffee/ cold drinks/ ice cream/biscuits/ other snacks were available on payment to waiting devotees. There were air coolers as if these were ACs, fans, lights, public address system and also the live TV show terminals showing Sai Darshan to queued devotees. Every 10 minutes, the queue used to move ahead and then stop to wait stand still sitting on benches, chanting Om sai Namo Namah.

01.00 pm : Some Andhra Pradesh Sai devotees and frequent visitors, told that we have to pass through still two more number of such Halls taking at least one hour in each Hall It may take at least 2 hours more to reach for the final Darshan of Sai. This also disturbed me so much that I decided to fall out of my queue and see other things in this premises. Peeyush and Karika also followed me. Then we saw other equally good temples of Shiva and Ganesh, where we offered our Nariyal, Mala, and Prasad etc. Chanced to see and use SBI ATM here at “Shirdi”. While walking at this place, chanced to see that we were at the exit outer gate used by devotees for coming out after Sai Darshan for which we would have waited another two hours or more. I took the lead to enter from this exit gate and we three had close view of Sai Darshan so easily, again by chance only.

After such a Sai Darshan, we walked further to see Dwarka Mai (Masjid) and then Chawdi (Mandir) in the same premises. It was written here that every alternate day, Baba used to visit from Dwarka Mai to Chawdi at night to sleep. Saw the Chulha where Baba used to cook food for him.

01.10 pm : Collected Prasad and we came out by the side of gate No. 4 and reached our car parked on the main road parking premises.

01.30 pm : Sitting in car, we ate our lunch of Parathas, Sabji, Achar, Namkeen etc.

02.00 pm : After paying Rs 20 as car parking charges, we started our return journey and after some time I bought 1 kg of guavas for Rs10 at a road crossing from where Nashik was 85 Km. Before reaching Nashik Road, we saw Darana river, a tributary of Godavari.

04.00 pm : Visited Rinki’s flat, met her husband Abhishek and their 1 year old son Aman followed by tea- snacks. After being with them for about 1 hour, we drove back to Ojhar.

06.00 pm : Reached Ojhar flat and after tea snacks once again,Peeyush,Karika and I went up to Gate No.2 of HAL Township and saw on the sides of NH 3, there was a big market selling quite reasonabley lesser priced fresh vegetables and fruits in abundance

08.00 pm : Phones from my younger daughter Archana Sharma,son in law Mudit Sharma, his elder brother Mohit and their mother.Phone to younger son Dr Anupam Ojha.

09.00 pm : As usual, we had dinner and I went to bed by 9.30 pm.

20.10.2007(Saturday) Durga Puja Day in HAL Township

06.00 am : Had tea with Aradhana and Peeyush while Karika was fast asleep.

07.00 am : Today being Navami. Karika was again much in demand for Kanya Pujan by neighbouring devotees / families. We also had Prasad brought by her not in less quatity.

08.30 am to 09.45 am : With me, Peeyush drove his scooter on inner roads / parks of this HAL Township big enough to cover it fully by walk alone.

Saw Children Park, Library – Yoga Centre, Museum, Inter College, Science & Commerce College, Boys School, Marathi medium School, small Hospital run by HAL, Rakshanagar, HAL Officre’s club, Stadium, Shopping complexes,ATMs & Banks like ICICI, SBI, PNB, BOM. There was quite a big Post Office and a big Police Station also Saw MIG Guest house ( entry through Gate No.3 on NH No.3 side ), One a cinema hall (KINO) now used for organizing stage shows, a big Community Centre called HAL hall where Durga Puja was being celebrated ( Orchestra show 8 pm onwards that day on 20.10.07 ), Ambedkar Udyan, Nehru Udyan gardens with flowers, well equipped big play ground for children, in addition to many other trees every where in campus. Went inside a Nursery of flowers, herbal & other plants, just opposite Civil maintenance Office where a well organized system was in place to attend to the civil works complaints At almost all strategic points on road crossings, there were location maps of total 4579 flats in HAL township with all sorts of facities incuding different temples for residents. Saw temples of Sant Gajanan Maharaj ( built on 01.11.2004 ), Ganesh ( 01.04.1995 ), Radha Krishna ( 03.01.2004 ), Ram ( 06.08.2004 ), Hanuman ( 06.08.2000 ), Navgrah & Ayappa ( 24.02.2002 ), Shri Venkteshwar Swamy Balaji temples ( work in progress ) For the first time I saw here a thick Cotton wick ( Deepak ) lighted in half cut coconut shell with its fresh kernel ( oil oozing with the heat of the burning Deepak ). In Ayappa temple, Saraswathi Puja for Vidyarambh ceremony was notified to be held on 21.10.2007 from 7.30 am to 9.30 am About 2000 Air Force (BRD) personnels ( for MIG fighter planes ) were reportedy working smultaneously with HAL personnels at Ojhar (MIG), Nashik. HAL is now one of the Navratna Cotporate bodies in India where employees work in two shifts from 7 am to 11 pm. Whereas Air Force personnels have to report for duty at 6.50 am till 02.30 pm only.

10 am : Aradhana left for last day of her current B Ed Exams, today.

11.30 am to 1.30 pm : Walked up to SBI Ojhar Branch and met Branch Manager Mr N D Pisholkar, who shared that though a Marathi, he preferred to interact in Hindi He said in Hindi “Main Bhartiya hoon aur Hindi aani hi chahiye. Main Maharashtriyan hoon aur utni hi Marathi bhee aani chahiye” He recognized me as his collegue in I & A Deptt as Manager (Inspection). Also saw there in a Photograph that my collegue at Allahabad Mrs Uttara Dasgupta was now DGM Pune Zonal Office, the Controllers for Ojhar, Nashik

With over Rs300 crores business and Rs52 crores profit, this Branch had earned many laurels so far. Did funds transfer from my Pension SB a/c at Tel Bhavan branch Rs 95000 in TDR and Rs 5000 in Defence salary SB a/c of Sgt Peeyush Mishra.

07 pm to 09 pm : This evening drove into Air Force Station campus domestic area and saw various residential establishments / facilities. Today being Durga Puja, this evening witnessed cultural programmes performed by AF family children where all were seen in colourful festive mood. This campus was well electrified and we moved around ICICI & SBI offsite ATMs, CSD, AFWA stores, Community Hall, SNCOs mess, shops, restaurent residential flats, children parks, AF School and civilian temples near AFS gates.

09.30 pm : Back to our flat, we had dinner and I went to bed by 10.45 pm after a walk at the instance of Aradhana. I learnt that in Nashik, there are more than one residential colony in the similar names of Shivaji Nagar / Samarth Nagar.

21.10.2007(Sunday) Dussehra Day in HAL Township

06.00 am : After tea and fresh up, bath etc, walked up to Ayappa temple to see Saraswati Pujan from 8 to 9 am.Phone to Mohit and his mother congratulating them for grand son Akshat’s mundan and their new flat’s Grih Pravesh ceremonies in Banglore.

Back home during my own break fast of sprouted grams, continued reading News Paper and later, Aradhana’s book on Fundamentals of Experimental Psychology ( NDMVP Samaj Library College of Education, Nashik ) followed by formal Nasta of Parathas etc due to which my tummy was over loaded with so eaten food.

Nashik Times 20.10.2007 wrote thus …. At a very beautiful location in golden triangle Mumbai – Pune – Nashik, shedding off its sleezy look long back, Nashik City has picked up ( not yet peaked up ) pace to join the band wagon of few of the dazzling cities across the country. No wonder, the market here has matured in terms of choice, quality and delivery and will be dazzling this Dussehra on 21.10.2007 The presence of HAL / AF Station at Ojhar ( MIG ), this sub urb has an All India presence giving it a Metropolicity grandeurs / culture / languages / beliefs / worshiping places – way / eatables / readings etc

10.45 to 11.30 am : Peeyush took me to his batch mate Sgt Man Mohan Nayak(of Orissa) living in his flat up stairs on first floor with his wife Mausami ( Lizza ) and their two sons Chirag ( Guddu ), Nishith. We talked about two batch mates training days in Electronics trade at Banglore.Maushami talked about her Orissa days and marrying her Man Mohan.

11.45 am to 01.00 pm : Visited HAL Aerospace Museum ( entry fee Rs12 for 2.30 hrs ) for Air Craft Division Ojhar (MIG) Nashik. Learnt that HAL is also eshtablished at Hyderabad, Koraput, Kanpur, Korwa, Lucknow with its Corporate Centre is at Banglore.

Met two young college students doing part time job here Mr Amod Jadhav ( final year degree course in Commercial Applied art ) and Miss Harshada ( final year diploma course in Electronics & Telecommunication ). They explained the Aerospace Museum in detail and also showed me a Honey Comb structure used as wings of Air Crafts.

02.00 to 03.00 pm : Joined at lunch at SNCO mess in family dining hall with Sgt Peeyush and baby Karika. I shared with Peeyush that I may go to meet my nephew Vinay Ojha at Hotel Duke Retreat, Khandala on Mumbai - Pune Expressway (Lonavala Stn 5 Km away)

07.30 to 08.30 pm : Went to see Dussehra celebrations in near by Ojhar Town a quite big market. Saw Ojha Textiles, Ojha Computers and met its owners Ojha property dealers. Heard high pitch drum beats competing amongst 3-4 band parties with their tableuxes.

22.10.2007(Monday) Travel by Volvo AC bus from Dadar to Pune on Expressway

04.30 am : We got up and after tea etc, hurried to catch morning bus from this township to Nashik Road Rly stn but finally went by Maruti Van (Rs20) to board 2110 Super Fast Panchavati Express (Manmad - CST Mumbai)

07.00 am : This train from Nashik Road Stn to Dadar (fare Rs 47 for Sr Citizen) was late by 10 minutes. It was jam packed here by daily commuters also entering from the rail track side what to talk of from plate form side. Somehow I also pushed myself in and travelled choked in the crowd till Kalyan, Thane, Mullund

10.30 am : Reached Dadar and got down here. I looked for coffee but found unusual price list at IRCTC snacks stall (tea Rs 5 and coffee Rs 7) on Rly Plate form as against in train, tea Rs 4 and coffee Rs5. After staying there for some time, walked out from Rly Stn up to nearby Bus Stand for Mumbai – Pune Expressway and waited for buses to arrive.

11.30 am : Boarded one Volvo AC bus No.MH 04 G 3933 paid fare Rs150 from Dadar to Pune. Bus started at slow pace till we reached Chembur by 12 noon. So far in Mumbai, there was no Airtel connectivity but the signal started coming from outer Mumbai.

After Chembur, we were on Mumbai – Pune Expressway, crossing a sea creak under the over bridge and then there was first Toll Plaza. All vehicles were required to pay the Toll.

12.30 pm : Vasi ( Navi Mumbai ) Four Lane Expressway is distinctly visible now but no greenery except few on the road dividers. As per road indicators, this is Goa Expressway also on which, we saw our bus crossing many fly overs, green valleys and many tunnels.

01.30 pm : Now this Four Lane Expressway was passing through a very vast valley and our Volvo bus was running at full speed . With the curtains between space for bus crew and passengers enjoying push back seats, AC & TV on, I felt like sitting in Aeroplane giving a theatrical ambience.Phone to Dr Anupam. Passing through a number of tunnels, toll plazas, we reached Khopli where a big magnificent Hindustan Petroleum Service Station was spread over well maintained restaurants, one of which was Nishi Sagar. Facilities provided by HPCL included sparkling modern wash rooms (No tips please !).

02.00 pm : After some time, bus was on Ghat roads, running non stop through tunnels and flyovers reaching the top of Lonavala hills ( Pune 61 Km ) and spread around was Khandala hill station full of mushrooming resorts, beautiful farm houses mostly of big businessmen / film stars .At many strategic places, the road was only for local use, hinderance free.Travelling on this Expressway was memorable and an achievement.

02.30 pm : Now we were in open valley at the top of Lonavala hills where I saw the raiway tracks criss crossing the road. Crops were also seen growing / harvested here.

03.00 pm : After passing through another tunnel, this 4 lane Expressway is converted in to two lane smaller road running up to Pune.

03.30 pm : I got down at Shivajinager bus stand in Pune to change for Nashk bound buses

Travel by bus from Pune to Nashik on Expressway

04.00 pm : Boarded a Karnataka State Express bus going to Nashik (200 km fare Rs137) passing through Khadki, the bus runs on NH 50 (Mumbai Road), saw College of Military Engineering (CME) Pune. Bus reached a place called Bhosri Crossing ( Nashik 193 km ), where I saw a number of FOBs ( Fly Over Bridges ) for crossing this Expressway, PUCs (Pollution checking Utility Cars), Toll Plazas ( Toll collection by ATRIL ( developers of this Pune – Nashik expressway) Saw a number of Industries, Hotels, Restaurents, Market & Schools,Housing Complexes, lined up on both sides of this Road reaching Chakan Jn and then Rajgurunagar where from ATRIL road ends at its last Toll Plaza.

05.15 pm : Phone from Aradhana. Now the bus is running on a two lane NH 50. Reached an open valley road, forest ( Junnar forest range ) beautiful hill road.

05.35 pm : Reached Manchar and saw SBI branch building here.

05.55 pm : Bus halted at Narayangaon bus station.

07.00 pm : Bus stopped for 20 minutes at Piladi ( a new Rajasthani good hotel for coffee, tea, cold drinks, snacks, meals and other utilities.

08.00 pm : Bus reached Sangamner town where Shirdi Road meets this Pune Road NH

08.45 pm : Reached Sinner Town where I saw a big Sugar factory and an Engg College.

09.30 pm : Bus reached Nashik Road fly over / Railway Station bus stop

09.45 pm : Finally reached Nashik city Central Bus Station ( CBS ).Walked up to near by new CBS for changing bus going to Ojhar (MIG) / HAL Township. Boarded this bus at 10 pm and reaching HAL township Bhaji market bus stand by 10.45 pm. I was told that buses to & from Ojhar / HAL Township are available half hourly from 5 am to 11 pm

11.00 pm : After reaching home and taking light dinner, went to bed.

23.10.2007(Tuesday) Travel by Punjab Mail train from Nashik to New Delhi

05.00 am : During morning tea, I shared about my experience of travelling on famous and worth seeing Mumbai Pune Expressway and then Pune Nashik NH 50.

08.30 am : Had break fast of Saboodana Khichdi as first course and by 09.30 am another break fast of Parathas, Sabji and Chatni followed by tea. Read News paper up to 11 am Took bath at about 12 noon followed by lunch by 2 pm, tea at 4 pm, dinner at 9 pm

09.30 pm : Bidding good bye, left HAL township by bus for Nashik Road railway Station

11.30 pm : Boarded Punjab Mail train for New Delhi and slept on my 3 AC lower berth.

24.10.2007(Wednesday) Travel by AC Special train from New Delhi to Dehradun

06.00 am : Requested Pantry boys and got special tea without sugar.

07.30 am : Train reached right time at Itarasi Junction Phone to Peeyush, Aradhana

10.00 am : Train left Bhopal Station right time but it was held up between Vidisha and Beena stations so much so that by 01.15 pm, it was late by more than one hour

01.15 pm : While the train was held up between 12.35 to 01.15 pm, walked in to 1 AC cabins in trying to locate workable mobile charging facility, I met a quite boyish looking

young man Manas Muthe ( 27 years old ) who shared that after his BA from Nashik, he ventured into whole sale trading business along with his father ( retired from Nashik job ) with initial investmet of Rs 15000,. Now, Manas was a single handed owner of M S Group & Marketing ( HQ in Mumbai ) having status of Super Stockist in Maharashtra, dealing in Mathura based Gopalji Sweets and other products like Phataphat Kurkure Namkeen. His annual turn over was over Rs 24 lakks. This business being run by about a dozen workers, he manages all this from Manas Kiran Flat No.2 in Rajiv Nagar Nashik. He also owns a plot of land in Hindustan Nagar near CAC (Carreer And Competition ) behind HAL township Ojhar (MIG ), Nashik.

01.30 pm : The train now arrived Beena Junction and departed after 10 minutes slowly.

04.30 pm : Again there was an unscheduled stop at Datia station. Thus it reached Dabra at 05.05 pm and Gwalior at 06.00 pm Just before Gwalior, while sharing coffee with Manas in his 1 AC cabin, met Col Vinod also a 1 AC co- passenger who was on way to Ladakh for imparting Air Craft training to Army personnels there. Originally a Himachali but now settled in Delhi, Colonel had expeience of Dehradun, Deolali, Nashik etc.Due to late running of this Punjab mail, now he was also trying to find some other connecting train to Jammu. Phone to Dr Anupam and Sgt Peeyush that I may also miss AC special train from Delhi to Dehradun as it was already 8 pm when this train departed from Agra slowly and reaching Faridabad by 10.45 pm. Then cameTughlakabad followed by Okhla. Every minute was important to decide my fate of getting 23.15 hrs DDun AC Spl train.

11.11 pm : Punjab Mail reached H Nijamuddin and stopped at P F No.4, I almost ran up

11.14 pm : to catch my next train DehraDun AC Special then about to start on P F No 2

11.15 pm : Within minute of my jumping into, this train started moving from Plate Form. Phone to Peeyush, Aradhana that I had miraculously got this train to Dehradun.

25.10.2007(Thursday)

05.10 am : Woke up and saw that just before Dehradun, this AC Special train was standing at Harrawala a very small station.

05.45 am : When I got down at Dehradun Station, I learnt that this train was right time due to change in train timings.

06.00 am : Reached Dehradun railway station, Dr Anupam had arrived by car to receive me and drive to home in Chaman Vihar.